ROCK peak via N ridge (via Kündüm-Mijirgi pass) Initial bivouac — on the SW spur of Panoramnyi peak (3900 m). Route:

• From the bivouac, cross the left tributary of the glacier and ascend the snowy-icy slope left of the icefall to the cirque of Kündüm-Mijirgi pass.
• Ascend to the ridge via the couloir right of the pass "gendarme" from the bivouac in 1.5–2 hours.
• Along the ridge of sharp slabs, directly to the first "gendarme", then along the ridge below the wall.
• Up and left along the wall for 7–8 m to a ledge (pitons), from it right and up via a crack to the pre-summit ridge.
• Along the ledges right of the ridge for 70–80 m to the summit.
• From the saddle in 1.5–2 hours. Descent: via the ascent route to the bivouac in about 2 hours.

Tjutyrgu Peak S.

Day 1.

From the Bezengi alpine camp, the trail goes along the right (orographically) coastal moraine of Bezengi Glacier to Misses-kosh. From Misses-kosh, the entire path to the Tjutyrgu cirque is clearly visible. A wide couloir with two rock steps resembling sheep's foreheads is visible. Two streams flow through the couloir, merging into one at the lower step. After crossing Bezengi Glacier, one needs to:

• ascend to its left-bank moraine to the right of the gully formed by the stream;
• cross the stream under the sheep's foreheads and skirt them on the grassy slopes on the left;
• before reaching the second step, cross the stream again via a snow bridge and ascend between the streams — first on grassy slopes, then on moraine. In its upper part, the couloir turns left, widens, and flattens, turning into a cirque. The cirque is bounded by the peaks, from right to left:
• Tjutyrgu;
• MVTU;

4. Ukyu via NW ridge, 3A category

The ascent to the saddle between Gidan and Ukyu is described in route 2. From the saddle, traverse right, bypassing the first rocks along a snowy slope and then along a wide, crumbling ridge to the wall of the 1st "gendarme." Traverse left along a 6–7 m inclined ledge and then climb 20–25 m with piton protection up a steep internal angle (caution! — ice is possible) to a ridge with good rock features. Continue along the line of the gentle ridge with solid and reliable rock features (caution! — do not descend to the left onto ledges below the ridge — the rocks here are heavily broken and the features are unreliable). Descend from the upper point along a rocky ridge and snowy slope to a wide saddle. In an emergency, it is possible to abandon the route from here via the S couloir. From the saddle, ascend to the summit of Maly Ukyu across snow and simple rocks (caution — ice is possible). Continue along the ridge and descend to the left of the ridge along a rocky couloir and snowy slope to a pre-summit saddle. It is also possible to abandon the route from here via the second S couloir. From the saddle, ascend a 40–50 m snow-ice slope, then traverse rocks on a wide ridge to a gentle "shoulder." From there, ascend a snowy-icy slope to the S ridge. Traverse left along the ridge for 30–40 m to the summit. The ascent from the saddle takes 6–8 hours. Descend along the SE ridge as described previously. Hazardous locations: on ledges to the left of the ridge, beyond the 1st "gendarme," the rocks are heavily broken. Special equipment:

• 5–7 rock pitons
• 2–3 ice screws
• crampons for all participants

21. Ulluuaz via West Ridge — Cat. 4A (A. Baldin, N. Alkhutov, T. Baldina, and Yu. Smirnov — August 10, 1958). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the Southern ridge of the Utug pinnacle is described in — 18. From the bivouac on the ridge, descend to the snow plateau of the glacier, above the third stage of the icefall. From here, move left and upwards, parallel to the Southern ridge, towards a wide (25–30 m) snow couloir of the West ridge of Ulluuaz peak, to the right of the Utug pinnacle. Up the snow couloir (in teams!), bypassing the rocks in the couloir on the right, 250–300 m upwards, and then across the talus — exit from the couloir onto the lower saddle of the West ridge of Ulluuaz peak. From the saddle:

• to the right across talus, snow (cautiously — cornices!) and easy rocks — ascent to the first ridge rise;
• further up the easy ridge rocks, then up the ice-snow rise — ascent to below the “Pila” wall (a series of rocky pinnacles). Under the wall:
• initially 90–100 m up and to the right along ledges and slabs, 60–70 m short of the right edge of the wall;
• then 35–40 m left and upwards along a snow ledge;

