Ural V. via S. wall, 4А

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the KSP “golubyatnya” shelter, here exit onto the Ukyu glacier, on it, keeping to the right side, ascend (200 m short of) to the Ukyu pass, 2 hours (Fig. 1).

From the glacier, right and up 150 m along the snowy slope to the bergschrund. Then move up along the ice ridge going left of all the rocky islands under the saddle between the peaks of M. and V. Ural. The ridge abuts against the rocky tower of M. Ural, here right — under the tower's rocks — exit to the saddle. From the start of the route 3–4 hours.

From the saddle up the wide chimney with protection via rock pitons 25 m to the plug, exit from the chimney right and up the wall 10 m to a ledge with a good protrusion (rappel loop).

From the ledge:

• left and up 20 m to a rocky outcrop (protrusion 3–4 m);
• then along the rocks (possible snow, ice) 35–40 m to the E. ridge (second loop).

From here:

• along the inner corner 20 m to the summit.

From the exit to the ridge 2–3 hours.

Sporting descent along the ascent route to the ledge, then "rappel" 40 m to the saddle. Along simple rocks right of the ridge 80–90 m ascent to M. Ural and further — according to the previous description.

To the hut 3–4 hours. Hazardous areas: same as on the previous route. Special equipment: rock pitons 10–12 pcs., ice pitons 8–10 pcs., loops — 4 pcs., crampons — for all.