Report

On the Ascent

FOR THE 1970 USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP BY THE TEAM FROM THE "TSEI" ALPINE CAMP UNDER THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE "TRUD" SPORTS SOCIETY TO THE SUMMIT OF CHANCHAKHI-KHOKH (4420 m) VIA THE NORTH FACE (NORTHEAST FACE OF THE CENTRAL BASTION) (FIRST ASCENT) Team Captain: GRIGORENKO-PRIGODA Yu.I.

Team List

| № | Surname, First Name, Patronymic | Year of Birth | Rank | Place of Work and Position | Party Membership | Nationality | Home Address | a/Best Ascent and Year; b/Best Ascent in the Last 2 Years |

REPORT

on the first ascent to the peak of Pavel Fitin via the Northwest ridge, category 3A difficulty level, by the team of the alpinism club "Cascade", from August 4 to 6, 2020. 2020

1. Ascent Passport

Route Description for Climbing Arkhon Maly Peak (3942 m)

Category II-B difficulty. The peak is located in the Teplinskaya group of the Front Range of the Greater Caucasus, on the northeastern spur of Kolota, immediately adjacent to the Arkhon Glavny peak (4253 m) to the southwest. The first ascent to Arkhon Maly was made by a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze led by N. Alchiev on May 29, 1966, from the Fiagdon valley via the southwest ridge. Day I. Traveling from Ordzhonikidze through the Kurtatinskoye gorge to the confluence of the Fiagdon and Dzamarashdon rivers takes 2 hours 30 minutes. Cross the Fiagdon River via a bridge near a watchtower and follow the trail up to the first hanging valley (on the left orographic slope of the gorge). The ascent proceeds up a grassy slope, which becomes quite steep at the top, leading to a moraine hill. The moraine ridge is sharp, with avalanche debris from Glavny Arkhon on both sides. On the first day, the ascent reaches an absolute height of 3000 m. At the junction of the moraine and the slope, a bivouac is set up on a small site. The ascent to the bivouac takes 3 hours. Day II. Depart at 5:00 AM. After proceeding 100 m along the moraine, turn right and ascend the slope to the eastern buttress of the northeastern ridge of Arkhon. Upon reaching the ridge of the buttress:

• form a rope team;
• move up the ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Skalisty Range, Classification section number 2.8.
2. Dashtsar (2918 m) — via the left part of the West wall.
3. Proposed category: 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock.
5. Route height difference — 350 m (from point R0). Total route length — 700 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 8 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 95°. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 60°.
6. Pitons left on the route — none. Pitons used on the route — 12. Chocks used on the route — 12.

Route Description

Ascent to the Nameless peak (4000 m above sea level) (Peak "Iriston") 1A category of difficulty. The peak is located in the watershed ridge (between the Genaldon and Chachkhi river basins) connecting the Kazbek firn plateau with the Chach-khokh peak (4100 m). The immediate neighbors of the peak in the ridge are from south to north:

• Ordzhonikidzevskaya railway peak (4300 m)
• Chach-khokh. The first ascent was made on October 25, 1964 from the Chach gorge by a group of the Spartak Council of the DSO in the amount of 7 people led by L. Tabolov. Day 1. The group reaches the village of Gvileti by car, from where it takes no more than 1 hour of walking along a dirt road to the confluence of the Kabakhi and Chachkhi rivers. After crossing the pedestrian bridge over the Kabakhi River and overcoming the steep ascent of the trail, they head along the trail to the right (Chach) gorge. The trail leads to the second bridge, which should be crossed to the left (orographic) bank of the Chachkhi River. Here, on the slope, there are many trails, which, however, all lead to the gate of the Chach gorge (height difference of about 300-400 m). In this area, it is recommended to navigate to a single birch tree growing under the wall of the first "gate", heading higher up the slope. Having overcome the "ram's foreheads" of the "gate" along one of the shelves dividing them, one should:
• go up along the grassy slope to a group of trees,

Malaya Kaidzhany (3700 m)

via the Eastern ridge, Cat. 1B–2A The summit is situated on the eastern boundary of the Central Caucasus. It is the northernmost summit in the northern spur of Pik Spartaka.

