REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Chanchaqi of 6B category complexity by the group from the Taganrog and Rostov DSO "TRUD" led by Ruzhevsky V.V. Taganrog, 1970

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the route

The summit of Chanchaqi is located in the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus between the Tsey-Tbilisi pass and the summit of Mamison-Khokh. The height of the summit is 4420 meters above sea level. Among the classified routes to the summit of Chanchaqi, the simplest path is from the Tsey-Tbilisi pass, category 4B complexity. The most interesting from an alpinist's point of view is the north face. Here, there are routes of 5B and 6B category complexity. The 6B category complexity route was first ascended in 1968 by a group led by Popov, which received silver medals at the 1968 USSR championship for this ascent. In the 1970 season, this route was ascended by a group from the "Alibek" alpine camp, also participating in the USSR championship, and by a group from the Rostov Regional Council of DSO "TRUD".

Ascent conditions

In the second half of August, the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus is characterized by unstable weather. Typically, the first half of the day is sunny, which then changes abruptly, and by the second half of the day, precipitation often occurs. A peculiarity of Chanchaqi's microclimate is the constant wind, likely caused by the movement of warm air masses from the low-lying areas of Georgia to the higher and colder areas of North Ossetia. All the above is reflected in the relief of this mountain. Sharp temperature changes, wind erosion, and frequent precipitation result in formed ice, steep ice slopes, and islands on the wall, destroyed rocks, and its main hazard - a multitude of "live" stones.

Report

on the first ascent route on the summit Chančahi 4461 m via the center of the North wall (proposed 6A category) by the team of Sumy regional FaiS from February 3 to 11, 2014. Team captain: Roško V. I. Team coach: Mitühin F. P.

Sumy — 2014

Addresses:

Coach Mitühin Fedor Petrovich 40004, Sumy, Metallurgov str., 14/67 ph. home +38 (050) 634-34-34 ph. work 8 (0542) 61-99-64 Leader Roško Vladimir Ivanovich

Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Rocky Ridge.
3. Peak, route: Tbaukhoh (3007 m), via the left part of the Southwest wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B–4A, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 600 m — including 400 m of actual wall climbing — total route length: 900 m — length of wall climbing: 450 m, including: — 35 m of 5th category complexity

Alpinist Sports Club "KASKAD"

Report

On the ascent to Tepli Glavnaya peak 4431 m from the Southwest by the couloir of the Western ridge, presumably 3B cat. diff. Variant of the route by A. ZyuziN. Tepli Glavnaya by the North-West ridge, 3B cat. diff., 1938, number in the classifier 2.8.85. Kirkitadze D.A. Dyakonov B.V.

Central Caucasus, October 2013

Climbing participants

1. Leader: Kirkitadze David Amiranovich, II sports category, Kambiileevskoe village. Address: Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, Kambiileevskoe village, Yuri Kuchiev St., 62. Phone: +7 961 822-28-22.
2. Participant: Dyakonov Boris Valerievich, II sports category, Beslan.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION to the summit of Chach-khokh, category 2B complexity (height 4107 m) via the eastern ridge, approved on 17/2-67. The summit is located in the watershed ridge (between the basins of the Genal-don and Chach-khi rivers), connecting the Kazbek plateau to the south with the peak Iriston and further to the north with S. and Y. Kaidzhany. The summit has been visited repeatedly by mountaineering groups. All ascents were made from the Chach valley. The route is classified.

Day 1

The group travels by car along the VGD to the village of Gvileti, from where it is no more than 1 hour's walk along a dirt road to the confluence of the Kebati and Chach-khi rivers. After crossing the Kebati River and then the Chach-khi River at their confluence, the group heads along a trail to the right (Chach) valley. The trail winds up the slope and leads to the first "gates" of the Chach valley (a height difference of about 300-400 m). Next, it is necessary to go up to the right. Overcoming the "ram's foreheads of the gates" along one of the shelves that divides them, you should climb up the grassy slope to a group of trees, from which a well-trodden trail begins again. Follow the trail into a wide couloir, cross a stream, after which the trail turns sharply to the right under the rocks. Following along them, it will lead to a shoulder forming the first "gates" of the valley. It takes about 1.5 hours to walk from the confluence of the rivers to the pass point of the first "gates". The "ram's foreheads" must be passed with caution and gymnastic belay.

