Bashkara — Gadyl traverse, cat. 4A, K. Agger route, I4

From the "Green Hotel" we move along the Jankuat glacier in the direction of the Jantugan plateau and the pass located between the Aristov rocks and the ridge of the Jantugan peak. By-passing the bergschrund on the left, we reach the Jantugan plateau. From the bivouac site, the path to the peak goes southwest across the plateau in the direction of the N-E ridge of Bashkara. At the last slope descending from this ridge (further up, a sheer wall of the Bashkara massif rises), they cross the bergschrund and go along the talus with rocks protruding from it. The "gendarme" is bypassed on the left along easy rocks. Having reached the ridge, you need to pass a small snow bridge that leads directly to the rather steep rocks of the ridge leading to the summit. Without reaching the ridge itself, but sticking to its left side, you need to overcome a number of crevices and chimneys along fairly strong rocks (pitch). Having passed this first stage, they overcome the second, easier belt of rocks, sticking to the left side of the ridge all the way to the summit. The tower encountered on the way is bypassed on the left. Above it lies a small snowpatch, which must be crossed near the rocks. Having gone 20 meters, they turn onto the rocks and reach a small depression that separates the Bashkara peak into two parts:

• The first part is the northern one, which is the highest point of the peak.
• From the lowest point of the peak - the southern one - the ridge goes to the Gadyl peak. The ascent from the bivouac on the Jantugan plateau to the summit takes 9-10 hours. From the Bashkara summit, the path goes to the left along the ridge in the direction of the Gadyl peak. There are a large number of "gendarmeries" on the ridge:
• The 1st is taken head-on,
• The 2nd is bypassed on the right.

п.­ Volnaya Ispania — в.­ Vjedukh. 4А cat.­ diff., traverse, to route 3. Nefedova, 47 The exit to the traverse of п.­ Volnaya Ispania starts with the approach via the normal route to пер.­ Kashka-Tash. The first overnight stay is at the pass. (From AUSV “Dzhantugan” — 6–7 hours). From the pass, ascend a steep icy slope, partially covered with snow (2 hours). After crossing the ice slope, continue along the rocky ridge to the summit. Initially, the path traverses несложным скалам (easy rocks), followed by a snowy ridge where simultaneous movement is possible, requiring careful attention to avoid cornices hanging towards the Kashka-Tash glacier. The first major жандарм (boulder) is bypassed on the right (in the direction of travel), the second — on the left. The rocks along the bypass route are loose. Beyond the жандармы, a significant descent follows, succeeded by a fairly steep ascent up the snowy ridge. This ascent leads to a paired базальтовому жандарму (basalt boulder), ascended directly along the ridge. The descent from it involves a 5–6 m abseil. Immediately beyond the basalt жандарм, after a short narrow saddle with a snowy cornice to the north, begins the “ascent” to the предвершинный гребень (pre-summit ridge) of the “Gogol” жандарм. The ascent is from the left side of the жандарм, exiting onto the ridge just below the highest point. The rocks are difficult, quite brittle, with плитами (slabs), зацепками (holds), and полочками (ledges) of черепичного характера (a tiled nature, facing downwards), averaging 65° steepness. The ascent from the saddle to the top of the жандарм (about 60 m) takes 3 hours. In total, from the pass — 12–13 hours of work. An overnight stay is possible somewhat below the upper жандарм.

65. Traverse of the Donguzorun massif from east to west (route by V. Kabanov, category IIIA difficulty). The path from the "Baksan" alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the Eastern peak of the Donguzorun massif is described in routes 61 and 63. From the Eastern peak, ascent to the Main peak of the massif follows a broad rocky-snow ridge, with occasional steep sections, overcoming small gendarmes directly. Descent from the Main peak follows a snowy ridge with small connecting sections, as well as small gendarmes that can be passed directly, leading to the Western peak. Descent along the southwestern slopes with an overnight stay on a platform under the southwestern ridge of Nakra peak is described in route 56. Duration of the route is 3 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2×30 m, auxiliary cordelette - 2 m, rock pitons - 3-4, ice screws - 4-5, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac sites are practically available on all sections of the main massif's ridge. ("Baksan valley", A.F. Naumov)

17. Traverse of Irikchat from east to west (P. Kovalev's route, category 3A). The path from the "Fork" of the Baksan valley and Adylsu gorge to the initial bivouac on the southern slopes of Irikchat is described in route 14, and the path to the Eastern summit is described in route 15. From the Eastern summit, descend along a plate, a 4-5-meter wall, and moderately difficult rocks to a point below the 2nd gendarme. Traverse 30 m along ledges on the left side (belay!) to bypass the gendarme and reach a platform. From the platform, make a 1.5-meter descent (hanging on hands) to a col. From the col, ascend along a plate with a crack, then 60-80 m along moderately difficult rocks, and 30-35 m along simple ridge

в. Советский воин — в. Кезген — в. Кубасанты! img-0.jpeg Taken on July 2, 1986 at 6:00 PM from the southern spur of в. Кубасанты. Camera "Salut-C", lens "Mir-26B", F=45 mm. ROUTE SCHEME IN LIMB VOLA U I A A:

• Кубасанты
• Советский воин
• 2Б кат. сл., traverse

View of the Ирикчат gorge from в. Череткара

. v. Suaryk (3B), traverse, sk, 3B cat. sl., route by V. Lazebny, 54 The path from the Adal-Su gorge by car to the v. V. Baksan. From the Kyrtyk river valley to the abandoned kosh at the confluence of the Zugull river and the Kyrtyk river. After fording the Zugull river past the kosh, we ascend to the right (orographic) slope of the Zugull river and traverse it at a height of 800–1000 m. From the mouth of the Zugulla, we ford it to the left bank, move along a faintly marked trail above the river to the bivouac site — 1.5–2 km. The bivouac is located under a huge talus descending from the Suaryk peak. The bivouac site is noticeable by a large limestone fragment, on top of which a tourist stone indicator (tur) is built. The path from v. V. Baksan takes 5–6 hours. From the overnight stay, the path goes along the talus (keeping to the left side) and leads under the walls of v. Suaryk.

