UKRAINIAN REPUBLICAN COUNCIL OF THE STUDENT SPORTS SOCIETY "BUREVESTNIK"

FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF UILPATA-TAU VIA THE CENTRAL RIB FROM THE EAST, 5B category of difficulty (report) Caucasus, Tsey, July 26–28, 1968

I. Introduction

1. Brief characteristics of the ascent area

The summit of Uilpata-tau (4646 m) is located in close proximity to the Main Caucasian Range and towers above all other peaks in the Tsey region of the Caucasus. The Tsey mountain region is situated to the northeast of the Main Caucasian Range, encompassing peaks from Nokauk-sakh-zayne in the west to Mamison-Khokh in the east. The main peaks of the region — Fday-khokh, Zomag-taU, Ronketti, Mamison-Khokh, ChanchaKhi-Khokh, Uilpata-tau — are arranged in two "horseshoes" that divide the Tsey Glacier into two cirques: the South and North cirques. In the North cirque of the Tsey Glacier are located the peaks:

III. Uipata via the Third Buttress of the Yemnogogreben Ridge

(combined route, category 5A) From Uilpatin sleeping sites (or from Khosinn) the movement goes in the direction of the confluence of two couloirs that skirt the Central Buttress, and further to the beginning of the Central Ridge (buttress). The entry onto the rocks is carried out in the lower part of a large internal angle, further movement goes vertically upwards through the internal angle for 40 m. Then - along a steep shelf to the right for 10 m, exit onto несложные скалы (easy rocks), along which you need to go up to the ridge of the buttress for 60 m. After exiting onto the ridge of the buttress, you need to overcome a wall 10 m high, at the top of which on a rocky shoulder there is a control cairn. Relatively complex sections at the stage up to the I control cairn:

• Vertical movement upwards through the internal angle (40 m)
• Overcoming a steep shelf to the right (10 m)
• Ascending easy rocks to the ridge of the buttress (60 m)
• Overcoming a wall (10 m) to the control cairn TRAVERSING to the right in the upper part of the vertical angle (internal) and exit to the wall to the I cairn.

TACTICAL PLAN FOR ASCENDING ULLPATA PEAK

Via the 3rd Buttress of the South Ridge, Category 5A difficulty, July 14–15, 1983 (team under guidance)

Legend

• Ascent route
• Descent route
• Alternative descent route in good snow conditions

Objects on the Map

• Ullpata Peak: 4646 m (reached by 6:00)
• Ullpatinsky Pass

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class
2. Ascent area — technical. Central part of the mountain range, between the peak to the Southwest and the saddle to the East.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Ularg, 4320 m, via the bastions of the North face.
4. Expected difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 1100 m, length — 1212 m, average steepness — 68°. Length of sections: 2 — 70 m, 3 — 25 m, 4 — 460 m, 5 — 430 m, 6 — 227 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: for belaying
   • rock — 104

Ukrainian Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports and Recreation Society Mt. UlarG, 4320 m, via the bastions of the North Face Team Composition:

• 1. Bodnik V.N.
• 2. Bychek A.M.
• 3. Barsukov V.A.
• 4. Bozhko I.V.
• 5. Derkach A.A.
• 6. Kharianyk I.V. 1980

Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification: technical.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, "Tsey".
3. Peak, its height; ascent route: p. ChanchaKhi-khokh, 4450 m, NE wall (first ascent).
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B category.
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1000 m, average steepness - 68°, section length - 5-6 km, technical difficulty - 800 m.
6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating ITO: rock - 153, for creating ITO - 8, ice - 0, bolted - 0.
7. Total climbing hours - 46.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: lying down - 2, sitting - 1.
9. Surname, name, and patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — first ascent.
2. Ascent area — Tepli-Arkhon massif.
3. Peak — Arkhon Malyy, its height — 3953 m, ascent route — via the Northern wall of the Western ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections with 5B-6 difficulty category — 370 m, average steepness 76° (of the wall section).
6. Pitons hammered: | | rock | ice | bolt | stopper | |:---|:---:|:----:|:---:|:-----:| | for belay: | 86 | 3 | 0 | 34 |

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category: technical 2. Climbing area: Caucasus; 2.8; Kolka glacier 3. Peak, route: Dzhimaraikhokh peak (4773 m); I knee-fold of the North ridge from Kolka glacier 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B category of difficulty; first ascent 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2000 m, route length — 2800 m, length of sections: 5 category of difficulty — 20 m, 4 category of difficulty — 200 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 40°–45° 6. Pitons hammered: ice screws — 50 pcs., rock pitons — 3 pcs., chocks — none 7. Number of climbing hours/days — 20/2

Approach Description

From the confluence of the Zaki and Zrug rivers along the dirt road that runs along the Zrug River to the ruins of the church. About 20 km. A kilometer upstream, the river splits into two tributaries:

• Follow the right tributary eragrafically for 1.5 hours to the kosh.
• Then, head right along the stream (eragrafically, the left side of the gorge).
• Enter a small cirque formed by two ridges of p. Skryabina. Bivouac is possible. From the church, it takes 4–4.5 hours.

Route Description

P. Skryabina via the North Ridge, category III difficulty. From the bivouac, head right onto the ridge. Then, along the ridge for 250–300 m (R0–R1), category I difficulty. After that, the ridge turns into a mountain slope with minor ascents (R1–R2), 100 m, category II difficulty.

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4