Archimedes Peak via the northern ice gully, Category III, Winter Climbing.

From the Ukyu-kosh hut, follow the terminal moraine trail to the KSP "dovecote" shelter - 3/4 to 1 hour.

The ice gully is a hanging glacier tongue descending from the 3rd ridge plateau, bounded on both sides by rocky buttresses. Over a 200m stretch, the glacier's slope is 40-45°, with the lower 40m being nearly vertical and, in places, overhanging.

From the "dovecote", cross the glacial stream and ascend the icy slope with rocks and snow debris to the glacier's terminus. When ascending the tongue, stick to the safer middle section and only shift towards the left buttress rocks when reaching the gentler upper part. From the route's start - 5-8 hours.

Further ascent along the ridge to the 3rd and highest peaks, and descent - as per description 1.

Hazardous sections: the entire lower part of the route is prone to rockfall from both sides. It's advisable to start the route as early as possible; avoid starting after a warm night or in low visibility.

Special equipment:

• Ice screws - 8-15 pcs.
• Ice hammers (ice fifis)
• Crampons - for all participants
• Main rope length = number of teams + 1 (for the last team's belay setup).