ASCENT TO V. KYUNDU̇M-MIZHIRGI VIA THE 3RD RIDGE, CAT. 3B DIFFICULTY Route Description From the "3900" campsite, head towards the Kyundu̇m-Mizhirgi pass. Traverse the icefall at the base of the upper plateau to the left, keeping close to the rocks of the V. Ullu-Auz ridge. Upon reaching the upper plateau, turn right under the snow-ice slope that leads to the shoulder of the 3rd ridge of V. Kyundu̇m-Mizhirgi. Overcome the bergschrund and ascend 200 m up the slope to the ridge shoulder. Pure ice is possible! Crampons, pitons! From the shoulder, traverse the rocky ridge to the right via simple rocks and ascend upwards to the base of the counterfort wall. From here, ascend upwards to the left via a 8–10 m cleft (70–80°) to the base of a couloir with ice and snow. Ascend 50–60 m (45°) up the left side of the couloir to a rocky ridge connector. Traverse 40 m to the left along the ridge via несложным скалам and then descend 3 m into a pass. From the pass, ascend 50 m (35–40°) up a slab (pitons!) to a ledge, then ascend 10 m to the left, from where you can traverse to the right side of the ridge. Move along the right side of the ridge via ledges (80–100 m) to an ice-snow couloir, which leads to a ridge connector (100–120 m) below the summit ascent. Continue by ascending 20 m up a slab, 20–25 m to the left via a cleft, and then upwards to the right to the pre-summit ridge (pitons!). The further route to the summit follows the ridge (200 m). The ascent to the summit from the "3900" campsite takes around 7 hours in good weather. The descent from the summit via the northern ridge is hazardous due to possible ice sections hidden by snow! The descent follows a snow-ice ridge with individual rock outcrops. Depending on conditions, sports rappels may be required on some sections. Descend 300–350 m down the ridge to a flattening that forms a ridge connector. Follow the gentle section to a second couloir that descends to the left. (A complex wall of a gendarme that marks the end of the connector can serve as a landmark). From under the gendarme, descend 80 m down the couloir to the left (pitons!), then upwards to the right (pitons) to a connector in the western counterfort, through which you can traverse to its northern side (going down can lead to steep "бараньи лбы"). Two couloirs diverge from the connector - descend via the right one. Upon reaching a relatively gentle snow slope, traverse 200–250 m to the right in the direction of the Kyundu̇m-Mizhirgi pass to a gentle ascent to L. Kyundu̇m-Mizhirgi near the start of the ascent to the pass. Descent time is around 4 hours.

Necessary equipment for a group of 4:

1. Ice pitons 3 pcs.
2. Rock pitons 5–7 pcs.