St. Petersburg Climbing Championship 2021 (altitude-technical class) Report on the ascent to Tyutyu West peak (4233 m), via the S wall, I. Khatskevich, 1973, cat. 5A The route was climbed by the team of the Federation of Alpinism of St. Petersburg St. Petersburg 2021

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, from the Gumači peak to the Kitlod pass. Section No. 2.4.1 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Tyutyu West peak (4233 m), via the S wall, I. Khatskevich, 1973.
3. Route character – combined.

PASSPORT

I. High-altitude class 2. South-West Pamir 3. Peak Engels 6510 m via the Center of the eastern wall 4. Difficulty category — 6 5. Elevation gain: 1410 m, wall length 900 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 530 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°. 6. Pitons hammered:

Passport

Climbing category — winter I. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range

1. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via NW wall ice cascades, category I route. Presumed difficulty cat. — 6A, first ascent, combined. Height difference: 1210 m, length — 1400 m. Length of 5th — 6th difficulty sections — 980 m. Average slope — 63°. Pitons driven: | rock | chocks | ice | | :--: | :----: | :-: | | 87⁄52 | 37⁄75 | 55⁄0 |
2. Climbing hours: 42 h, days — 5

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge
3. Pik Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m, via the Center of the North Face
4. Difficulty category — 6A
5. Height difference — 740 m, length — 890 m, length of sections with 5th diff. cat. — 490 m, 6th diff. cat. — 330 m. Average steepness of the main part — 71°
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock — 35/20
   • bolt — 18/13
   • chocks — 57/28

I. Technical Class

2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range
3. Pik Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m, via North Face (Semiletkin's route)
4. Difficulty category 6B
5. Elevation gain 677 m, length 1060 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 67°, including 6B category difficulty at 85° (4320 m – 4570 m)
6. Pitons used: rock 142/74, bolted pitons 104/40, ice screws 44/2
7. Climbing hours 48, days 7 (including preparation)
8. Overnight stays: five nights in a tent on a platform
9. Team leader: Balyezin Valery Viktorovich, International Master of Sports Team members:

Ascent Passport

on p. 4 I 07 m. First Ascent. I. Climbing category — first ascent 2. Ascent area — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area 3. Summit p. 4 I 07 m. via E. counterfort, route character — rock 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 570 m, length of sections 2–3 cat. diff. — 145 m, average steepness — 47° 6. Pitons driven: rock — 8, ice — 0 7. Number of walking hours — 8 h 8. Number of overnight stays — none 9. Leader — Getman I.S. MS Participants:

• Kuznetsova T.A. P sport.

Passport

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents
2. Inylchek Ridge
3. Peak Shokal'skogo via the northeast wall
4. Complexity category — 6
5. Height difference — 1172 m. Total route length — 1362 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 824 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 71°
6. Pitons hammered: | 135 | 4 | 109 | 53 | | :-- | :- | :-- | :-- | | 46 | 4 | 41 | 0 |

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Sarydzhan range, Marble Wall glacier.
2. Traverse of peaks Karlytau (5450 m) – Marble Wall (6400 m) from Marble Wall glacier, first ascent.
3. Submitted – 5B cat. diff. (tentative).
4. Route character — combined.
5. Route height difference — 2030 m. Route length – 4316 m. Length of sections: V cat. diff. – 2500 m, VI cat. diff. – 300 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route (sections?) – 70°

Russian Alpinism Championship

High-altitude climbing category

Report on the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Khan Tengri, 6995 m via the North Ridge, 5B category of difficulty

team captain team coaches

• V. A. Arkhipov
• N. N. Zakharov
• V. V. Balezin
• G. Krasnoyarsk 2005

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area — Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge, Western spur from Mt. Stal, section 2.4.1 according to KMGV.
2. Peak, route: Peak 3800 m (Peak "Severstal") via the Western ridge.
3. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Height difference: 800 m.
   • including 393 m of actual wall section.
   • total route length — 1685 m
   • wall section length — 865 m
   • including: