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First double ascent in Alpine style through the center of Khan-Tengri North Face. Description of the route, equipment, and an interview with the climbers.

To the Main Judging Panel of the 2005 Russian Federation Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Class

Report

On ascending to the summit of Khan-Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North face. Combination of routes: Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88. From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team, consisting of Tukhvatullin I. Kh. and Shabalin P. E., undertook the ascent.

Ascent Passport

  1. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, South Inylchek glacier, section 7.9
  2. Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m, from the South Inylchek glacier via the center of the North face
  3. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, combination of routes Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88.
  4. Route type – combined
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Ascent via the center of Khan-Tengri's northern wall by a team of two in Alpine style, category 6B, with a description of the equipment and tactics used.

To the Main Judges' Panel of the 2005 Russian Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Khan Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North Face. Combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes. From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team consisting of Tukhvatullin I.Kh. and Shabalin P.E.

Ascent Passport

  1. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S. Inylchek glacier, section 7.9
  2. Khan Tengri peak 6995 m, from S. Inylchek glacier via the center of the N. face
  3. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes.
  4. Route type - combined
  5. Height difference of the route - 2760 m.
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