Climbing Passport

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Central Caucasus, Dykh-Su valley.
3. Peak Aylama via the center of the North face.
4. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1475 m, route length — 2333 m. Average steepness of main sections — 53°. Including 6th category sections up to 95° — 27 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 5 bolt hangers — 3

Fig. 6.

Fig. 4.

Passport

1. Ice and snow ascent class.
2. Central Caucasus, Southern lateral spur of the Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak Tetnuld, center of the North face.
4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain 1780 m, length 2190 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty is 1768 m. Average steepness of main sections is 55° (R1–R2, R4–R14), including 6 category of difficulty 85–110° for 130 m (R12–R14).
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock: 1
   • ice: 232

Archimedes Peak via the northern ice gully, Category III, Winter Climbing.

From the Ukyu-kosh hut, follow the terminal moraine trail to the KSP "dovecote" shelter - 3/4 to 1 hour. The ice gully is a hanging glacier tongue descending from the 3rd ridge plateau, bounded on both sides by rocky buttresses. Over a 200m stretch, the glacier's slope is 40-45°, with the lower 40m being nearly vertical and, in places, overhanging. From the "dovecote", cross the glacial stream and ascend the icy slope with rocks and snow debris to the glacier's terminus. When ascending the tongue, stick to the safer middle section and only shift towards the left buttress rocks when reaching the gentler upper part. From the route's start - 5-8 hours. Further ascent along the ridge to the 3rd and highest peaks, and descent - as per description 1. Hazardous sections: the entire lower part of the route is prone to rockfall from both sides. It's advisable to start the route as early as possible; avoid starting after a warm night or in low visibility. Special equipment:

• Ice screws - 8-15 pcs.
• Ice hammers (ice fifis)
• Crampons - for all participants

Descending from the North ridge of peak Brno. After narrowing of the couloir - transition to its right side and up. From the place of couloir bifurcation - ascent via its right branch, then to the right and via easy rocks to the Central counterfort. From the trail - 2–3 hours. Via medium difficulty rocks (in rope teams!) on the left side of the counterfort:

• 200 m upwards,
• then transition to its right side,
• via a snowslope ascent towards the wall of the North ridge. From the couloir - 2–3 hours. Via steep medium difficulty rocks:
• 45–50 m straight up,

ASCENT TO V. KYUNDU̇M-MIZHIRGI VIA THE 3RD RIDGE, CAT. 3B DIFFICULTY Route Description From the "3900" campsite, head towards the Kyundu̇m-Mizhirgi pass. Traverse the icefall at the base of the upper plateau to the left, keeping close to the rocks of the V. Ullu-Auz ridge. Upon reaching the upper plateau, turn right under the snow-ice slope that leads to the shoulder of the 3rd ridge of V. Kyundu̇m-Mizhirgi. Overcome the bergschrund and ascend 200 m up the slope to the ridge shoulder. Pure ice is possible! Crampons, pitons! From the shoulder, traverse the rocky ridge to the right via simple rocks and ascend upwards to the base of the counterfort wall. From here, ascend upwards to the left via a 8–10 m cleft (70–80°) to the base of a couloir with ice and snow. Ascend 50–60 m (45°) up the left side of the couloir to a rocky ridge connector. Traverse 40 m to the left along the ridge via несложным скалам and then descend 3 m into a pass. From the pass, ascend 50 m (35–40°) up a slab (pitons!) to a ledge, then ascend 10 m to the left, from where you can traverse to the right side of the ridge. Move along the right side of the ridge via ledges (80–100 m) to an ice-snow couloir, which leads to a ridge connector (100–120 m) below the summit ascent. Continue by ascending 20 m up a slab, 20–25 m to the left via a cleft, and then upwards to the right to the pre-summit ridge (pitons!). The further route to the summit follows the ridge (200 m). The ascent to the summit from the "3900" campsite takes around 7 hours in good weather.

1. Climbing class: technical
2. Region: Central Caucasus
3. Summit: p. Semenovskogo 4050 m, from the northeast
4. Difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics: ice elevation gain — 700 m, average route steepness — 45 °
6. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating artificial holds | | rock | ice | | :---------- | :--- | :--- |

Ullu-Auz from Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass.

The summit of Ullu-Auz-Bashi (4679 m) is located in a branch of the lateral ridge, separating the basins of Dumala and Mizhyrgi rivers. The ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi from Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass is classified as 3A category of difficulty.

Day 1.

From the "Bezengi" road, the path goes along the left-bank moraine of the Mizhyrgi glacier until the trail disappears and the moraine descends to the level of the glacier (about an hour and a half of walking), then you need to reach the glacier and ascend along its middle to the first step of the Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall. The first step is passed on the right side along the gentlest ice slope. You should not approach the slopes of Mizhyrgi due to possible snow avalanches, and after passing the first step, you need to quickly move up to the left to the left edge of the second step of the icefall. The lower part of the second step of the icefall is bypassed (on the left) along the talus (50–60 m), then the path goes to the right and leads to the ice above the steep ice slope. Here, crampons are usually put on. Further, the path goes:

• straight up the icefall,
• about 20–50 m from its left edge. Numerous crevices are filled with serac debris and are passed without difficulty. The most difficult section of the second step is located in its upper part, where it may be necessary to:

Ural V. via S. wall, 4А

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the KSP “golubyatnya” shelter, here exit onto the Ukyu glacier, on it, keeping to the right side, ascend (200 m short of) to the Ukyu pass, 2 hours (Fig. 1). From the glacier, right and up 150 m along the snowy slope to the bergschrund. Then move up along the ice ridge going left of all the rocky islands under the saddle between the peaks of M. and V. Ural. The ridge abuts against the rocky tower of M. Ural, here right — under the tower's rocks — exit to the saddle. From the start of the route 3–4 hours. From the saddle up the wide chimney with protection via rock pitons 25 m to the plug, exit from the chimney right and up the wall 10 m to a ledge with a good protrusion (rappel loop). From the ledge:

• left and up 20 m to a rocky outcrop (protrusion 3–4 m);
• then along the rocks (possible snow, ice) 35–40 m to the E. ridge (second loop). From here:
• along the inner corner 20 m to the summit.