Tjutyrgu Peak S.

Day 1.

From the Bezengi alpine camp, the trail goes along the right (orographically) coastal moraine of Bezengi Glacier to Misses-kosh. From Misses-kosh, the entire path to the Tjutyrgu cirque is clearly visible. A wide couloir with two rock steps resembling sheep's foreheads is visible. Two streams flow through the couloir, merging into one at the lower step. After crossing Bezengi Glacier, one needs to:

• ascend to its left-bank moraine to the right of the gully formed by the stream;
• cross the stream under the sheep's foreheads and skirt them on the grassy slopes on the left;
• before reaching the second step, cross the stream again via a snow bridge and ascend between the streams — first on grassy slopes, then on moraine.

In its upper part, the couloir turns left, widens, and flattens, turning into a cirque. The cirque is bounded by the peaks, from right to left:

• Tjutyrgu;
• MVTU;
• Shaurtu;
• Pamyatnaya.

Here, an overnight stay is organized. 4–5 hours from the Bezengi alpine camp.

Day 2.

One should depart from the overnight stay as early as possible, as the path to the ridge goes through a rockfall-prone couloir. The couloir is snowy and ends in an avalanche cone in its lower part. The ascent should start on the left side of the couloir, under the cover of rock gates located at one-third of the couloir's height. The gates should be passed quickly, gradually moving to the middle of the couloir under the cover of a rock island located approximately at two-thirds of the couloir's height. Above the rock island, the couloir branches out. The path to the ridge continues along the edge limiting the right branch of the couloir on the right (in the direction of travel). The exit to the edge is made via moderately difficult rocks, but they are very brittle. Alternate belay is mandatory. Where the edge becomes steep, there's a convenient exit into the couloir, which needs to be crossed to the left. The couloir is icy, and alternate belay is mandatory. The main ridge can be reached via moderately difficult rocks (1.5 rope lengths) with mandatory alternate belay. The path along the ridge is not difficult, but caution is required due to potential cornices.

The descent follows the ascent route. The journey from the overnight stay in the cirque to the summit and back takes 5–7 hours. It's possible to descend back to the camp.

The route is not recommended for large groups, such as a badge-hunters team, as the rocks are brittle and there's a risk of mutual injury. Each rope team should have at least a pair of crampons.