Dzhailyk via Western Ridge (V. Ruzhevsky route, 5A cat.)

The route is sometimes called “Women's Five” or “Dombay Five”, implying easy dry rocks (up to cat. V) that can be realistically climbed in a day even by women. We have a good opinion about women climbers, as this route is not that easy; moreover, in bad weather it becomes virtually impassable, unlike “Monakh”.

• A bivouac can be set up at “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” (Upper Kichkidar Camps) or on the saddle below Donkin Pass.
• From the Western Yunom Glacier, move from the bivouac to the base of the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via the avalanche debris and ice-snow slope of the Central couloir, along the rocks on the left side, approach the first inner corner at the base of the Western Ridge.
• From “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” it takes about 1 hour.

From here:

• Up the moderately difficult 30-meter inner corner, then via smoothed steep 40–50-meter slabs ascend to the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via monolithic steep slabs of above-average difficulty with short difficult walls on the Western Ridge, ascend 200–250 m to the Lower Triangle summit plateau.
• From the plateau, 50–60 m up a steep smoothed slab of above-average difficulty, then 30 m up a wall with a chimney-crack to a rock outcrop.
• From here, via icy steep 60–80-meter rocks of average difficulty, then via an inner corner ascend to a small plateau.
• From the plateau, via slabs and inner corners, ascend 100–120 m to a plateau below the Western Gendarme. Set up a bivouac here.
• From the initial bivouac it takes 7–9 hours.

Further:

• Traverse the Western Gendarme from the right, exiting onto a ridge behind it.
• From the ridge, traverse 180–200 m up and left via steep rocks, ridges alternating with ice-snow sections on the left side of the South Ridge.
• Then, via a steep ice-snow couloir, ascend to a plateau on the South Ridge below the summit rise.
• The further route is described in Inutkin's route.
• From the bivouac below the Western Gendarme to the summit it takes 4–5 hours.

For groups with a good rock leader, Naumov's time schedule can be reduced, and the ascent can be planned as a one-day climb.

Route description from Alexey Vasin's publication on Mountain.Ru