REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Chanchaqi of 6B category complexity by the group from the Taganrog and Rostov DSO "TRUD" led by Ruzhevsky V.V.

Taganrog, 1970

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the route

The summit of Chanchaqi is located in the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus between the Tsey-Tbilisi pass and the summit of Mamison-Khokh. The height of the summit is 4420 meters above sea level.

Among the classified routes to the summit of Chanchaqi, the simplest path is from the Tsey-Tbilisi pass, category 4B complexity. The most interesting from an alpinist's point of view is the north face. Here, there are routes of 5B and 6B category complexity.

The 6B category complexity route was first ascended in 1968 by a group led by Popov, which received silver medals at the 1968 USSR championship for this ascent. In the 1970 season, this route was ascended by a group from the "Alibek" alpine camp, also participating in the USSR championship, and by a group from the Rostov Regional Council of DSO "TRUD".

Ascent conditions

In the second half of August, the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus is characterized by unstable weather. Typically, the first half of the day is sunny, which then changes abruptly, and by the second half of the day, precipitation often occurs. A peculiarity of Chanchaqi's microclimate is the constant wind, likely caused by the movement of warm air masses from the low-lying areas of Georgia to the higher and colder areas of North Ossetia. All the above is reflected in the relief of this mountain. Sharp temperature changes, wind erosion, and frequent precipitation result in formed ice, steep ice slopes, and islands on the wall, destroyed rocks, and its main hazard - a multitude of "live" stones.

The presence of a large number of loose stones determines the optimal weather conditions for ascending to the summit of Chanchaqi via the north face, namely: minimal sun, colder temperatures, and no precipitation.

Such ideal weather, from a safety standpoint, was forecasted for the period from August 21 to August 25, 1970, which was decisive in setting the departure date for the group from the Rostov Regional Council of DSO "TRUD".

Composition of the assault group

The group consisted of 6 instructors from the "Ullu-Tau" alpine camp, who in the 1970 season participated in ascents as part of the Rostov Regional Council of DSO "TRUD" gatherings (except for K. Zaitsev). Information about the participants is provided in the following table.

Technical characteristics of the route

The north face of Chanchaqi (6B category complexity route) is a combined route that includes rock walls, snow and ice slopes, ridge sections, and rocks covered with formed ice. Four bastions of the wall naturally divide the route into four parts. However, based on the relief features, it can be subdivided into the following sections:

1. From the bergschrund to the lower part of the rocks of the first bastion. A firn slope with a steepness of about 40° and a length of 30 meters.
2. 40 meters traverse to the right across rocks of medium complexity (4 hooks) and then 20 meters along the boundary of ice and rocks, crossing a couloir with formed ice, to the right part of the base of the first bastion. The steepness of the ice is up to 60°, the steepness of the rocks at the boundary is from 70° to 90°. 4 hooks were hammered.
3. 25 meters upwards from the base of the first bastion across very complex rocks. The rocks are monolithic, with variable steepness from 80° to 90°. The method of movement is free climbing, in some places extreme. 6 hooks were hammered.
4. 45 meters upwards across rocks of medium complexity to the end of the rocks of the first bastion. The rocks are mostly monolithic, but there are loose stones on ledges and shelves. 6 hooks were hammered.
5. 30 meters to the left upwards across a steep (75°) ice slope, dusted with snow, to the base of the second bastion. Movement using crampons (on the front teeth). Hook belay to the available rock outcrops on the slope. (4 hooks)
6. 90 meters to the left across a steep (75°) ice ledge, dusted with snow, using the rocks of the base of the second bastion for belay. (16 hooks). Movement on front teeth and with the use of step cutting. In the first part of this section, the ledge is intersected by an ice couloir. Here, over 8 meters, the slope steepness reaches 85°. Passage with the use of screw hooks (4 hooks).
7. From the overhang that ends the 6th section, to the right upwards across strongly destroyed rocks of the second bastion for 65 meters. The steepness of the section is 75–80°. Belay using box hooks (12 pieces) at the end of the section, 3 meters of very complex climbing, and then another 30 meters straight up across complex rocks of slab structure with a steepness of 65–70° to the top of the second bastion (5 hooks).
8. A snow ridge 30 meters long with variable steepness from 45° to 60°, leading to the base of the third bastion.
9. 40 meters of strongly destroyed, icy rocks of slab structure. Steepness 65–70°. Movement to the left, slightly above the boundary of snow and rocks, along the base of the third bastion, to an ice couloir, followed by its crossing. (6 hooks).
10. 10 meters to the left upwards across sheer icy rocks of the left part of the ice couloir to a ledge under the second wall. Climbing is extreme but without the use of artificial support points.
11. 5 meters along the ledge to the right and then 10 meters - the second wall. Steepness 90°, rocks are fragile, climbing is extreme.
12. 60 meters of complex rocks (60–70°) and then a snow slope of 20 meters at 50°, leading to a rock ledge (11 hooks).
13. 20 meters to the right along a vaguely defined rock ledge. Steepness 80°, rock structure is slab-like, climbing is of medium complexity (3 hooks).
14. 14. A vaguely expressed internal corner on a sheer wall, leading straight up (12 meters), then 2 meters to the left and a second internal corner of 5 meters. The steepness of the section is from 85° to 90°. The rocks are very destroyed, climbing is extreme, with 3 artificial support points applied. 7 hooks were hammered.
15. After the second internal corner, 15 meters of rocks of medium complexity, with a steepness of 50°, 2 hooks were hammered.
16. A snow ridge of 20 meters. Along its left part upwards to the base of the fourth bastion. The slope steepness is 50°.
17. 30 meters of wall (85°) with a small number of holds. Overall, the character of the rocks is monolithic, but there are flakes that make the passage of the wall dangerous. Climbing is extreme with the use of 5 artificial support points (ladders). At the end of the wall, a traverse of 4 meters and an exit to the edge of the 4th bastion. Climbing is extreme. A total of 10 hooks were hammered.
18. The edge of the 4th bastion. 180 meters of icy, destroyed rocks. Average steepness is 65–70°. Climbing is very difficult but without the use of artificial support points.
19. Two walls on the edge of the 4th bastion with a total length of 20 meters. Rocks are strongly destroyed, steepness is 90°, 6 hooks were hammered.
20. 80 meters of strongly destroyed rocks of medium complexity, alternating with small snowfields and ice, lead to the ridge of Chanchaqi. At the end of the first 20 meters, it is possible to cut out 2 inconvenient platforms for tents. 12 hooks were hammered.
21. 300–400 meters along the ridge, leading to the summit. Complexity degree is 4–6.

