Ascent Passport

Ascent Category — Rock Climbing

ASCENT AREA — CENTRAL CAUCASUS, PRIELBRUSIE, MONGOLIAN PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC PEAK NORTH-EAST via the South Ridge. Estimated category: 3B. Route characteristics: height difference — 530 m, average steepness — 45°, section lengths: I — 70 m, II — 150 m, III — 440 m, IV — 60 m. Pitons hammered on the route: for belay, for creating intermediate belay points: rock — 17, ice — , bolted — . Travel time — 8 hours. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: none. Names and patronyms of the leader and participants: OSIPOV OLEG FYODOROVICH — CMS, leader; SALAZKO MIKHAIL NIKOLAEVICH — 1st category, participant; LAVROV NIKOLAI VLADIMIROVICH — 2nd category, observer; SNEZHKO YURIY VASIL'EVICH — 3rd category, observer. Team coach: Head of the training department at Adyl-su tourist center, senior instructor, Master of Sports of the USSR KUSSEL-MOROZ N.A. The ascent was made on August 14, 1978.

Central Council of DSO "Avangard"

To the blessed memory of Ukrainian climbers Artur Glukhontsev and Vitaly Timokhin we dedicate

Ascent to South Ushba via the Central part of the West wall

(report on the ascent) V. Monogarov Kiev—1965 The route via the Central part of the West wall of South Ushba, traversed by the combined team of CS DSO "Avangard" in July 1965.

Protocol

of the ascent to v. Shkhelda Central via the North wall (Subortovich route, qualifying), made on June 22, 1980 under the guidance of Radoshkevich E.A. Attendees:

• Head of the training department a/l "Elbrus" — MS Shaposhnikov B.M.
• Head of the rescue camp — Ostrovsky V.M.
• Commander of the 1st detachment of athletes — MS SIVTSOV V.G.
• Radoshkevich E.A. — leader
• Turkevich M.M. — participant
• Feldman G.L. — participant

Ascent Passport

1. Rocky ridge; Classification section № 2.8 96
2. Tbau East (2832 m), via the Eastern edge of the Southeast bastion.
3. 5B category of difficulty
4. Route type: rock
5. Route height difference: 912 m (by GPS) Route length: 1550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 150 m. Average steepness: — main part of the route: 75°

Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Ukrainian SSR ![img-0.jpeg]({"width":555,"height":552,"format": "Jpeg","uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/r9xyHAvOvdkcYFgEnUgGJTGQdFabvpu5/img-0.jpeg","id":64763611}) Report on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma via the south face ![img-1.jpeg]({"width":682,"height":670,"format": "Jpeg","uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/2u7knCK5FD8RbdRRywsEXZxaICkmFBhA/img-1.jpeg","id":64763612}) Kiev, 1973

I. Sports Characteristic of the Route

The object of the ascent, Peak Kommunizma, is located at the junction of the Petra Pervogo and Akademii Nauk ranges in the Central Pamir. After E. M. Abalakov's first ascent of Peak Kommunizma in 1933, a large number of new routes were laid to its summit. The area around Peak Kommunizma is frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is fairly well-known both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. (See "Pobezhdennye vershiny" 1968–1969.) Following the brilliant reconnaissance by V. Bozhuukov and A. Belopukhov in 1965, and the successful ascents by the groups led by E. Myslovsky and V. Onishchenko, the central part of the south face of Peak Kommunizma became one of the main challenging routes for Soviet mountaineers. Our team's acquaintance with Peak Kommunizma began in 1967 when we made the first ascent of its northeast ridge, earning the title of USSR champions. In 1972, we attempted to ascend via the center of the south face. Due to harsh weather conditions and time constraints, we were forced to descend, having reached an altitude of 6300–6400 m.

Pobeda Main 7439 m. Ascent via the NE buttress. Central Tian-Shan.

PASS

1. Category of altitude ascents.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Zvezdochka glacier.
3. Peak Pobeda Main via NE buttress.
4. First ascent, proposed category 5B.
5. Elevation gain — 2639 m, route length — 3870 m. Length of 6A category sections — 290 m. Average steepness of the route — 44°. Average steepness of 6A category sections: 50° (5192–5264); 70° (6026–6066); 50°, 65° (6144–6240); 60° (6608–6648); 75° (6816–6834).
6. Pitons left on the route (not removed) — none. Insurance points organized on the route:

To the Chairman of the Presidium of the Alpinism Federation of the Kirghiz SSR

Comrade Smirnov Yu.N. From the participants of the traverse of the "Choktal" massif Comrades Buryak V.N., Aksenov V.A., Lengnik O.M.

Petition

In 1962, a sports group led by Naumenko I.M. completed a traverse of the "Choktal" massif, category 5B. The group followed the route with some deviations from the original route due to the lack of a complete and detailed description. In connection with this, the group made independent decisions on the choice of path in certain sections of the traverse. The group members removed notes from all the peaks of the massif and control tours. In the group's opinion, the deviations made from the classified route do not affect its category of difficulty. When reviewing the group's traverse, the commission (chaired by Rotataev N.S.) proposed that we compile a detailed description of the route taken and consider it at the Presidium of the Alpinism Federation of the Kirghiz SSR. In this regard, the group petitions for the classification of the route taken and consideration of the traverse results. October 20, 1962.

Championship of the Kazakh SSR

High-altitude class

II. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via the north-eastern ridge of the shoulder of Peak Chapayev from the North Inylchek Glacier (first ascent)

Team 12 SCA SAVO Coach: Yuriy Mikhaylovich Moiseev Team captain: Valeriy Nikolayevich Khrshchatyy

1. 12 Sports Club of the Army, Almaty
2. Almaty, Kurmangazy St., 15, apt. 8, Khrshchatyy V. N., ph. 61-27-25 Participants: V. Khrshchatyy, Z. Aubekerov, G. Mikhaylov, A. Vasil'yev, Ye. Sedel'nikov (SCA-12) August 17-20, 1988

To the Main Judges' Panel of the 2005 Russian Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Khan Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North Face. Combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes. From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team consisting of Tukhvatullin I.Kh. and Shabalin P.E.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S. Inylchek glacier, section 7.9
2. Khan Tengri peak 6995 m, from S. Inylchek glacier via the center of the N. face
3. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes.
4. Route type - combined
5. Height difference of the route - 2760 m.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya, 4200 m, East Face (M.L. Mishilyaev).
4. Difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 800 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 200 m, average steepness 70°.
6. Pitons driven: