Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge, section 2.4.1.
2. Peak Dzhailyk, left part of the 3rd wall of the Yugrebnya shoulder.
3. Difficulty category: 5B.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference — 730 m; route length — 1000 m. Length of sections: 5th diff. cat. — 50 m, 6th diff. cat. — 75 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 85°, entire route — 55°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 4, including bolted — 1. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted — 3, removable — 1. Artificial climbing aids (ACA) used — 38.
7. Team's traveling hours: 21 hours, 3 days.
8. Leader: Puchnin Vyacheslav Evgenievich, Master of Sports. Participants: Malafeev Vladimir Ivanovich, 1st sports category; Popov Oleg Pavlovich, 1st sports category.
9. Coach: Puchnin Vyacheslav Evgenievich, Master of Sports.
10. Departure to the route: August 2, 2002, 10:30. Reaching the summit: August 4, 2002, 18:40. Return to Base Camp: August 5, 2002, 13:00.

Peak Dzhailyk, photo taken on August 2, 2002, from overnight stay in a snow "pocket". Routes: 1 — Franzuzova (5B) 2 — Khatskevich (5B) 3 — Li (5B) 4 — Shchepachkov (5B) 5 — Laskavogo (5B) 6 — Ruzhevsky (5A).

Peak Dzhailyk, left part of the 3rd wall of the Yugrebnya shoulder, Li route (5B), technical photo of the main part of the route. Photo taken on August 5, 2002, in a snow "pocket".

Due to the absence of a route description for peak Dzhailyk via the left part of the 3rd wall of the Yugrebnya shoulder (5B category) in the training section of the UMCU "Ullu-tau", the team deemed it appropriate to supplement the report with a route diagram in UIAA symbols and its description by sections.

Route Description by Sections

Sections 0–8 coincide with the 5A category route via the "monk". Special attention should be paid to section 2–3 — "ram's foreheads" covered with flowstone ice. In case of an overnight stay under the "monk", it is recommended to move 20 m to the left, as otherwise, there is a high risk of being hit by a falling stone when groups descend via the 5A route. From the overnight stay location — a 45 m rappel to the left and down. Approximately 10 m below the large internal angle covered by a cornice at the top (Shchepachkov's variant) — the start of the route. A piton is driven here, and 2–3 m above it — a channel.

Section 8–9 — up a vertical wall under the cornice, which is bypassed on the left. In some places during bad weather — ACA.

Section 9–11 — a vertical detachment turns into a chimney, closed by a cornice (ACA). At the exit — a stance, 3 m above — a "Petzl" is stuck.

Section 11–14 — up and left under a gap in the cornice (ACA), on the cornice — a bolt and a "carrot". 10 m above the cornice — a control cairn.

Section 14–16 — from the control cairn, a transition to the left and up through a crack (ACA) under a cornice (bolted). The cornice is bypassed on the left, then up a narrow chimney (filled with snow and ice during bad weather) — to a ledge, with 2 bolts in a monolithic slab.

Section 16–20 — to the right and up (ACA) onto a sloping snowy shelf, up a small wall covered with ice, exit to a shelf under a vertical chimney filled with ice. Shchepachkov's route also exits here.

Section 20–22 — up the chimney (ACA), then — via simple walls and chimneys interspersed with shelves — to the ridge.

From the ridge — 1–1.5 hours to the summit and 40–50 m to the start of rappels to the "monk". Some equipment can be left here.

Route Diagram in UIAA Symbols

August 4, 7:30–18:00, 650 m, peak Dzhailyk 4533 m. Photo #8.

R8: August 2, 10:30–17:30, 295 m. R9: August 3, 17:00–19:30, 25 m. Photo #31.

Photo #1. Section 8–9. From R7 — up via the rope. August 3. Photo #2. Sections 10–12. At R8 stance. August 3.