Dzhalyk via the North Face (M. Suponitsky's route, 5A cat. diff.) Initial bivouac — at the end of the left-bank moraine or on the upper snow plateau of the Tytju glacier opposite the North Face of Dzhalyk peak. From the bivouac:

• Across Tytju glacier, having passed the icefall, approach the left side of the steep ice-and-snow slope of the North Face of Dzhalyk peak.
• From the glacier, on the left side of this slope, ascend 100 m to the right side of the lower rock island of the North Face.
• Across simple snow-covered and ruined rocks of the island, 90–100 m straight up.
  • The island can be bypassed on the right across the ice-and-snow slope (avalanches, rockfall).
• From the island, across a steep 250–300-meter ice-and-snow slope, to the right of the rocks, ascend to a snow bowl beneath an overhanging rock wall.
  • Bivouac in the bowl.
  • From the initial bivouac 8–10 hours.

Jailyk via NW buttress (K. Tolstov's route, cat. 5A) The routes along the NW buttress and N wall start from the Tyutyusu gorge, which explains their low traffic; however, for winter conditions, the routes on the northern aspect of Jailyk are more preferable due to the possibility to ascend almost entirely on ice. Approach and Bivouac

• The initial bivouac is located at the end of the left-bank moraine or on the snowy plateau of the Tyutyu glacier — opposite the North wall of Jailyk peak.
• From the bivouac, ascend along the glacier, then along a 60-meter ice-and-snow slope to approach the left side of the wide rocky Lower Island to the right of the North wall of Jailyk peak. Ascent to the Lower Rocky Island
• From the slope, to the right of the avalanche cone, ascend straight up through difficult rocks of a vertical 10–12-meter corner, a 4-meter chimney, and steep 10-meter rocks of medium difficulty onto a ledge.
• From the ledge, ascend 100–120 m along steep, crumbling rocks of medium difficulty, alternating with small walls, under a 40–50-meter wall.
• Ascend a difficult chimney up and to the right onto a ledge.
• From the ledge, ascend up and to the left along smooth, higher — crumbling rocks of the wall and exit from it onto a weakly expressed ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, branching off from Mestia-tau peak, Djailyk knot between Donkin and Killar passes.
3. Peak — its height, ascent route: Djailyk 4533 m, combined route via south-southwest wall of the southern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 890 m.
   • Average steepness up to the summit ridge: 64°.
   • Average steepness of the most difficult "key" part of the route: 89°.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge, section 2.4.1.
2. Peak Dzhailyk, left part of the 3rd wall of the Yugrebnya shoulder.
3. Difficulty category: 5B.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference — 730 m; route length — 1000 m. Length of sections: 5th diff. cat. — 50 m, 6th diff. cat. — 75 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 85°, entire route — 55°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 4, including bolted — 1. Pitons used on the route:

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Caucasus, Adyr-Su valley
3. Mt. Dzhailyk, via the Central counterfort of the South wall (Khazkevich's route)
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Height difference — 600 m Height difference of the wall section — 300 m, route length — 1137 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 202 m, average steepness of the wall section — 80°
6. Pitons used: rock, bolt, ice, and chock placements: 38/3, 4×, 1+2×, 49/6× (reuse of previously driven pitons)
7. Travel time: — 8.5 hours, days — 1

Tina­yyol ha­ya­ra­ra MAPUPST From the upper Kpchkpdarsky bivouacs, crossing the Zapadnыy — Su glacier, we approach the summit of Dhaidik from the west, to a narrow snowy ascent, where the route begins.

• In the lower part of the couloir (20–40 m) we ascend via a large jammed stone. We overhang this stone on the left (possibly on the right).
• Along the right -300 wall of the couloir, we ascend to its upper part (40 m).
• In the upper part, we move to the left side of the couloir onto a steep ledge (psychological moment). Insurance is through a crook. The transition is carried out by stepping over the couloir.

Moscow Alpinism Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class

Ascent Report

To the peak Dzhailyk, 4424 m, via 1st South buttress, 3rd rib by Frantsuzov's route Team KAiS MPEI Moscow, 2017

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, branching off from Mestia-tau peak, Dzhailyk node between Donkin and Kilar passes, section number according to the classification table 2.4.1.
2. Dzhailyk peak 4424 m via 1st South buttress, 3rd rib (Frantsuzov's route 1970).
3. Difficulty category: 5B.

North-West Federal District Championship in Alpinism (high-altitude technical class)

Climbing Report

on the ascent of Dzhailik peak (4424 m) via 1st S buttress of 3 rib (M. Franzuzov's route, 1970, 5B grade) The route was completed on August 5, 2024. Participants:

• Yakuba
• Nikolai
• Chetverikov
• Denis

Contents

Ascent Log

1. Climbing grade — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Chipperaza Pass to Ortokara peak.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Latsga (3999 m) eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 620 m average steepness — 52° length of sections — 5th cat. diff. — 197 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belay and for creating R.P.E. rock pitons 56

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4