Order of passage of the route

According to the plan for passing the route, on August 21, the group left the "Torpedo" alpine camp and carried out the transportation of equipment and food supplies to the hut.

On August 22, at 5:00, the group left the hut and, after passing along the right side of the northern cirque of the Tsey glacier, by 8:00 began organizing a base camp 300 meters from the north face of Chanchaqi.

At 9:30, the pair Nepomnyashchy - Meretsky went out to process the route and, working without breaks, by 17:00 passed the first bastion and 2/3 of the snow ledge under the base of the second bastion (sections R1–R6), that is, about 270 meters of the route by its length. At 17:00, the pair began descending to the base camp and by 19:30 was already down.

On August 23, at 6:00, the pair Slesov - Lipen went out on the route, tasked with further processing the route until the rest of the group caught up, who were dismantling the base camp to the observer's camp.

At 10:00, the remaining foursome went out on the route. At 12:15, the Ruzhevsky - Zaitsev pair passed the processed section, relieving the first pair, and passed the second bastion.

While Ruzhevsky processed the next section (R9), the Slesov - Lipen pair also passed the second bastion and began organizing a bivouac. The Nepomnyashchy - Meretsky pair was tasked with "burning bridges," i.e., removing ropes and hammering out hooks.

It is worth noting that although the group was well-versed in the method of pulling rucksacks with their feet, rucksacks were not pulled throughout the route because a pulled rucksack would inevitably cause falling stones. Therefore, for safety reasons, each participant lifted their rucksack on their shoulders, despite the fact that moving on belay with a rucksack is significantly more complicated, although not impossible.

The rucksack of the leading climber was lifted by E. Lipen, who thus passed through three bastions twice, demonstrating his endurance and strength.

At 17:00, the group gathered at the base of the third bastion, having thus passed sections R1–R8 and processed section R9.

The prepared bivouac looked like two steps on a rocky, snow-covered ridge. On the upper step, Slesov and Lipen slept, sitting and covered with a tent. On the lower step, the remaining foursome spent the night, hanging a "Pamirka" tent as a "Zdarka".

August 24. Rise at 4:00. At 5:15, the Nepomnyashchy - Meretsky pair moved forward and by 14:00 approached the summit of the third bastion, having thus passed sections R9–R16. Here, a bivouac could be organized - by cutting out places in the firn for two tents. However, considering that their comrades were working below, this was postponed, and Nepomnyashchy proceeded to process section № 17 - a 30-meter wall of the fourth bastion. It took 2 hours to pass it. During this time, all participants caught up and began preparing platforms. By 18:30, everyone was in tents.

August 25. Rise at 4:30. The Ruzhevsky - Zaitsev pair set out at 6:00 to process the 4th bastion. According to the description made by the group from "Alibek" alpine camp, this bastion is passed in two days, so the rest of the participants rested in tents. At 10:00, the first pair reported that it was possible to pass it in one day, in which case they would stay overnight on the summit of the 4th bastion. Lipen and Slesov gathered two rucksacks of the leading climbers with one tent, a primus stove, food, and warm clothing and lifted these rucksacks up. Returning at 12:00, they reported that the 4th bastion would be passed today and everyone needed to move up. Half an hour later, the entire group, having dismantled the bivouac, began to catch up with the first pair. At 16:00, the first pair reached the summit of the 4th bastion (40 meters from the ridge) and began organizing a bivouac. At 18:00, the second pair joined them, and at 19:00, the last pair, Nepomnyashchy - Meretsky, arrived.

