204. Kayarta Glavnaya via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the "Adylsu" alp camp to the Shternberg Pass through the Tyutyusu gorge is described in routes 184 and 203. From the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Kayarta Glavnaya peak. From here, ascend simple and solid ridge rocks. Bypass the first 30-meter-high gendarme on the right (belay!). Beyond it:

• ascend the severely damaged simple rocky ridge,
• then traverse along the right snowy slope to reach the rocky edge of the South shoulder,
• ascend 50–60 m up the moderately difficult rocks of the edge. Then:

Kichkidar-Yunom, combined, 3B

Route description:

The exit is from the Djailyk tourist camp, moving along the right (orographically) bank of the Kulumkol River past the cow shed and further along the moraines to the middle Kichkidar overnight stays near the Yunom glacier. Travel time is 2.5–3 hours. From the middle Kichkidar overnight stays:

• Up the glacier along the ridge, leaving it on the left;
• Exit via easy rocks to the saddle;
• Further up the snow-ice slope in the direction of the left gendarme of the "hare". The bergschrund under the "hare" is usually bypassed on the left. The time taken to move from the middle Kichkidar overnight stays to the left gendarme of the "hare" is 2–2.5 hours. From the left "hare", easy rocks on the pre-summit ridge lead to the summit of Kichkidar. The time taken for this section is approximately 0.5 hours. From the summit of Kichkidar, bypassing the "hares" on the right (belay!!!), move in the direction of the Yunomkara summit, keeping to the right side of the ridge (there may be cornices on the left) until the first gendarme of the three on the ridge, before the wall on the Yunomkara summit. Options for overcoming the gendarmes:

233. Kulak via the Eastern Ridge (combined route by N. Popov, category III difficulty, fig. 18, 28).

From the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4–8 people), ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Kulak River, then cross to the right bank via a bridge and approach the koshu along the trail. Continue along the right-bank moraine of the Kulak glacier. After fording the stream from the Chat glacier, approach the point where the Northwest Branch of the Kulak glacier merges with it from the right. Here, descend from the moraine to the left onto the glacier and, having traversed:

• the Northwest Branch of the Kulak glacier,
• the base of the Eastern Ridge of the Bodorku peak, reach a lake located under the left (southern) side of the base of the Eastern Ridge of the Bodorku peak. A bivouac is possible by the lake. From the "Chegem" tourist base, it takes 5–6 hours. From the lake, cross to the left (south) onto the exposed Western Branch of the Kulak glacier

163. Lekzyr Malaya via North-West ridge (combined route, Cat. III, Fig. 24, 26). From the initial bivouac on the “Morena Lekzyr” sites (point 159) cross the Eastern branch of Lekzyr Glacier (closed crevasses) and ascend on its right side. Pass the lower part of the North-West ridge with gendarmes, turn right, cross the bergschrund, and ascend a steep snow-ice slope (streams) to the North-West ridge of Lekzyr Malaya summit. On the ridge, turn left and follow the icy-snowy North-West ridge (cornices) to approach the snow-covered rocky ascent. Ascend steep snow-covered rocks of the ascent (“live” stones, pitons) — 60–70 m up. Then 100–120 m along the edge of ice and rocks (cornices, belay), then:

169. Lekzyr Severnaya — Lekzyr Yuzhnaya

(combined route, E. Emelyanova, 4A cat. diff., fig. 24, 26). From the summit of Lekzyr Glavnaya (route 165, 166) descend along simple rocky Yuzhny ridge, then along shelves on its right side to the saddle of Yuzhny ridge. From the saddle descend on the left side of the ridge by 3–4 abseils 25–30 m and sport route to a platform. From the platform traverse right along snowy shelves, then along a narrow 20–25-meter couloir (chimney) and steep broken rocks to a platform on the saddle of the massif behind Bolshoy zhendarм. Make a bivouac on the platform. From Glavnaya summit 5–6 hours. From the platform — along simple rocks of the ridge, overcoming small rock towers head-on or

GVANDRA PEAK – 3993 m

1. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak from Ak-Tyube Pass – Cat. 1B
2. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak via the northern edge from Ak-Tyube Glacier – Cat. 2B (Description of the route as you move towards the peak) Difficulties
3. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak – Cat. 1B The path to the bivouac is described in the description of the Kara-Baschi peak. From the bivouac:

• straight across the moraine to the Morde Glacier;

GvandrauZunkol — description of the climbing route "ZA" from SK Greta

Route description:

