I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Eastern Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range 3. Mamisontau (4358 m) — through the center of the northern wall triangle 4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff. combined (first ascent) 5. Height difference — 918 m including the "triangle" — 490 m. Length — 1410 m. Length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 845 m, including 6 cat. diff. — 175 m. Sections:

• 3518–3534
• 3596–3694
• 3730–3770

65. Severnaia via the Eastern ridge

The route is a combined one by A. Meshcheryakov, category 3A, fig. 88, 89, 101, 102. Length 700–800 m, duration 7–9 hours. From Vladikavkaz (group of 2–8 people), take a bus for 1.5–2 hours to the village of Kharisdzhin. From the village, walk 1.5–2 km upstream along the gorge road to the right tributary of Fiagdon - the Tsadzhiau River. Cross the river and turn right, ascending via a serpentine trail on the left bank until the gorge turns left to the south. Here, cross the Tsadzhiau River and follow the trail of an old overgrown road on the right bank to approach a mountain lake. The base camp is located on the lake's shore. The journey from the road takes 2.5–3 hours, and from the village of Kharisdzhin - 3–4 hours. From the lake, follow the wide, even bottom of the gorge to reach the terminal moraine of the Tsadzhiau Glacier. From here, there are two options to ascend to the Eastern shoulder of the Eastern ridge of Severnaia peak. First option:

• Turn right on the moraine and ascend via scree and easy, crumbling rocks on the right slope to the Southeast buttress of the Eastern ridge.
• Turn right here and ascend via easy, crumbling rocks and scree on the Southeast buttress to the Eastern shoulder of the Eastern ridge. Second option:
• Proceed along the right moraine upstream through the gorge for several hundred meters, approaching an overhanging rock on the right. A base camp is possible under this rock. The journey from the lake takes 1.5–2 hours.
• From the rock, ascend upstream through the gorge and, bypassing the base of the Southeast buttress of the Eastern ridge, turn right.

Passport

I. Technical climbing category 2. South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin ridge (southern spur) 3. Pik Moskovskoy Pravdy, main summit 6075 m. 4. 6B (presumably) 5. Height difference 1300 m. 6. Length of sections 5 and 6 cat. diff. – 1020 m (5 – 690, 6 – 330) 7. Average steepness 71–72° 8. Pitons hammered: rock 142, ice 9, bolt 2, chocks 185; used for belays: rock 44, bolt 2, chocks 73. 9. Climbing hours — 49.5

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude and technical.
2. Climbing area: South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — TGU peak, 6183 m, center of the W wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1240 m. length of sections 5–6 km tr 1018 m average steepness 78° steepness of the most difficult sections 82–84°.

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. South-West Pamir, Shabo valley.
3. Peak Engels via the north wall (Gaas route, 1974). 2nd ascent in 1976. 3rd ascent.
4. 6B category of difficulty, 2nd ascent.
5. Height difference — 1950 m. (1560 m). Main part height difference — 1150 m (b.sh – ridge). Length — 2305 m. Length of 6A and 6B sections — 365 m. Average steepness:

Ча­сов processed this section of the path (7 ropes). The detour was made with thorough piton protection and using sport rappel (1 rope, an ice axe with a loop was left). Further, handrails were hung (2 ropes) traversing the wall to the snow-ice mulda. After a short horizontal section of the ridge, the first drop was followed by:

• another drop, one rope,
• then a mulda. Further, again, there was a horizontal section with a cornice and a very steep slope. Having ascended the wall to the mulda, the "two" cut steps along the ridge below the line of cornice break-off for three to four ropes and returned back to the remaining group at 18:00. The remaining "three" were busy with:

59а

1. Ascent Passport

1. High-altitude technical climb
2. Pamir, eastern spurs of Yazgulemsky Ridge, Khavraz-Dara valley
3. Peak Kholodnaya Stena via the central bastion of the north face
4. Proposed 5B category of complexity, first ascent
5. Wall section height difference: 1260 m, length: 1450 m. Total height difference: 1500 m, total length: 2000 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity: 830 m. Average steepness of main sections: 74° (5000–5650 m), including 280 m of 6th category complexity.
6. Pitons used:

Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the ancient moraine of Manshuk Mametova Glacier Alpengrad — follow the right side of the glacier to the foot of the western counterfort of the summit. The route begins with overcoming an ice slope up to 100 m long and 45° steepness (running belay, 3 hooks). The first rocky section (up to 40 m) is bypassed on the left through shelves (running belay, 2 hooks and through ledges). The ascent continues up to the right along the left side of the ice-snow couloir with 45° steepness, up to 60 m long. Climb to the ridge of the counterfort. Simultaneous movement is possible on this section. Further, along the left side of the snow-ice couloir, exit under the pre-summit ridge (if ice is exposed in the couloir, step cutting is necessary, belay is running). The next section of the route — up to the right with an exit to the summit ridge and the summit itself. When moving, pay special attention to the large number of "live" rocks. Descent via Mametova Glacier or through Antikainen summit.

Ascent to Sportivnaya peak from the northwest via Sportivny glacier, route 2nd cat. dif. From Talgar alpine camp:

• East along the trail
• Past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge
• Turn right
• Initially along the grassy slope
• Then along the large moraine stones of Sportivny glacier The moraine has elevation changes. Overnight stay on the moraine. From the overnight site, reach the snowy slope of the ridge branching off from Sportivnaya peak

To the Classification Commission of the USSR Alpine Federation

REPORT

on the first ascent to the Sofruju peak via the southern wall on July 27-29, 1972

I. Group Composition:

Gubanov Yu. D. — leader, Candidate for Master of Sports, senior instructor of the Dombay region Climbing School, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement. Prima Yu. V. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, radio instructor of the Dombay region Climbing School, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement. Khamtsov A. P. — participant, 1st class, junior instructor, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement, Alibek alpine camp worker. Support group led by Candidate for Master of Sports Vorobyev D. G., parallel route on the Main Amanauz peak via the southern wall, category 5B difficulty.

II. Alpine and Geographical Overview of the Sofruju Massif.