3. Ural 3 — v, traverse, 4B.

From the Ukju-kosh hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the KSP Golubjatnja bivouac, then along the M. Ukju glacier to the slope leading to Ural pass — 1.5–2 hours.

Up the middle of the snow-ice slope (attention: covered crevasses, rockfall hazard at the edges, especially to the left of the first "gendarme" of the 3rd ridge of Ural peak) into the hollow under the pass, from it — up the steep ice-snow slope (30–40 m) to the pass; from the glacier — 1–1.5 hours.

From the pass, ascend left to a gendarme, then along the ridge to the col under the wall of the 3rd summit; a bivouac site is possible here. From the pass — 1 hour.

From the col, 4 m left and up to a square boulder, up the inner corner (or left of it) to a ledge, along it 4–5 m, right of a rock awning 5 m up to a trough-like ledge, left and up under a red rock. Right of it, up the corner and on the right side of the wall to a control cairn (35 m from the col). From the cairn, up the slabs and along ledges traversing left under the wall, along the ridge to a red "gendarme" and bypassing it on the left. Behind the "gendarme", straight up 5 m via a chimney and 15 m up the inner corner, then 7–8 m up smooth rocks to a slab with a 40° slope. Along the lower edge of the slab, traverse 15–17 m along a crevasse to the right, up the slab along a vertical wall, 3 m up an overhanging wall (artificial aid) and another 20 m up monolithic rocks to the summit ridge. Along the ridge for 60 m to the 3rd summit. From the col — 4–6 hours.

Descent to the E — 40 m rappel, then along the snowy ridge under the E summit. Ascent to the E summit along the ridge; 40 m before the summit, traverse right along a ledge and, bypassing the summit from the S, reach the shoulder of its E ridge.

(Attention! Do not descend S along the ledge starting in the lower part of the E summit ridge).

From here:

• Ascent to the summit cairn — 20 m.
• Return back.

From the 3rd summit — 1 hour.

Descent to the E via Malyj Ural according to the previous description.

Possible bivouac sites:

• on the cols of the ridge.

Hazardous areas:

• on the snow-ice slope of Ural pass — rockfall hazard on the left;
• on the descent from the E ridge — wet snow, avalanche hazard;
• on the "cushion" under the E ridge — covered crevasses.

Special equipment:

• rock pitons — 15 pcs;
• ice screws — 3–5 pcs;
• ladders — 1–2 pcs;
• slings — 3–4 pcs;
• crampons for all participants.