Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus; 2, 6; Sugansky Ridge.
3. Peak, route: p. 3670 (3670 m) from the East via the couloir.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 550 m. route length — 750 m. length of sections:

• 4th difficulty category — 10 m.

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Nadmu Severn. Burzhukla 4338 n. Korocharka r. Boyus Bogos Sevo n. Burevestnik pik Peti r. Vkok Karaugomskoe plato

109. Songuty via the East Face, cat. 4B (Durnov, 1950)

From the Volga River overnight bivouac area, head towards the central couloir that leads to routes 5A and 5Б. (“Attention!” The couloir is not visible from the overnight bivouac area, and for visual reconnaissance, one needs to move to the left part of the upper plateau of Uilpatinsky bottom), move along the right part of the couloir to the rock island, from which turn left onto a ledge leading to a counterfort. 10 m up the несложным ledges of the counterfort to a snowy ridge 10–15 m long. From it, turn left along the ledges and walls under the black streaks forming a zigzag, clearly visible from below, to the next counterfort of the central ridge. Move up the rocks of the counterfort to a snowy saddle, from which a snowy couloir goes left and down. After the saddle, a short wall leads to a large ledge crossing the East Face of Songuty. Along the ledge 150–200 m to the right to a counterfort leading to the 10th tower. Move along the rocks on the left side of the counterfort; in the upper part of the rocks, a 20-meter internal corner leads to a snowy slope (20–30 m), approaching the 10th tower. One can avoid going to the tower and instead move right along a grassy section to the saddle between the 10th tower and the summit. On the saddle, there is a platform for a tent. From the saddle to the summit, it's 80–100 m along the ridge of cat. II–III complexity, with overcoming the “pog” — a smooth 5-meter rock ascent and ridge. On the “nose” of the “pog,” a piton is hammered for passage and belay.

UILPATA

Southwestern ridge Sonnguti pass 110 ㅍ North ridge-slope Northwestern edge Ukhalpatinsky pass 103.12

SOUTH-WEST NORTH RIDGE - SLOPE SONGUTI I NORTH-WEST EDGE EAST BRANCH OF KARAUGOM PLATEAU

5. V. ULARG VIA NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORCE, 5A cat. diff.

ONIANI PEAK WEST RIDGE ARTSYSHHEVSKOGO PEAK ULARG NORTH EDGE II Ridge I Ridge NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORCE

Description of the route to the summit of Tsey-Loam via the SW wall (Trikozov's route), 4A category of difficulty 2.9.54 according to KMGV

Trikozov's route on Tsey-Loam peak in the Dzheyrakh district of Ingushetia is an interesting, moderately complex and technical line. In the first ascenders' report, the category of difficulty is indicated as 3A, while in the FAR classifier, it is listed as 4A category of difficulty. The name "via the NW wall" is a typo; the route actually follows the SW wall. The route is more challenging than the route through a series of chimneys on the right part of the SE wall on Zub peak, 4A category of difficulty, but easier than Donskov's route on the left edge of the SW ridge on Koazoy-Loam peak, 4B category of difficulty. The route is not recommended as a first independent 4A climb: it involves pendulum moves, diagonal belays, and artificial climbing techniques (ITC), and requires navigation skills on the approach and the route. Descending via the ascent route is complicated due to numerous diagonal sections. The approach to the route starts along the grassy slopes immediately behind the Kyazi tourist center in the direction of the SW wall of Tsey-Loam peak (photo 1). The jagged peaks are bypassed on the left via grassy ledges. The route's landmark is the couloir running along the SW wall and a massive plug at its beginning (photo 3). Photo 1. Approach from Kyazi tourist center. Internet photograph R0–R1: A 10 m wall of easy climbing, bypassing the plug in the couloir, followed by 600 m along the couloir. Scree, "ram's foreheads," and hard firn at the beginning of May. The simple terrain leads out to the right from the couloir onto the R1 ridge between the wall and the rocky ridge (photo 4). The main couloir continues upwards (photo 5). R1–R2: 60 m upwards of easy climbing.

Dolomit Malyy via the West Face, rock, 3B

Route Description

Before reaching the tongue of the glacier below Dolomit Yuzhnyy Pass, cross the talus slopes to the walls of Dolomit Malyy. The landmark of the route on the wall is a huge couloir running from a large snow-talus cirque of the main ridge of the summit. To the right of the couloir, a wall goes upwards. Its lower part is composed of rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads." Below them are snowy slopes with rocky outcrops. The lower section of the rocks and slopes is largely uniform in appearance and character. Therefore, reaching the first large talus terrace running under the entire Dolomit Malyy wall is not straightforward. One of the wall's blocks is cut by a series of internal corners. Ascend to the R2 terrace via the second internal corner from the ridge within the pronounced black streaks, orienting towards the end of the Dolomit Malyy wall's edge running along the huge couloir from the upper cirque. Traverse along the second terrace to its middle part and exit through a short R5 wall to a short ridge. In its middle section, there is a 40 m traverse to the left across the rocks towards the R8 wall. From here, via a couloir with "live" rocks and a 40-meter R10 wall, then slightly below the buttress of the large couloir, bypassing a corniche on R11, ascend to the confluence of the two R12 couloirs (landmark - a rusty rock on the ridge of the buttress). The rock drops to the couloirs with a huge slab. At the end of the couloirs on a narrow ledge, there is a control cairn. From the ledge, left and upwards via a wide internal corner and ledges on the left side of the ridge, then along the edge of the destroyed rocks across the snowy-talus slopes of the cirque, ascend to the summit. From the lake - 7–10 hours depending on the route's condition.