• To the south, Malaya Kaidzhany is connected by a ridge to Severная Kaidzhany (3969).
• To the north, a long ridge descends to Sanibanskii pass (1800 m).
• To the east, the Eastern ridge steeply descends into the Darial gorge. The summit was first ascended by B. Gолубев's team in 1947, traversing the Kaidzhany massif from the north. The Eastern ridge was climbed by V. Kuprin's team in 1971, and has been repeated several times since. Departure from Ordzhonikidze along the Military Georgian Highway to Verkhnii Lars village. 200–300 m before Verkhnii Lars, a trail (abandoned road) branches off to the right into the Belaya Rechka gorge. Be cautious on the trail, as the slopes of the Belaya Rechka gorge are steep. After 2–2.5 hours of walking, the trail joins another one descending from the right slope at a wider part of the gorge, and follows it onto the Eastern ridge of Malaya Kaidzhany. The broad, grassy ridge-koши offers good camping spots. The camping altitude is 2000 m (according to the altimeter). The path continues along the ridge. The ridge:
• is steep and grassy at the beginning of the ascent;

Description of the ascent route to the summit Severnaia Kaidzhany via the North Ridge, category 2A. Day 1. From the village Ordzhonikidze to the village Verkhnii Lars via the Military Georgian Road (32 km) - about an hour's drive. Within the village, a small left tributary - Belaya Rechka - flows into the Terek River. You need to move west along the gorge of this stream. The trail steeply winds its way up the left bank, gaining height. After 1.5-2 hours of walking, you exit the forest zone and after another hour, you reach a wide trough in the upper reaches of the gorge, where you can set up a bivouac. You can also organize a bivouac an hour's walk further up the gorge, having climbed the high hills of the ancient terminal moraine of the glacier. Day 2. Early start. Move in the direction of the canyon, compressed by "ram's foreheads". It takes about an hour to walk to the canyon across the scree slopes. The canyon can be traversed along the left side (simple climbing on "ram's foreheads" in a rope team) or along the right side, traversing the scree slopes of the East Ridge of S. Kaidzhany. After about 200 meters, you enter a more gentle part of a wide trough-like couloir, which the canyon leads to. Having walked 150 m along the bottom of the "trough" and across simple, ruined rocks, you reach the shoulder of the North Ridge of the summit. A snowy 100-meter ridge leads to a 40-50-meter rocky ascent with a steepness of about 60°. The rocks are extremely ruined (shales), and the protection is hook-based (pitons with long blades). The ascent leads to a 100-meter sharp shale ridge, steeply rising (45°) towards the summit of Severnaia Kaidzhany. The ridge is partially covered with snow, and the rocks are very fragile.

North Kaidzhany from the East

PD - PD+ cat. diff. The Kaidzhany massif is part of the Kazbek group of peaks in the Central Caucasus. North Kaidzhany is located in the northern spur of Peak Spartak. The summit is a nodal point. The northern ridge leads to Malaia Kaidzhany (3700 m), the southwestern ridge leads to South Kaidzhany (3916 m), and the southeastern ridge leads to Peak 25th anniversary of SKGMI (3870 m). The following routes are laid on North Kaidzhany:

1. From the South from Chachskoye gorge — 1B cat. diff.
2. Along the Northern ridge with exit from the gorge of the Belaya River. — PD cat. diff. The route along the Eastern edge from the Belaya River gorge was first climbed on August 5, 1973, by a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze led by R. P. Proskuryakov. The ascent with return to Ordzhonikidze takes 1.5 days.

Terrain

Drive along the Military Georgian Road to the village of Verkhniy Lars (1200 m above sea level). To the right, before the village, the Belaya River flows into the Terek River. Walk along the trail along the left bank for about 3 hours to the area of the trough-shaped expansion of the gorge.

Approach Description

From the confluence of the Zaki and Zrug rivers along the dirt road that runs along the Zrug River to the ruins of the church. About 20 km. A kilometer upstream, the river splits into two tributaries:

• Follow the right tributary eragrafically for 1.5 hours to the kosh.
• Then, head right along the stream (eragrafically, the left side of the gorge).
• Enter a small cirque formed by two ridges of p. Skryabina. Bivouac is possible. From the church, it takes 4–4.5 hours.

Route Description

P. Skryabina via the North Ridge, category III difficulty. From the bivouac, head right onto the ridge. Then, along the ridge for 250–300 m (R0–R1), category I difficulty. After that, the ridge turns into a mountain slope with minor ascents (R1–R2), 100 m, category II difficulty.

Report on the Traverse of Peaks: Suatissi — p. Geologov — Jimaray — Shau-khok — Druzhba — Zaygelan

Team of the Central Council of the DSO "Krasnoye Znamya" Coach NARKEVICH F.V. Captain PRAZDNIKOV V.A. Minsk 1965 Scheme of the traverse of peaks "Suatissi — peak 4392 — Jimaray — Shau-khok — peak Druzhba — Zaygelan". Team of the Central Council of the DSO "Krasnoye Znamya", Minsk. Legend: visible path, invisible path, bivouac locations, route sections. "It's better to quarrel with Kazbek than to drink tea with Jimaray" Ossetian proverb