TACTICAL PLAN FOR ASCENDING ULLPATA PEAK

Via the 3rd Buttress of the South Ridge, Category 5A difficulty, July 14–15, 1983 (team under guidance)

Legend

• Ascent route
• Descent route
• Alternative descent route in good snow conditions

Objects on the Map

• Ullpata Peak: 4646 m (reached by 6:00)
• Ullpatinsky Pass

n KAMOHCK-YPR.ABCKUH 5050 Aeroplane n 5400 5833 Route 2 Wtyrmaвoú noзерь Route category 5400 Object name 25. 15. Bero-uey 76 600,40',20,-12, 15 B. 5pabepuain T. Kozack A. Cyбopкина, B. Tpuyoreeba

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge.
3. Peak — III-y Vostochnaya Oguz-Bashi, its height is 4960 m, ascent route — via the northern edge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1560 m, length of sections 5–6 — 759 m, average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 82, ice — 64, bolt — 0, of which for creating artificial holds — 3
7. Number of walking hours — 48
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

Climbing Certificate

1. Type of ascent — high-altitude and technical.
2. Area of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range.
3. Peak — Zamin-Karor 1st Western (4303 m) via the NW wall, a combination of the Yefimov and Kapitanov routes.
4. Difficulty category — proposed 6B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1300 m;
   • total length — 1500 m;
   • average steepness of the wall section 82°;
   • length of sections with V–VI difficulty — 1250 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: High-altitude.
2. Ascent area: Himalayas, Tibet.
3. Peak, route: Chomolungma (Everest 8848 m) via the North-East Ridge.
4. Complexity category: 5B.
5. Height difference:
   • including 2348 m of actual wall section
   • total route length — 2168 m
   • wall section length — 5900 m
   • including 4300 m of 5th complexity category