Peak Kankosheva via NW ridge - 4A

Route description. The route starts from the moraine fields below KOSHTAN Pass; a snow-ice slope with an angle of 30 to 40° on the right - a total of 3 pitches over 40 m leads to a gap in the ridge behind the final ascent of the ridge. Then, exit onto the ridge via moderately difficult rocks and then easy, broken rocks - 2 pitches. Belays via outcrops. Along the ridge, 2 pitches on rock and ice, to the right. The rocks are slab-like, moderately difficult. Exit to the first ascent is 0.5 pitches via slabs and ice (pitons). Steepness is 45°. The ascent is a 60° wall with cracks, climbed directly from the left - 1 pitch or bypassed on the right - 1.5 pitches on ice with piton belays on rock. Ice steepness is 40-45°. Exit up and left onto the ascent via steep slabs resembling "sheep's foreheads" - 0.5 pitches. No outcrops, few handholds. Overnight stay possible at the ascent. Total of 4 hours from the start of the route. Then, the ridge ascent continues - moderately difficult rocks with outcrops, steepness 40-45°, total of 2-2.5 pitches. Then, a 5 m triangular wall is bypassed on the right, belays via outcrops. Steep slabs are climbed via ledges and cracks (pitons). Then, the ridge becomes steeper with 2-4 m walls bypassed on the right and left via ledges and slabs covered in ice. Yellow blocks - pylons cross the ridge and are bypassed on the right via wall ledges in traverse with exit onto the ridge - 2.5-3 pitches. Total of 3 hours of climbing.

5. Height difference — 1800 m, average steepness — 42°, length of sections 6 — 40 m, steepness 80°. 5 — 570 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Ice screws | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | | :-----: | :------: | :-------: | :---------: | | 187 | 25 | 51 | 0 | | 0 | 0 | 2 | 0 |
7. Total travel time — 23 hours.
8. One bivouac on Katyn Plateau — on ice.
9. Leader: Sergey G. Bayanin Master of Sports of the USSR Team members:

Base camp “Bezengi” till the night stop on the Southern ridge of Utug spire - see description 18. From the night stop descend to the glacier above the third stage of the icefall and cross it to the right towards the Northern buttress of peak Tikhonov. Through the bergschrund, ascend a steep 100-meter snowy slope to the saddle of the Northern buttress of peak Tikhonov, left of the rocky spire Medved (Bear). On the saddle - a bivouac, from “Bezengi” base camp - 10–12 hours. From the bivouac:

• Bypass the rocks of the buttress on snow to the left.
• 300-meter ascent on the snowy Northern buttress of peak Tikhonov, not reaching 60–70 m to the black rocks.
• To the right, exit to a steep ice-snow slope below the Western wall of peak Tikhonov.
• Along it, 250–300-meter traverse (pitons! rockfall!) with a descent from it along the snowy ridge to the Krumkol collapse plateau. From the bivouac on the Northern buttress of peak Tikhonov - 4–5 hours. In the collapse:
• Bypass the spire by a 30-meter traverse to the left or right along simple icy rocks (protection!).

ASCENT DOCUMENT

ASCENT MADE IN THE 1971 USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi alpine camp.
3. Ascent route — peak KRUMKOL, 4550 m via North wall
4. Ascent description: traverse, 1678 height difference 1550 m (1184 zep) average slope 50°, (470–1000 р.) length of difficult sections 1000 m.
5. Number of pitons used: rock — 100, ice — 50, bolted — 0.
6. Number of climbing hours — 40.
7. Number of bivouacs: 4, lying down.
8. Team name — Bezengi alpine camp team.

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1982. ICE-SNOW ASCENTS CLASS.

Report

REPORT ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MIZHIRGI EAST, 4928 m, VIA THE CENTER OF THE NORTH FACE BY THE RS "AVANGARD" TEAM, TRUD SPORTS SOCIETY. Team Leader: V.I. Grishchenko. Team Coach: L.V. Kensitsky. RS "AVANGARD", TRUD Sports Society, Kiev, ul. Volodarskogo, 1. Tel. 74-40-22. Team Leader V.I. Grishchenko: 25205, Kiev, ul. Peschanaya, 28/32, apt. 46. Work Tel. 44-10-65, Home Tel. 71-08-74. Coach L.V. Kensitsky: Uzhgorod, ul. Shumnaya, 22/23. Tel. 90-51, ext. 3-53. The heights of the summit and the start of the route were determined using a map; the heights of the bivouac sites were determined visually and by the number of ropes climbed.

Profile of the wall from the left

Photo taken on August 16, 1981, at 11:00, using Industar-70 lens, distance to object 4.5 km, N 4, H 4500.

1. Climbing class: technical
2. Region: Central Caucasus
3. Summit: p. Semenovskogo 4050 m, from the northeast
4. Difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics: ice elevation gain — 700 m, average route steepness — 45 °
6. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating artificial holds | | rock | ice | | :---------- | :--- | :--- |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi
3. Peak — Shaurtu Glavnaya via the right edge of the South ridge wall
4. Difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference from Bezengi alpine camp is 2150 m average steepness 60° length of 4th difficulty sections — 30 m, 80 m, 90 m
6. Pitons hammered: 13 rock, 2 ice, 6 chocks

Physical Culture and Sports Committee under the USSR Council of Ministers

XXXVI USSR Alpine Championship 1985

Snow and Ice Ascent Category

Report

On the ascent of Shota Rustaveli peak, 4960 m, via the north face, category 5B difficulty, made by the team RSFSR – II.

Team's Tactical Actions

A day before departure, an observation of the route and a study of the lower part of the route were conducted. The tactic was built to safely and quickly pass the extended snow and ice route.

PASSPORT

Ascent to peak Kalper via the Northeast Edge.

1. Category of ascent: Combined
2. Area of ascent: Tsey, Kalper ridge
3. Summit: Kalper, 3800 m, route via Northeast Edge
4. Estimated category difficulty: 5A–4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference –1100 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty –250 m, average steepness – 45°
6. Pitons used: for belay – 23, for artificial holds – 8, including rock pitons – 29, ice screws – 2.
7. Duration: 20 hours
8. Number of bivouacs: 2, with available tent sites.

ASCENT CERTIFICATE

of the ascent made in the 1970 USSR Alpine Championship

1. Ascent class — technically challenging
2. Ascent area — Khalde - Bezengi
3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their elevations — Western Shkhara via the center of the southwest wall 5058 m.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain — 1500 m
   • average steepness:
     • lower section 60°
     • upper section 90°