Bashkara — Gadyl traverse, cat. 4A, K. Agger route, I4
From the "Green Hotel" we move along the Jankuat glacier in the direction of the Jantugan plateau and the pass located between the Aristov rocks and the ridge of the Jantugan peak. By-passing the bergschrund on the left, we reach the Jantugan plateau.
From the bivouac site, the path to the peak goes southwest across the plateau in the direction of the N-E ridge of Bashkara. At the last slope descending from this ridge (further up, a sheer wall of the Bashkara massif rises), they cross the bergschrund and go along the talus with rocks protruding from it. The "gendarme" is bypassed on the left along easy rocks. Having reached the ridge, you need to pass a small snow bridge that leads directly to the rather steep rocks of the ridge leading to the summit. Without reaching the ridge itself, but sticking to its left side, you need to overcome a number of crevices and chimneys along fairly strong rocks (pitch). Having passed this first stage, they overcome the second, easier belt of rocks, sticking to the left side of the ridge all the way to the summit. The tower encountered on the way is bypassed on the left. Above it lies a small snowpatch, which must be crossed near the rocks. Having gone 20 meters, they turn onto the rocks and reach a small depression that separates the Bashkara peak into two parts:
- The first part is the northern one, which is the highest point of the peak.
- From the lowest point of the peak - the southern one - the ridge goes to the Gadyl peak.
The ascent from the bivouac on the Jantugan plateau to the summit takes 9-10 hours. From the Bashkara summit, the path goes to the left along the ridge in the direction of the Gadyl peak. There are a large number of "gendarmeries" on the ridge:
- The 1st is taken head-on,
- The 2nd is bypassed on the right.
Under the Gadyl summit, there are platforms for an overnight stay. The path from the Bashkara summit to these platforms takes 2-3 hours. After ascending to Gadyl, the descent begins, which passes to the right of the ridge heading towards Lekzyr-Tau, along easy but very loose rocks. Having passed 2-3 ropes, a descent is organized onto the ridge leading to Lekzyr-Tau. Staying on the ridge, we go along easy, very loose rocks. Great care is necessary. On this ridge:
- The 1st-3rd "gendarmeries" are taken head-on,
- The 4th is on the right.
We reach Lekzyr-Tau. Not reaching the summit, we begin the descent to the Jantugan plateau from the ridge with red platforms. We descend, focusing on the Bashkara-Jantugan saddle. Along the plateau, we go to the right towards the Aristov rocks and then return to the AUSB.
The path along the ridge (view along the ridge)
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