REGIONAL PUBLIC ORGANIZATION "FEDERATION OF ALPINISM OF MOSCOW REGION"

Russian Championship in Alpinism

2024 year

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

on the ascent made by the team of GK UAL Moscow Region – Perm Krai to the summit of Tsey-Loam (Kyazi), 3171 m via the left part of the SE wall (K. Dorro's route), 6A category of complexity, from 04.06.2024 to 04.06.2024 Cherepovets 2024 ASCENT DOCUMENT | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Chikin Artem Borisovich (CMS) |

204. Kayarta Glavnaya via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the "Adylsu" alp camp to the Shternberg Pass through the Tyutyusu gorge is described in routes 184 and 203. From the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Kayarta Glavnaya peak. From here, ascend simple and solid ridge rocks. Bypass the first 30-meter-high gendarme on the right (belay!). Beyond it:

• ascend the severely damaged simple rocky ridge,
• then traverse along the right snowy slope to reach the rocky edge of the South shoulder,
• ascend 50–60 m up the moderately difficult rocks of the edge. Then:

165. Lekzyr Severnaya via the Eastern slope of the Southern ridge (combined route, category 2B, fig. 24, 26). At Tot pass (item 160. turn right and reach the snowy eastern slope of Lekzyr Severnaya peak. From here, 300–400 m up-left along a gentle snowy slope (avalanches, rocks), in the upper part along the rocks or to the right of them — to reach the shoulder of the snowy counterfort. Up along the counterfort, then cross left a wide snowy couloir (avalanches, rocks) of the saddle between Severnaya and Glavnaya peaks and reach a vaguely expressed ridge. From here, 80–100 m up along steep easy destroyed and snowy rocks of

96. Tyutyu Eastern peak via the North-Eastern wall (combined route by Ya. Paramuda, category 5A, fig. 5, 10). The path from Tyrnauz (group of 4-5 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyu glacier is described in route 92. From the initial bivouac, cross the glacier and approach the lowest rocks of the North-Eastern wall of Tyutyu Eastern peak. Traverse a steep snowy slope to the right to bypass the base of the counterfort, and without entering a wide ice-snow couloir (avalanche and rockfall hazard), ascend to the rocks of the North-Eastern wall. Ascend via severely damaged, easy to moderately difficult rocks of the North-Eastern wall with three 35-40-meter steep sections up to a platform below a gendarme. Traverse the gendarme for 40 meters along steep, smooth slabs on the left side. Continue 80 meters up via damaged, moderately difficult, and occasionally challenging rocks, followed by a 40-meter ice-snow slope to reach a horizontal snowy ridge. Set up a bivouac on the ridge. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 8-10 hours. Ascend 70-80 meters up a sharp ice-snow ridge (cornice) to below the rocky ascent of the North-Eastern wall. Initially, climb difficult, smooth, steep rocks of a 35-40-meter wall (the key section of the route), then ascend 40 meters up-left towards the Peri gendarmes. From the Peri gendarmes, climb 300-350 meters straight up via icy, steep rocks of above-average and average difficulty to a platform at the base of the North-Eastern ridge. From the platform, ascend via easy to moderately difficult, snowy (cornices) 400-450-meter rocky ridge to the summit of Tyutyu Eastern peak. The journey from the bivouac on the snowy ridge takes 8-10 hours.

95. Tytu East via the North Face

(combined route by L. Popov, category 5B, fig. 5, 10). The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4-5 people) through the Tютюsu gorge to the initial bivouac and at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Tютю glacier is described in route 92. From the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine, cross the Tютю glacier and approach the rocky base of the North Face of Tютю East peak. From the glacier, begin the ascent up the wall along difficult and moderately difficult rocks using an upward-sloping internal corner to the left until reaching scree. From the corner, traverse right along a wide scree shelf through a snow patch along a belt of moderately difficult destroyed rocks to a steep icy rocky couloir (avalanche, rockfall hazard). Along difficult rocks of the vertical wall, 40 m straight up to the left of the icy couloir,