Route description for Peak 4500 "Kundyum-Mijirgi" via the southeast ridge, category 3B difficulty.

Day I

Ascent to the third step of the "Kundyum-Mijirgi" icefall. (Refer to the route descriptions for Peak 4500 via the western ridge, category 3B difficulty, and via the northern ridge, category 3A difficulty.)

Day II

From the campsite on the third step, ascend to the plateau located above the fourth step of the icefall. The fourth step is bypassed either on the left along the rocks or through a labyrinth of crevasses in the middle part. Traverse the plateau, staying on its left side, towards the saddle between the "Ptitsa" peak and Peak 4500. Ascend to the saddle via a snowy couloir (with rock outcrops in the upper part), staying on the right side. The rocky gendarme (1) in the ridge between "Ptitsa" and Peak 4500 remains on the right. The ascent from the campsite on the third step to the saddle takes 2–4 hours. From the saddle, proceed along the ridge (moderately difficult rocks) for 6 rope lengths to a rectangular gendarme (rock) 4 m high. The rock is a key point on the route. For a team of 4, the following order is recommended for passing the rock. The first climber from the first rope team approaches the inner corner of the rock along a sharp snowy ridge and drives in the first piton for self-belaying and setting up a belay.

144. Tutyurgiu South via South-East Ridge

(a rock route by A. Naumov, cat. III difficulty, figs. 14, 16). The path from the Bezengi alp camp (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper circus below the tongue of the East Shaurtu glacier is described in route 142. Having moved 150–200 m left of the base of the South-East ridge of Tutyurgiu South peak, turn right and enter a narrow rocky couloir on the left side of the South-East ridge of Tutyurgiu South peak. The route follows:

• easy slabs,
• broken rocks of the couloir,
• a 7–8-meter smooth slab (easy rock section),

3. Uky via the Southeast Ridge, 2A.

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, ascend via the trail to the “golubyatnya” FAP shelter and reach the M. Ukyu glacier. Traverse the right side to bypass the steep rise of the glacier under the base of Ukyu's South ridge, then proceed along the middle of the glacier towards the Ukyu col. 250 m before the col (1.5–2 hours from the “golubyatnya”), move from the glacier leftward onto the talus under the base of the Southeastern ridge's rocky massif that descends towards the col. Along the boundary between the rocks (on the right) and the wide talus couloir, ascend to the talus “shoulder” of Ukyu's Southeast ridge — 1–1.5 hours from the glacier. Along the rocky ridge with simultaneous protection via outcrops and pitons, the “jandarms” are passed directly. The pre-summit rise of the ridge is overcome via the wall left of the ridge: from the talus saddle (possibly snowy), traverse left along a ledge for 30 m, then up and right via a wide rock chimney, exiting it leftward through a cleft with a plug, then via moss-covered blocks onto the ridge — protection via outcrops. In other variations of ascending the rise, piton protection is used. The gentle pre-summit section is passed simultaneously along the ridge line. 2–2.5 hours from reaching the ridge. Descent follows the ascent route down to the “golubyatnya”, taking 1.5–2 hours. Special equipment: 5–6 rock pitons or chocks.

Ullu-Auz from Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass.

The summit of Ullu-Auz-Bashi (4679 m) is located in a branch of the lateral ridge, separating the basins of Dumala and Mizhyrgi rivers. The ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi from Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass is classified as 3A category of difficulty.

Day 1.

From the "Bezengi" road, the path goes along the left-bank moraine of the Mizhyrgi glacier until the trail disappears and the moraine descends to the level of the glacier (about an hour and a half of walking), then you need to reach the glacier and ascend along its middle to the first step of the Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall. The first step is passed on the right side along the gentlest ice slope. You should not approach the slopes of Mizhyrgi due to possible snow avalanches, and after passing the first step, you need to quickly move up to the left to the left edge of the second step of the icefall. The lower part of the second step of the icefall is bypassed (on the left) along the talus (50–60 m), then the path goes to the right and leads to the ice above the steep ice slope. Here, crampons are usually put on. Further, the path goes:

• straight up the icefall,
• about 20–50 m from its left edge. Numerous crevices are filled with serac debris and are passed without difficulty. The most difficult section of the second step is located in its upper part, where it may be necessary to:

Ural V. via S. wall, 4А

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the KSP “golubyatnya” shelter, here exit onto the Ukyu glacier, on it, keeping to the right side, ascend (200 m short of) to the Ukyu pass, 2 hours (Fig. 1). From the glacier, right and up 150 m along the snowy slope to the bergschrund. Then move up along the ice ridge going left of all the rocky islands under the saddle between the peaks of M. and V. Ural. The ridge abuts against the rocky tower of M. Ural, here right — under the tower's rocks — exit to the saddle. From the start of the route 3–4 hours. From the saddle up the wide chimney with protection via rock pitons 25 m to the plug, exit from the chimney right and up the wall 10 m to a ledge with a good protrusion (rappel loop). From the ledge:

• left and up 20 m to a rocky outcrop (protrusion 3–4 m);
• then along the rocks (possible snow, ice) 35–40 m to the E. ridge (second loop). From here:
• along the inner corner 20 m to the summit.

Fig. 17

Traversing p. Akritov (3705 m) — p. Agibalova (3705 m) from E.

Caucasus, Sugansky ridge

Strebejev V.N.

July 20, 2002

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Caucasus, Digoria, Sugansky ridge
3. Traversing p. Akritov (p. 3705 m, E) — p. Agibalova (p. 3705 m, W), from E.
4. Suggested — 3B cat. diff. rock
5. Height difference 900 m, length 1150 m.

Galdor Centralny, 3980 m, via the South Buttress Wall, Caucasus, Sugan Range. Strebeyev V.N., August 18, 1995

Passport

1). Technical category 2). Caucasus, Digoria, Sugan Range 3). Galdor Centralny via the S buttress wall (3980) 4). Proposed — 3B cat. diff. combined 5). Height difference 1100 m, length 1300 m, section lengths:

• 3A — 3B cat. diff. — 90 m (buttress),
• 4A cat. diff. — 30 m (inner corner, "Rusty Wall").

Report on the First Ascent by the Team of the Multifaceted Mountaineering Club "FREELINE" from Essentuki

To the Summit of Meshchana Zapadnaya

via the south wall and southwest ridge Presumably 4A category of difficulty. Team Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilich Essentuki, 2019 Addresses:

• 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, ul. Oktyabrskaya, 434, apt. 59, Popov M.L. +7 928 265-71-30, mikl_popov@inbox.ru
• 357524, Stavropol Krai, Pyatigorsk, ul. Fuchika, 8, building 3, apt. 41. Konstantinov G.A. Ph. +7 988 860-73-77, bargest2008@gmail.com

Peak KhFTI-80 via the S ridge. Ovcharenko V.D. Elbrus E ridge # 2.4

Report

On the first ascent of Peak KhFTI-80 via the southern ridge from Assol Pass

Team of climbers from the National Science Center "Kharkov Institute of Physics and Technology"

2009

Passport

1. Elbrus region, Irik-Chat gorge, # 2.4
2. Peak KhFTI-80, height 3760 m; via the southern ridge from Assol Pass; coordinates of the summit: 43°19′16″ ± 10″ N, 42°32′37″ ± 10″ E.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky.