4.1.41.

Alpinism Federation of the Lithuanian SSR

Report on the ascent via the eastern counterfort of Peak Kommunizma to 6500 m by the team of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports of the Lithuanian SSR

1971 Team composition:

• G. Bernatonis — captain
• E. Adomaitis
• D. Makauskas — coach
• S. Miglinas
• V. Šaduikis

Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Ukrainian SSR ![img-0.jpeg]({"width":555,"height":552,"format": "Jpeg","uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/r9xyHAvOvdkcYFgEnUgGJTGQdFabvpu5/img-0.jpeg","id":64763611}) Report on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma via the south face ![img-1.jpeg]({"width":682,"height":670,"format": "Jpeg","uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/2u7knCK5FD8RbdRRywsEXZxaICkmFBhA/img-1.jpeg","id":64763612}) Kiev, 1973

I. Sports Characteristic of the Route

The object of the ascent, Peak Kommunizma, is located at the junction of the Petra Pervogo and Akademii Nauk ranges in the Central Pamir. After E. M. Abalakov's first ascent of Peak Kommunizma in 1933, a large number of new routes were laid to its summit. The area around Peak Kommunizma is frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is fairly well-known both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. (See "Pobezhdennye vershiny" 1968–1969.) Following the brilliant reconnaissance by V. Bozhuukov and A. Belopukhov in 1965, and the successful ascents by the groups led by E. Myslovsky and V. Onishchenko, the central part of the south face of Peak Kommunizma became one of the main challenging routes for Soviet mountaineers. Our team's acquaintance with Peak Kommunizma began in 1967 when we made the first ascent of its northeast ridge, earning the title of USSR champions. In 1972, we attempted to ascend via the center of the south face. Due to harsh weather conditions and time constraints, we were forced to descend, having reached an altitude of 6300–6400 m.

Ascent Description of the Unnamed Peak "Patriot Peak" 6350 m

The unnamed peak with an elevation of 6350 m above sea level, conditionally named "Patriot Peak", is located in the southern spur of the Akademiya Nauk range, branching off from the Molotov Glacier, at the fork of the Garmo and Vavilov Glaciers, and separates the basins of the Belyaev and Vavilov Glaciers. See the sketch, figure 1. The ascent to the unnamed peak 6350 m, named "Patriot Peak", was made by the Lokomotiv Sports Society team via the southwest ridge. The starting point of the ascent is the "Sarmot" camp on the moraine, at the fork of the Vavilov and Garmo Glaciers. The camp was named due to the large number of marmots inhabiting the surrounding area. The camp's elevation is 4000 m above sea level. From the Sarmot camp, the ascent goes along the moraines on the right orographic side of the 1st northern tributary of the Vavilov Glacier. At an elevation of 4500 m in the cirque of this tributary, the first camp is set up. On the second day of the ascent, it is necessary to: – cross the glacier; – ascend to the shoulder of the southwest ridge. The path goes through extremely steep firn slopes, intersected by numerous crevasses. It is necessary to wear crampons and move in teams. The overall slope steepness is 35–40°, with a height gain of about 400 m. The direct ascent to the shoulder is made via a steep firn-ice ridge. It is necessary to overcome two steep ice sections: – the first — 80 m, steepness 60°;

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR

CS DSO "Burevestnik" Championship in Alpinism 1969, High-Altitude Climbing Class

Peak Pravda (6500 m) via the Western Counterfort (approx. 5B cat. diff.)

TEAM OF THE LOCAL COMMITTEE OF THE CHELYABINSK POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE. Chelyabinsk, 1969 Peak Pravda (6400 m) is located in the center of the northwestern Pamir in the Akademiya Nauk Range, on the territory of the Tajik SSR. This region is the most elevated part of the Pamir. Here, particularly favorable conditions are created for the formation and accumulation of ice, which in the form of glaciers slides down the slopes of the ridges and peaks, filling the valleys (Fedchenko, Fortambek, Garmo, etc.). The snow line in this area is approximately at an altitude of 4000–4500 m. The climate in the region is sharply continental with sharp temperature fluctuations from winter to summer, from day to night. The high altitude and considerable technical complexity make Peak Pravda an excellent mountain in alpinist terms, and the ascent via the most difficult route—the western counterfort from the Belyaev Glacier—represents significant sporting interest. In 1968, a group of climbers ascended this route:

Climbing Report on Peak Lenin via Arkin's Route (Variation)

Climbing Details:

1. Pamir. Peak Lenin, 7134 m. Via the center of the north face, Arkin's route. Route type – snow and ice. Route elevation gain 2700 m.
2. Climbing style: alpine.
3. Average steepness: main part of the route – 40–45°.
4. Pitons left on the route: 0

PLATEAU 6100 NORTHERN SLOPE OF THE EASTERN RIDGE OF PEAK LENIN

Climbing Description

The ascent route follows the path to Peak Lenin via Lipkin Rock.

Day 1

From the base camp at 3600 m, the path goes through pastures and "Onion Glade" to the foot of "Tent Rock." Then, through a lateral gorge, it follows a trail that leads to a saddle in the ridge named "Travelers' Pass." From "Travelers' Pass," the trail initially descends and then traverses to the right across talus slopes, crosses a canyon, and bypasses a standalone rock on the left. Upon reaching the glacier, a zone of lateral crevasses is encountered. The ice is heavily covered with debris. The path up the glacier towards Lipkin Rock initially follows its middle part and then, bypassing the icefall on the right, moves to the right orographic moraine, which is a chain of black hills of talus material extending from the foot of Lipkin Rock. The glacier in its upper part is closed, requiring travel in ropes. At the moraine near the foot of Lipkin Rock, there is a large area suitable for overnight stays, a common stop for many expeditions heading to Peak Lenin from the north. The height of this location is 4200 m. There is water available, and many areas for tents. The journey from the "Vysochnik" alpine camp to the 4200 m overnight stay took 6 hours. We take a one-hour rest to prepare hot food. We bypass Lipkin Rock on the right and, entering a wide snowy couloir, ascend through the snow, cutting steps, to the ridge of Lipkin Rock, marked in descriptions as 5200 m. The ascent to Lipkin Rock from 4200 m took 2 hours. On the ridge, there are many cleared areas for tents, and on the snowy plateau to the left of the ridge, water can be uncovered under the snow. On a terrace below the ridge, the remains of Lipkin's plane are visible.

4875 m

A. S. Komeroro 4280 m

To the Main Judging Panel of the 2005 Russian Federation Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Class

Report

On ascending to the summit of Khan-Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North face. Combination of routes: Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88. From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team, consisting of Tukhvatullin I. Kh. and Shabalin P. E., undertook the ascent.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, South Inylchek glacier, section 7.9
2. Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m, from the South Inylchek glacier via the center of the North face
3. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, combination of routes Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88.
4. Route type – combined

8. Kara — a lesson