Descending from the North ridge of peak Brno. After narrowing of the couloir - transition to its right side and up. From the place of couloir bifurcation - ascent via its right branch, then to the right and via easy rocks to the Central counterfort. From the trail - 2–3 hours.

Via medium difficulty rocks (in rope teams!) on the left side of the counterfort:

• 200 m upwards,
• then transition to its right side,
• via a snowslope ascent towards the wall of the North ridge.

From the couloir - 2–3 hours.

Via steep medium difficulty rocks:

• 45–50 m straight up,
• via an inclined ledge 50–60 m left-upwards (pitons protection!)
• from it 15 m up a vertical chimney of the wall (pitons protection!) to a platform.

Further:

• upwards via ledges, alternating with small walls
• ascent to the ice slope.

From here via steep medium difficulty rocks with ice and snow sections (pitons protection!) - ascent to the North ridge of peak Brno. From the counterfort - 5–6 hours.

Via medium difficulty rocks of the North ridge, passing small pinnacles head-on or bypassing them from the left or right - ascent to the North summit of peak Brno. From "Bezengi" base camp - 12–13 hours.

From the summit:

• down to the saddle below the wall of the South summit of peak Brno,
• from it to the left and down to the southeast via scree-filled couloirs to the Mijirgi glade.

Further via the trail - return to "Bezengi" base camp.

Recommendations for climbers:

1. Number of participants - 4–5 people.
2. Initial bivouac - "Bezengi" base camp.
3. Departure time - 3–4 am.
4. Equipment: main rope - 2×30 m; cordelette - 2 m; rock pitons - 5–6; ice screws - 2; rock hammer - 1; carabiners - 10–12; tent - 1.
5. Bivouac locations - on the counterfort below the wall, above the wall on the North summit.