. v. Suaryk (3B), traverse, sk, 3B cat. sl., route by V. Lazebny, 54
The path from the Adal-Su gorge by car to the v. V. Baksan. From the Kyrtyk river valley to the abandoned kosh at the confluence of the Zugull river and the Kyrtyk river. After fording the Zugull river past the kosh, we ascend to the right (orographic) slope of the Zugull river and traverse it at a height of 800–1000 m. From the mouth of the Zugulla, we ford it to the left bank, move along a faintly marked trail above the river to the bivouac site — 1.5–2 km.
The bivouac is located under a huge talus descending from the Suaryk peak. The bivouac site is noticeable by a large limestone fragment, on top of which a tourist stone indicator (tur) is built.
The path from v. V. Baksan takes 5–6 hours.
From the overnight stay, the path goes along the talus (keeping to the left side) and leads under the walls of v. Suaryk.
From the slope of v. Suaryk in the area of the first gendarme of the sculptural couloir. We move towards the first couloir. The exit to it is an inclined plate — 5 m. Along the right part of the couloir, we ascend easily to the saddle between the first and second gendarmes. The bivouac takes 4–5 hours. The second gendarme is bypassed on the left side (from the north along the shelves). Insurance is provided through ledges. From the saddle between the second gendarme and the western summit, the path goes along the ridge over rocks of medium difficulty. There is one difficult place — a smooth, inclined, sharp ridge crest, which is traversed on friction using piton insurance. The descent from v. Z. Suaryk goes along the ridge to the saddle between the western and eastern summits, setting up a rappel. From the saddle, the path goes along the ridge. The gendarme is bypassed along the way on a snow patch. Further, there is a simple section. Talus through easy rocks leads to v. V. Suaryk (2 hours). The saddle between V. Suaryk and Banda is traversed by rappel — 4. At the beginning of the descent from V. Suaryk, it is necessary to bear to the right; simple talus to the left ends with steep couloirs and rocks. From the saddle, we enter a couloir 300–860 m long; rocks — proceed with caution and variable insurance. The entire traverse takes 13–15 hours.
