Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: 2.4.1. Caucasus, Chegem gorge
2. Peak name: Chegem (4461 m) via the NE wall of the NE ridge (Forostyan's route)
3. Difficulty category: 6A
4. Route characteristics: rock
5. Route elevation gain: 1160 m Route length: 1700 m Section lengths:
   • cat. V difficulty – 200 m
   • cat. VI difficulty – 260 m

Russian Mountaineering Championship 2020 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents.

Report

on the ascent to Chegem peak 4351 m via the NE wall, NE ridge (Forostyan's route), 6A category of complexity by the team from Samara region and Moscow for the period from August 12 to 13, 2020.

1. Ascent Passport

Moscow City Climbing Championship

In the High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On ascending to the summit of Chegem (4351 m) via the route on the northeast wall of the northeast ridge (V. Forostyana) 6A category of complexity by the KAIS MEI team For the period from August 5, 2020, to August 7, 2020 Climbing and Mountaineering Club of Moscow Power Engineering Institute

I. Climbing Passport

1984. CLASS OF TECHNICAL ASCENTS

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF CHEGEM (4461 m) ALONG THE NE EDGE OF THE N-E RIB, APPROXIMATELY 5B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF INSTRUCTORS FROM THE "ULLUTAU" ALPINE CAMP. A. Kurochkin, V. Ivashkin, A. Lukonenko, V. Poliansky, A. Sayapin, V. Smirnov July 31 – August 4, 1984. Team Leader: Kurochkin A.G. Team Coach: Porokhnya Yu.I. 361602, KBAASSR, Verkhny Baksan settlement, "Ullutau" alpine camp 360017, Nalchik, Kirova st., 12, apt. 50 Porokhnya Yu.I. 364046, Grozny, Verkhoyanskaya st., 4A, apt. 99 Kurochkin A.G.

Ascent Record

1. Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge, section 2.4 according to CMGA.
2. Bashkara peak, 4241 m, via the North Face.
3. Claimed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Nature of the route — combined.
5. Elevation gain of the route 540 m. Route length 926 m. Length of sections:

• 5th category of difficulty — 345 m;
• 6th category of difficulty — 51 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 70°, entire route — 55°.

6. Pitons left on the route: total 0

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak — Bashkara (4241 m) via the N wall of the 3rd shoulder.
4. Difficulty category — 6A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 935 m.
   • wall section length — 400 m.
   • height difference — 741 m.
   • average steepness 53°.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge, section 2.4.32.
2. Volnaya Ispaniya peak, 4271 m, via N wall (V. Kizel, 1952).
3. Difficulty category — 5B.
4. Route character — combined.
5. Route height difference — 500 m; Route length — 800 m; Length of sections:
   • V difficulty category — 55 m
   • VI difficulty category — 40 m

CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CENTRAL AND NORTH-WESTERN FEDERAL DISTRICTS

class - high-altitude technical

REPORT

On the ascent to the summit Volnaya Ispaniya (4163 m) via the North-Eastern edge (Subortovich route) 5B cat. sl. by the team "Center" August 7, 2024

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

49. Traverse of the Gadyl - Bashkara ridge (O. Aristov's route, category 4A, fig. 29, 30, 31). The path from the Djantugan alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Gadyl peak is described in route 144. From Gadyl, traverse along the simple, partially ruined rocks of the long, jagged, almost horizontal, snow-covered ridge, bypassing all the gendarmes on the left, to reach the South shoulder of Bashkara peak. From the shoulder, rappel, then descend along the simple ridge to the saddle. Further, along the snowy ridge, exit under the 2nd gendarme. Bypass the gendarme along the ledges on the left (belay!). Then, along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge, overcoming the 1st gendarme directly, ascend to the summit of Bashkara. From the Gadyl peak, 3 hours. Descent along the Northeast ridge (see route 142). Duration of the route is 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2 × 30 m, auxiliary cord - 4 m, rock pitons - 6-8, ice pitons - 3-4, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8-10, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac sites - on the platforms on the left side of the main ridge (see also routes 142, 144).

Passport

I. Ice and snow class. 2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range. 3. p. Germogenova, 3993 m, according to S V Caucasus 4. Proposed category: 4A. 5. Height difference — 513 m. Length of sections with 4th category difficulty — 155 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 51°. 6. Number of ice screws used for belay — 76. 7. Moving time — 6 hours. 8. Without overnight stays.