210. The Big Tsey horseshoe (Adai — Ulargee — Zaromag) (a combined route by K. Korolev, 5B cat. of difficulty). The path from the CSP of the Tsey district (a group of 4–8 people) to the Adai summit is described in route 166. From the Adai summit, descend down the ice-and-snow SW ridge to the first group of rocks, which are bypassed on the right. Then, 40 m down the steep ice-and-snow slope on the right side of the ridge. Then traverse down to the right along the steep ice-and-snow slope to the snow SW ridge. Along the snow ridge with rocky sections of medium difficulty in the lower part, approach the steep rocky ridge. Along the steep, heavily destroyed, simple and medium difficulty rocky ridge descend to a long, gentle ice-and-snow SW ridge, along which approach the rocky "saw". From under the "saw", descend from the ridge 40–50 m to the left and along the ledges, simple and medium difficulty rocks on the left side of the ridge, bypass the "saw" by traversing. Behind it, ascend to the platform of the snow col between the SW ridge of Adai summit and the gendarme "ZIL" of the E ridge of Zaromag summit. From Adai summit — 6–8 hours. From the col, along the wide (80–100 m), steep ridge, approach under the wall of the "ZIL" gendarme. Along the rocks of above medium difficulty on the right side of the wall — ascent to the ridge and along it — exit to the "ZIL" gendarme. The further path to Zaromag summit along the E ridge is described in route 178. From Zaromag, descend along the simple, short, gentle rocky, then snow 200-meter W ridge. Further:

• Descend to the left along the narrow, steep ice-and-snow 300–400-meter couloir, bypassing the rocky drop of the ridge.
• From the couloir, traverse to the right along the snow-covered rocky slopes to exit to the ridge connector.
• From the connector, along the boundary of ice and rocks, bypass two small gendarmes on the left and behind them exit to the col of the snow ridge.

Ascent passport.

1. Rock class.
2. Caucasus, Skalisty Range, Kionsky massif, section in KMGV 2.7.
3. Barzond-Tsagveri West (3337 m) — Central (3350 m) traverse.
4. 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation difference: 700 m. Length about 2 km. Average steepness on the route is about 30°.
6. Hammered in hooks: rock 2/0, закладок 4/0, ice 0/0, bolted 0/0. Left on the route rock — 0; закладок — 0.
7. Team's walking hours — 8, days — 1.

20. Bubis – Songuti, traverse

(combined route, cat. 4B) Ascent to Bubis summit from Tsey–Tbiliski pass via Tbilisa-Mta saddle or by the route of cat. 2B. Descent from Bubis summit to Karaugom pass by the normal route of cat. 2B. From Tsey–Karaugom pass, traverse Double Peak summit (cat. 3B) and the ridge between North Double Peak and Krasnoarmeyets peak via the несложному гребню (easy ridge) of Krasnoarmeyets peak. Descent from Krasnoarmeyets peak by the normal route of cat. 2A and further ascent to Krasnoarmeyets peak by the normal route of cat. 2B. From Krasnoarmeyets peak via an easy rocky ridge to Uilpata-tau peak. From Uilpata-tau peak, descend to Vorobyevsky pass by the route of cat. 4A. From Vorobyevsky pass, ascend to Songuti by the normal route of cat. 4A. Descent from Songuti summit by the ascent route to "Volginskaya nochovka" (by the normal route of cat. 4A).

Sarykol-Bashi 3B cat. sl. traverse height 4,100 m.

The Sarykol-Bashi peak is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge between the Granovskogo Pass (to the north) and the Mestiyisky Pass (to the south). From the hut, we head in the direction of the Granovskogo Pass. After reaching the pass, we go right along a steep snowy couloir, with the gendarme of the first peak remaining on the left. Then we move up along a vaguely expressed rocky ridge. Along the northern ridge of the first gendarme, whose upper part we traverse to the left, and down the broken rocks to a saddle. From the saddle, we climb up along a steep snowy ridge, crossing a small section of rocks. The ascent to the second gendarme is done by traversing to the right along a vaguely expressed slab. Crossing an icy couloir, we reach an internal corner, ascending to the left along difficult rocks. 8–10 m before the peak, there is a control cairn. Descent along simple rocks to a snowy saddle, followed by a steep ascent along a snowy ridge; we traverse to the left and up, and ascend to the eastern peak along simple rocks. After descending from the eastern peak, we cross a saddle and ascend to a wall. We pass the wall on the right side along an internal corner with careful belaying. Behind the wall, we move right along a ledge to a slab-like ridge. After passing several gendarmes, we reach the main peak. Further on the descent:

• We pass two gendarmes (from the second gendarme, we organize a rope descent).
• We successively cross two ruined rocky couloirs.
• We reach a snowfield that leads to the Mestiyisky Plateau. In bad weather, one should beware of thunderstorm discharges on the ridge. Time estimate:
• From the hut to the Granovskogo Pass — 1–1.5 hours