21. Ulluuaz via West Ridge — Cat. 4A (A. Baldin, N. Alkhutov, T. Baldina, and Yu. Smirnov — August 10, 1958).

The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the Southern ridge of the Utug pinnacle is described in — 18. From the bivouac on the ridge, descend to the snow plateau of the glacier, above the third stage of the icefall. From here, move left and upwards, parallel to the Southern ridge, towards a wide (25–30 m) snow couloir of the West ridge of Ulluuaz peak, to the right of the Utug pinnacle.

Up the snow couloir (in teams!), bypassing the rocks in the couloir on the right, 250–300 m upwards, and then across the talus — exit from the couloir onto the lower saddle of the West ridge of Ulluuaz peak.

From the saddle:

• to the right across talus, snow (cautiously — cornices!) and easy rocks — ascent to the first ridge rise;
• further up the easy ridge rocks, then up the ice-snow rise — ascent to below the “Pila” wall (a series of rocky pinnacles).

Under the wall:

• initially 90–100 m up and to the right along ledges and slabs, 60–70 m short of the right edge of the wall;
• then 35–40 m left and upwards along a snow ledge;
• further directly up the wall, then along ledges — exit onto “Pila” (protection via protrusions, pitons!).

It is possible to bypass part of “Pila” on the left:

• 80–90-meter traverse along a snow terrace to an ice-snow couloir;
• up the couloir (rockfall!) 50–60 m onto ledges;
• along the ledges 45–50 m up and left onto “Pila” (in its middle part).

All “Pila” pinnacles are traversed directly along the ridge. From the last pinnacle — a 20-meter rappel to the upper saddle of the West ridge.

From the saddle:

• 80–90 m up a snow slope — below the wall of a small yellow pinnacle;
• a 20-meter traverse of its left side on ice;
• then up the ruined rocks — ascent to its summit.

Further:

• across a small snow plateau;
• 35–40-meter ledge right and upwards above the couloirs (protection!) — to the wall below the bridge between the large pinnacle and the tower.

Under the wall:

• along a snowy ledge 35–40 m right and upwards;
• then directly up 40–50 m along a couloir;
• further 20–25 m up a crevice (rockfall!).

10–12 m from the bridge:

• 35–40 m along a ledge left onto a “balcony”;
• further up easy rocks — ascent onto the pinnacle and along it — to the left “Zub”.

From under “Zub” — a 40-meter rappel into the gap between the large pinnacle and the summit. From the gap, up the snow ridge, easy rocks, and talus — ascent to the summit of Ulluuaz.

From the initial bivouac — 12–14 hours. Descent is described in descriptions 18 or 19.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 4–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — Southern ridge of the Utug pinnacle.
3. Departure time — 3–4 am.
4. Equipment: main rope — 2 × 40 m; auxiliary cordelette — 4 m; rock pitons — 8–10; ice screws — 2–3; rock hammer — 2; carabiners — 10–12; crampons — 4 pairs; tent — 1.
5. Bivouac locations — on the lower ridge saddle, on the ridge behind the first rise, on the ridge behind “Pila”, on the upper ridge saddle, on the glacier and its moraines.
6. Exit to the maroon with a tent or Zdar camp.