61. Yunomkara via the South-Eastern Ridge (combined route, category IIb, fig. 5, 7). Yunomkara via the South-Eastern Ridge, category IIb (M. Misher et al., August 12, 1914; S. Golubev, P. Panyutin, N. Steingoglu, August 25, 1914). From the Bashil tourist center, follow the trail on the right bank of the Bashil River to the Maly Chegem River, which is a left (orographic) tributary of Bashil. Here, turn right and ascend via steep easy rocks, then 'ram's brows' on the right bank of Maly Chegem to the right-bank moraine of the Chegem glacier. Continue along the moraine, and, bypassing the icefall on the right, reach the upper plateau of the Chegem glacier and move to its left side. On the left side of the glacier (closed crevasses), approach the saddle of the Freshfield Pass, located between the peaks of Orubashi on the left and Yunomkara on the right. Here, turn left and, crossing the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend the steep ice-and-snow slope, then easy and simple, destroyed and snow-covered rocks to the Freshfield Pass. The path from the "Jailyk" alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac at "Sredne-Kichkidarske overnight stays" is described in route 73. From "Sredne-Kichkidarske overnight stays":

• On the left side of the Yunom glacier (closed crevasses), approach the saddle of the Freshfield Pass, located between the peaks of Yunomkara on the left and Orubashi on the right.
• Here, turn left and ascend the ice-and-snow slope (avalanches), then snow-covered, heavily destroyed easy and simple rocks of the wide slope to the Freshfield Pass.

Ha­ka 3-0

307. Dolra East via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2B diff., fig. 32, 42). From the Southern “Becho” Shelter, go up the Dolra River. Cross the river and ascend steep grassy, and higher up scree (loose rocks) slopes to a small plateau at the foot of the ascent to the East Ridge of Dolra peak. Set up the initial bivouac at the plateau. From the Southern “Becho” Shelter 3–4 hours. The exit to the East Ridge is also possible from the Dolra Glacier (point 295). From the plateau, go up a snow-covered couloir on the left side to reach the East Ridge. Further, ascend 600–700 m up along the wide, heavily jagged and ruined easy rocky East Ridge with numerous gendarmes that are either overcome head-on or bypassed, to a small plateau below the Big Gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a 20-meter wall (cam). Further, along the heavily ruined, and in places snow-covered (cornices) East Ridge, ascend to the summit of Dolra East. From the initial bivouac: 5–7 hours. Fig. 42.

Vils

The Vils peak (3861 m) is located in the northeastern part of the Kalper ridge, between Shulgina peak and Passionaria summit. Above the Skazdona valley, Vils rises with steep rocky slopes and walls. In the Hissar gorge, a simple South ridge descends from the peak, separating the Vils glacier to the east from Passionaria to the west. Under the southwestern slopes of Vils lies a small hanging glacier, Western Passionaria. The following ridges have no routes to the peak yet:

• North ridge
• Southwest ridge

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Area: 2.7 3. Summit: Malaya Songuti 3800 m via Central Counterfort of the North Face 4. Proposed Difficulty Category: 4A 5. Route Nature: Height difference 500 m, average steepness 70–75°. Section length: II – 60 m, III – 260 m, IV – 290 m, V – 25 m 6. Pitons driven: For belay: Rock — 16 Boulder — 0

119. SONGUTI-ULARG, TRAVERSE

(combined route) category III The path from the "Torpedo" camp goes along the trail along the Tsey-Don River to the Uilpata River, where it is necessary to turn upwards (to the right). By the stream flowing down the "sheep's foreheads" from the Uilpatinsky Glacier (C-3), the path turns towards this glacier, ascending to the right end of the glacier. When ascending, one should beware of rockfall. The glacier should be ascended in the middle, heading towards the overhanging wall of the icefall. The wall is the edge of the firn plateau that feeds the Uilpatinsky Glacier and the nameless glacier sliding down to the northern branch of the Tsey Glacier. Both these glaciers are divided by the eastern shoulder of Uilpata. From this icefall - the serac - one should bypass it from the left (in the direction of travel), ascending along the avalanche deposits, cross the bergschrund, and exit onto the scree, ascending along it to the ridge of the western end of the eastern shoulder of Uilpata. When ascending to the ridge, beware of rockfall. From the ridge of the eastern shoulder of Uilpata, cross over to the firn plateau and head in the direction of the Sonquti ridge, towards the 10-3 ridge. When ascending to the ridge, one should keep to the direction of the second (counting from Uilpata) "gendarme" along the firn and partly icy slope. Initially, overcome a small bergschrund and approach the rocks along the slope, ascending through the couloirs, and exit onto the 10-3 ridge of Sonquti. When ascending, it is necessary to beware of avalanches and rockfall. On the ridge near the "gendarme", a bivouac can be organized. Further, the path goes along the 10-3 ridge to the Sonquti summit. On the ridge, there are two more "gendarmes":

• the first is small and can be passed easily;

UKRAINIAN REPUBLICAN COUNCIL OF THE STUDENT SPORTS SOCIETY "BUREVESTNIK"

FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF UILPATA-TAU VIA THE CENTRAL RIB FROM THE EAST, 5B category of difficulty (report) Caucasus, Tsey, July 26–28, 1968

I. Introduction

1. Brief characteristics of the ascent area

The summit of Uilpata-tau (4646 m) is located in close proximity to the Main Caucasian Range and towers above all other peaks in the Tsey region of the Caucasus. The Tsey mountain region is situated to the northeast of the Main Caucasian Range, encompassing peaks from Nokauk-sakh-zayne in the west to Mamison-Khokh in the east. The main peaks of the region — Fday-khokh, Zomag-taU, Ronketti, Mamison-Khokh, ChanchaKhi-Khokh, Uilpata-tau — are arranged in two "horseshoes" that divide the Tsey Glacier into two cirques: the South and North cirques. In the North cirque of the Tsey Glacier are located the peaks:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent classification combined
2. Ascent region Eastern Caucasus
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route (Peak Chkalova (Anchobola)), 4111 m, from the south and along the western ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category 1B
5. Route characteristics

East. Shakhdag, via South Couloir by Asadov Ya. A. East Caucasus 2.11.2018

Passport

1. Route type — combined
2. East Caucasus, Shahnabad and Kusarчай river gorges
3. Shakhdag East via South Couloir
4. Assumed 2A cat. diff. — first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1125 m, distance — 2260 m Length of cat. diff. 2 sections — 600–700 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 35°
6. Moving time — 6 hours

Peak BOLGARIA (5666 m) via peak 5600 along the Western Ridge (Central Pamir) Area Map

Geographical Location

The gathering place for the climbers of MOS DSO "Zenit" in 1970 was the area of Peak Revolyutsii in the Central Pamir, with the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara valley. The summit — Peak Bolgariya — was the target of the ascent. It belongs to the mountain chain stretching south from the highest peak in the area — Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m). On the opposite, western, side of the valley, the peaks of the Yazgulemsky Ridge stretch from north to south, most of which exceed 5000 m in height. The area is dominated by six-thousander peaks located in the northern part of the valley:

Fig. 26. 164. Lekzyr Severная via North Ridge (combined route, V. Martynova, category 4A, fig. 24, 26). From the initial bivouac on the "Morena Lekzyr" sites (point 159), cross the Eastern branch of the Lekzyr Glacier and approach the right side of the Tot pass — the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Lekzyr Severная peak. From the glacier:

• overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge;
• ascend a steep 100–300-meter ice-and-snow slope to the North Ridge of Lekzyr Severная peak.