Ullu-Auz from Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass.

The summit of Ullu-Auz-Bashi (4679 m) is located in a branch of the lateral ridge, separating the basins of Dumala and Mizhyrgi rivers. The ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi from Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass is classified as 3A category of difficulty.

Day 1.

From the "Bezengi" road, the path goes along the left-bank moraine of the Mizhyrgi glacier until the trail disappears and the moraine descends to the level of the glacier (about an hour and a half of walking), then you need to reach the glacier and ascend along its middle to the first step of the Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall.

The first step is passed on the right side along the gentlest ice slope. You should not approach the slopes of Mizhyrgi due to possible snow avalanches, and after passing the first step, you need to quickly move up to the left to the left edge of the second step of the icefall.

The lower part of the second step of the icefall is bypassed (on the left) along the talus (50–60 m), then the path goes to the right and leads to the ice above the steep ice slope. Here, crampons are usually put on.

Further, the path goes:

• straight up the icefall,
• about 20–50 m from its left edge.

Numerous crevices are filled with serac debris and are passed without difficulty. The most difficult section of the second step is located in its upper part, where it may be necessary to:

• cut steps,
• drive in ice screws (1–3).

It is possible to bypass the difficult sections somewhat to the right, but you should not go beyond the middle of the icefall due to possible avalanches from the slopes of Tikhonov Peak.

Above the second step of the icefall, you need to reach a gentle talus (on the left) from the glacier and ascend to its ridge above the third step of the icefall. Along the ridge of the talus, a trail leads up to the left to the overnight stay, located near the rocks closing the ridge. There is water above the rocks on the glacier under the snow.

The journey from the camp to the overnight stay takes 8–10 hours.

Day 2.

You can start earlier, as on this day you need to ascend to Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass, reach the summit, and return to the overnight stay, and if conditions are favorable, descend to the camp.

Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass is not visible from the overnight stay. From the talus ridge, you need to descend 15 m into the cirque of the icefall, bounded on the left by the slopes of Ullu-Auz. The cirque is crossed in the direction of the glacier flowing from under Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass. On the right, this glacier is bounded by a ridge descending from the peak (4500 m) in the ridge of Ullu-Auz — Koshtan-Tau, on the left — by one of the spurs of Ullu-Auz.

Characteristics of the glacier:

• Steepness in the middle part — up to 30°
• The glacier is covered with snow
• Few crevices

Gradually turning left, you reach the cirque of the glacier. Ahead is the saddle of Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass. This is the left of the two noticeable depressions in the ridge. The ridge of Ullu-Auz, going to the left from the saddle, is not the ascent route. The ascent route becomes visible only after reaching the saddle.

From the overnight stay to the pass — 2–2.5 hours of walking.

A small glacier leads to the saddle:

• Length — 100–150 m
• Steepness — 30–45%
• Usually covered with snow

Beyond the pass is a wide snow-covered horizontal ledge. If necessary, several tents can be set up here.

From the pass:

• Go to the left for about 50 meters without gaining height
• Then start the ascent to reach the ridge of Ullu-Auz

Stages of the ascent:

• Initially — along a snow-covered slope, in some places along easy rocks

• Then — along a rocky couloir

  • In some places, the couloir is snow-covered
  • Small sections of ice are encountered

• Before reaching the ridge — overcoming a rocky pillar (15 m) head-on

  • Rocks are strong
  • Many handholds

After reaching the ridge:

• Movement continues along the ridge or slightly to the right of it
• Along snow or rocky ledges
• There may be ice under the snow, so it's a good idea to take a pair of crampons per group

Before the summit — a depression in the ridge. The ridge is an acute snow ridge. The pre-summit rocks are easy. The ascent from the ridge to the summit takes half an hour.

Total time:

• From Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass to the summit — 2.5–3 hours
• Descent — the same, along the ascent route
• From the pass to the overnight stay — about 1 hour of walking

Recommendation: without special need, you should not continue descending to the camp, as passing the Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall in the second half of the day is more difficult and dangerous.

Day 3.

Return to the camp.