ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent classification combined

  2. Ascent region Eastern Caucasus

  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route (Peak Chkalova (Anchobola)), 4111 m, from the south and along the western ridge

  4. Estimated difficulty category 1B

  5. Route characteristics elevation gain — 520 m average steepness — 30° length of sections: I — 320 m, II–VIII — 530 m

  6. Pitons hammered in: — rock: 0 — ice: 0 — bolted: 1 (for belay, for creating anchor points)

  7. Number of nights and their characteristics no nights

  8. Number of climbing hours 7

  9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification

    1. Akhmedkhanov K.E. — 2nd sports category
    2. Pashuk E.G. — 2nd sports category
    3. Kozorezov E.F. — 2nd sports category
    4. Leonov P.G. — 2nd sports category
    5. Svinarev G.I. — 3rd sports category
  10. Team coach Master of Sports of the USSR Timoshin M.E.

  11. Date of departure on the route and return June 25, 1981

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Route Sections Table

DateDesignationAverage steepnessLengthTerrain characteristicsDifficultyConditionWeather conditionsPitons: RockIceBolted
June 25, 1981R0–R135°320 mFirn slope2Firm firn, step cuttingExcellentsimultaneous belay
R1–R245°20 mInner corner2Destroyed shale rocksExcellent1handrail
R2–R315°150 mRidge1Destroyed shale ridgeExcellentsimultaneous belay
R3–R450°20 mWall2Dense sandstone outcropsLight cloudiness, gusty windalternate belay through ledges
R4–R515°250 mRidge1Cornices to the northsimultaneous belay
R5–R630°50 mSlope2Steep firnsimultaneous belay
R6–R710°40 mRidge2Cornice to the easthandrail when crossing couloir with cornice

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Route Diagram according to UIAA

Height 4104 m, Peak Chkalova (Anchobola) Height 3820 m (Zigitli pass) Height 3580 m

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www.alpfederation.ru

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Sources

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