All 4 days (including the day of processing) during which the group passed the north face, the weather forecasted held. This meant two to three hours of sun in the morning and then cloudiness that did not interfere with communication with observers, without precipitation.

August 26. Rise at 6:00. Until 8:00, the group was busy preparing "excess" equipment for sending down to observers. The weather began to deteriorate sharply. At 8:00, a pack with some equipment not needed on the 4–6 category complexity route was sent down. It hit a steep ice slope once and, turning into a "puck," kicked up a fountain of snow dust already on the plateau. The last thing we saw was Makarenko's figure, digging the pack out of the snow. A dense veil of fog enveloped us, and twenty minutes later, we emerged onto the ridge and were hit by strong winds, for which a sweater, a modern down suit, and a storm jacket provided very questionable protection.

We left our rucksacks on the ridge and ascended to the summit. 12:00. We left a note and began our descent. It was not possible to capture the panorama - a blizzard began. The intensity of the snowfall increased at a catastrophic rate. We dug our rucksacks out of the snow. At 14:00, partners in the rope team could no longer see each other. Everyone had the impression that the ascent had just begun. The group was 80 meters below the point of exit from the wall onto the ridge. We descended via the 4B category complexity route. We found old loops and, using them as landmarks, descended another 1/4 of 120 meters and reached a small snow shoulder. 16:00. Visibility was 15 meters. The unanimous decision was to attempt to set up tents. Two hours later, we managed to do so, as building material was arriving directly from the sky in unlimited quantities.

August 27. Rise at 5:00. Descent became even more problematic as the rock structure was completely hidden under snow. Visibility remained the same, frost intensified, and the howling of the wind and snowfall did not cease for a minute. We dismantled the tents, having first cleared them of snow, expanded the platforms, and set up the tents again. There were still provisions and gasoline for two to three more days. We decided to start descending tomorrow, hoping that the wind and frost would clear the rock structure by morning. Lipen gave a series of lectures on medicine. The tents were covered with a thick layer of ice from the inside, and from the outside, they had to be dug out of the snow every 2–3 hours, even at night.

August 28. Our hopes were realized! Huge icicles had grown on the rocks, but now the cracks were visible. So, "the road is mastered by the one who walks"! We began our descent at 7:00. At 15:00, the first pair reached the plateau. Visibility was 30 meters. Judging by the howling of the wind, the Tsey-Tbilisi pass - a natural aerodynamic tube - was somewhere nearby. However, no one could indicate the direction - where to go. Another overnight stay, but this time on flat ground.

In the morning, we saw a fantastic picture: the pass, mountains, plateau - everything sparkled brightly in the sun. This snow will surely melt next year. At 10:00, we descended to the base camp, and by 17:00, we were back at the "Torpedo" alpine camp.

Thus, the passage of the route took the group 4 travel days (including the day of processing, excluding descent time).

In summary, we can say that the best weather conditions for ascending to the summit of Chanchaqi via the north face correspond to those described above. In such conditions, the route can be considered objectively safe. In warm, sunny weather, the route is undoubtedly dangerous due to the abundance of destroyed rocks and loose stones.

The optimal number of participants in the group is 4 people.

For passing the route, a set of large and box rock hooks is necessary, 6 ice hooks (screw hooks), and three ladders.

Overall assessment of the participants' actions during the ascent

5 out of 6 participants in the described ascent have extensive experience in joint ascents to summits of category complexity from 1 to 6B inclusive over the past three years. All participants are connected by years of work at the "Ullu-Tau" alpine camp as instructors. Moreover, they are linked by comradely and often friendly relations, corresponding to the principles of universal human morality. This results in the participants' relationships during the passage of the route, which can serve as an example for most groups. Each participant in the group can perform any function during the ascent: from the lead climber to the last in the rope team.

Appendix

a) Equipment used by the group during the ascent:

1. Set of rock hooks - 50 pieces.
2. Bolt hooks - 30 pieces.
3. Drill - 6 pieces.
4. Ladders - 12 pieces.
5. Screw hooks (ice hooks) - 6 pieces.
6. Main rope (4 × 80 + 1 × 40) - 360 meters.
7. Auxiliary rope (6 × 3 × 5) - 90 meters.
8. Carabiners - 100 pieces.
9. Rock hammer - 4 pieces.
10. Ice axe - 5 pieces.
11. Ice pick - 1 piece.
12. "Pamirka" tent - 2 pieces.
13. Kitchen (Febous and pot) - 2 sets.
14. Personal gear - 6 sets.

b) Food supplies: the group was provided with high-calorie food for 10 days at a rate of 550 grams per person per day.

Conclusion

On August 29, 1970, at the "Torpedo" alpine camp, a debriefing of the ascent took place in the presence of the authorized representative of the USSR Alpinism Federation, Makridin, where all the group's actions were deemed correct. The participants were credited with the ascent to the summit of Chanchaqi via the North face, 6B category complexity, and the leader - with the leadership.

The route sheet is attached.

Leader /Ruzhevsky V.V./