3. Ural 3 — v, traverse, 4B.

From the Ukju-kosh hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the KSP Golubjatnja bivouac, then along the M. Ukju glacier to the slope leading to Ural pass — 1.5–2 hours. Up the middle of the snow-ice slope (attention: covered crevasses, rockfall hazard at the edges, especially to the left of the first "gendarme" of the 3rd ridge of Ural peak) into the hollow under the pass, from it — up the steep ice-snow slope (30–40 m) to the pass; from the glacier — 1–1.5 hours. From the pass, ascend left to a gendarme, then along the ridge to the col under the wall of the 3rd summit; a bivouac site is possible here. From the pass — 1 hour. From the col, 4 m left and up to a square boulder, up the inner corner (or left of it) to a ledge, along it 4–5 m, right of a rock awning 5 m up to a trough-like ledge, left and up under a red rock. Right of it, up the corner and on the right side of the wall to a control cairn (35 m from the col). From the cairn, up the slabs and along ledges traversing left under the wall, along the ridge to a red "gendarme" and bypassing it on the left. Behind the "gendarme", straight up 5 m via a chimney and 15 m up the inner corner, then 7–8 m up smooth rocks to a slab with a 40° slope. Along the lower edge of the slab, traverse 15–17 m along a crevasse to the right, up the slab along a vertical wall, 3 m up an overhanging wall (artificial aid) and another 20 m up monolithic rocks to the summit ridge. Along the ridge for 60 m to the 3rd summit. From the col — 4–6 hours. Descent to the E — 40 m rappel, then along the snowy ridge under the E summit. Ascent to the E summit along the ridge; 40 m before the summit, traverse right along a ledge and, bypassing the summit from the S, reach the shoulder of its E ridge.

209. The 4310 m peak via the Northeast ridge (a combined route, category B. Solovyov, 3B category of difficulty, fig. 18, 25). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp (a group of 4-8 people) to the upper plateau of the Western branch of the Bezengi glacier with a starting bivouac at the Kel pass is described in route 215. Across the plateau, approach the right side of the Northeast ridge of the 4310 m peak. From the glacier, ascend an 80-90-meter slope to a saddle on the Northeast ridge of the 4310 m peak. On the saddle, turn right and traverse along the left side of the Northeast ridge to cross a 10-meter ice-and-snow couloir (rockfall, avalanches). Ascend 100-150 m up and left along simple rocks and ledges on the left side of the couloir to reach the Northeast ridge. From here, ascend 50-60 m on simple rocks. Then, ascend 120-150 m along the steep ice-and-snow Northeast ridge, leaving a gendarme on the left and ice drops on the right, to reach an ice-and-snow pad. From the pad, ascend 80-100 m up a steep ice-and-snow Northeast ridge (cornices, protection) to approach a wall. Under the wall, traverse 20-25 m left along the boundary of rocks and snow. Then, ascend 60-70 m up and right on moderately difficult rocks to reach the Northeast ridge. Further, ascend 30-40 m to the 4310 m peak. From the Kel pass - 7-9 hours.

Open Summer Championship of St. Petersburg on mountaineering 2004

Report

on the ascent to v. Galdor Main (4130 m) by the Southeast wall, 5B category of difficulty of the youth team of St. Petersburg on mountaineering Head Coach Koltunov O. S. Lobachev E. A.

2004

Contact Information:

Galdor Centralny, 3980 m, via the South Buttress Wall, Caucasus, Sugan Range. Strebeyev V.N., August 18, 1995

Passport

1). Technical category 2). Caucasus, Digoria, Sugan Range 3). Galdor Centralny via the S buttress wall (3980) 4). Proposed — 3B cat. diff. combined 5). Height difference 1100 m, length 1300 m, section lengths:

• 3A — 3B cat. diff. — 90 m (buttress),
• 4A cat. diff. — 30 m (inner corner, "Rusty Wall").

Trapeziya Peak – 3800 m

Ascent to the Main summit via the wall of the Eastern ridge — category 4A.

Description of the ascent route to the summit

The path from the camp to the upper Trapeziya glacier plateau can be found in the description of category 2A route. Across the plateau to the foot of the Eastern ridge. At the bottom of the snowy slope, cross the bergschrund and continue ascending on snow (55°), 70–80 m, belay! To the base of a 1.5 m rusty streak running through the entire visible massif of rocks left-up-right. Up the rocks (many loose stones!) in the direction of the streak (belay! Pitons!). Along the streak up 140–150 m (pitons!) to an inclined ledge running in the same direction. Along the ledge, 130–140 m to its end (pitons!) at the level of the couloir throat — a control cairn. To the right of the ledge is a couloir — DO NOT ENTER — (stones, avalanches from the pre-summit depression!). From the end of the ledge left-up 180 m (belay! Pitons!) on rocks to a black overhanging wall under the ridge. The wall is a system of snow-ice couloirs separated by steep rocky ridges. Ascent up the rocks “Belay! Very tense climbing! Pitons!”. Behind the wall is an exit to the ridge slabs and along them to a black wet wall on the ridge “control cairn”. Bypass this wall (40 m) to the right along the boundary of rocks and a steep (more than 45°) snow patch and again exit to the snowy ridge (pitons!). Along the steep snowy ridge (80 m, belay!) ascent to the summit. From the base of the Eastern ridge to the summit is 14–16 hours. There are no bivouac sites on the entire route to the summit. Descent from the summit via category 2B route to the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours. The number of participants in the group is not more than 4 people. Initial bivouac — lake under Trapeziya glacier.

Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• rope — 2 × 40 m;
• expendable cordelette — 10 m;

Ascent Passport.

1. Region — West Caucasus, Uzunkol valley.
2. Peak Trapezia (Main/3743 m/) via East wall
3. Route category — 5B, first ascent
4. Route description: height difference — 450 m average slope 60°, length of sections 5B–6B –350 m
5. Pitons hammered on ascent: rock — 80 (10 left in place)
6. Number of climbing hours — 14 + 4 processing 1978, July 12 — approach to the route I3; July 14 — route processing — I20;