From the Myrdy bivouac, ascend via scree and moraines to the snowy slopes on the right. Climb the slopes to reach the Myrdy glacier plateau. From the plateau, move towards the Western summit of Myrdy. Ascend via snowy slopes and a wide couloir to the right of the summit to reach the Lozhny Myrdy pass. The Eastern ridge (second from the Ak-Tyube pass) is located opposite this pass. If approaching the ridge from the pass, then:

• Cross the plateau perpendicular to the pass saddle
• Ascend to the right lower part of the ridge rocks via snowy (steep at the top) slopes

Dalar Maly from Dalar Pass, rock, 2B

Route Description:

From Dalar Pass, go left along the ridge's ruined rocks, keeping to the right side, to the first ridge ascent. Climb 30 m to the left onto a wide ridge made of blocks and slabs. Along the 150-meter ridge, then along the wide ridge scree, overcoming the second ridge ascent, approach the first gendarme. Be cautious when bypassing R0–R4, especially if the slabs are covered with snow. Then reach the saddle, bypass the second gendarme and the "Per'ya" gendarme on the right; further, on the right, along the 10-meter wall of the "Shakhmatny kon'" gendarme (when transitioning from the ledge to the wall R12 — loose rocks!) ascend to the "Stolb" gendarme. Bypass "Stolb" along the inclined ledges on the right (water, loose rocks!). From the saddle behind "Stolb", along the ledges to the right of the ridge, reach the summit. From the bivouac on the pass to the summit — 4–6 hours. Descent — along the ascent path to the saddle before the first gendarme R5. From here, go left-down along the scree couloir and scree ledges to the base of the ridge from the southern side. Traverse the base of the ridge to reach Dalar Pass. From the summit — 2.5 hours.

• Departure time from bivouac — 6:00;
• if the descent couloir and subsequent ledges are heavily snow-covered, return to Dalar Pass along the ascent route. DALAR (view from the south)

Dolomit Malyy via the West Face, rock, 3B

Route Description

Before reaching the tongue of the glacier below Dolomit Yuzhnyy Pass, cross the talus slopes to the walls of Dolomit Malyy. The landmark of the route on the wall is a huge couloir running from a large snow-talus cirque of the main ridge of the summit. To the right of the couloir, a wall goes upwards. Its lower part is composed of rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads." Below them are snowy slopes with rocky outcrops. The lower section of the rocks and slopes is largely uniform in appearance and character. Therefore, reaching the first large talus terrace running under the entire Dolomit Malyy wall is not straightforward. One of the wall's blocks is cut by a series of internal corners. Ascend to the R2 terrace via the second internal corner from the ridge within the pronounced black streaks, orienting towards the end of the Dolomit Malyy wall's edge running along the huge couloir from the upper cirque. Traverse along the second terrace to its middle part and exit through a short R5 wall to a short ridge. In its middle section, there is a 40 m traverse to the left across the rocks towards the R8 wall. From here, via a couloir with "live" rocks and a 40-meter R10 wall, then slightly below the buttress of the large couloir, bypassing a corniche on R11, ascend to the confluence of the two R12 couloirs (landmark - a rusty rock on the ridge of the buttress). The rock drops to the couloirs with a huge slab. At the end of the couloirs on a narrow ledge, there is a control cairn. From the ledge, left and upwards via a wide internal corner and ledges on the left side of the ridge, then along the edge of the destroyed rocks across the snowy-talus slopes of the cirque, ascend to the summit. From the lake - 7–10 hours depending on the route's condition.

Dzhailyk via Western Ridge (V. Ruzhevsky route, 5A cat.) The route is sometimes called “Women's Five” or “Dombay Five”, implying easy dry rocks (up to cat. V) that can be realistically climbed in a day even by women. We have a good opinion about women climbers, as this route is not that easy; moreover, in bad weather it becomes virtually impassable, unlike “Monakh”.

• A bivouac can be set up at “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” (Upper Kichkidar Camps) or on the saddle below Donkin Pass.
• From the Western Yunom Glacier, move from the bivouac to the base of the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via the avalanche debris and ice-snow slope of the Central couloir, along the rocks on the left side, approach the first inner corner at the base of the Western Ridge.
• From “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” it takes about 1 hour. From here:
• Up the moderately difficult 30-meter inner corner, then via smoothed steep 40–50-meter slabs ascend to the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via monolithic steep slabs of above-average difficulty with short difficult walls on the Western Ridge, ascend 200–250 m to the Lower Triangle summit plateau.
• From the plateau, 50–60 m up a steep smoothed slab of above-average difficulty, then 30 m up a wall with a chimney-crack to a rock outcrop.