Report

on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, winter category 1B difficulty level, by the FATUM CAT team on February 14, 2024.

I. Climbing Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — Traverse.
2. Ascent area — Lesser Caucasus, Aragats massif.
3. Peak, ascent route — Aragats, traverse of Aragats South (3850 m) – Aragats West (3978 m) – Aragats Nameless (3800 m) – Aragats North (4095 m) peaks.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 35°.
6. Number of pitons hammered for belay — 6 rock pitons.

Route Description: Traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the Segment from Pik Parashyutistov to Pik Akhmad Donish

Group II of the "Burevestnik" Complex Expedition. Pamir, August 1968.

Description

of traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the segment including Pik Parashyutistov – Pamiro Firnovo Plateau – Pik Kommunizma – Pik 6701 m – Pik Izvestiya – Pik K. Tsetkin – Pik A. Donisha.

I. Brief Geographical Characteristics of the Area

The Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges are located in the Northwestern Pamir. Their junction, Pik Kommunizma, is the highest peak in the USSR. The ridges, the first stretching in a latitudinal direction and the second in a meridional direction, are characterized by powerful glaciation and high peaks in their central parts adjacent to Pik Kommunizma. Studying the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges, which play a significant role in shaping the climatic conditions of the Pamir and surrounding areas, as well as in the water balance of the Amu-Darya, is of great interest.

TRAVERSE OF PEAKS:

• «5100 m»
• «5200 m»
• «5340 m»
• «5689 m (Egorova V.P.)»
• «5900 m»
• «RAZDELNAYA»
• «LENINA 7134 m»
• «Lipkin ROCK» Cat. 5B, for the Spartacus Championship of the Central Council of the DSO in 1970.

traverse of peaks 5150 m and 5100 m from east to west. Peaks 5150 and 5100 m are located in the main ridge of the western part of the Zavlaisky ridge and close the Kок-Kyik gorge. The traverse is made from east to west. 1st day: approaches from the intermediate base camp of the Sverdlovsk expedition (3800 m), located in the upper reaches of the X Kок-Kyik gorge near the lake, under the beginning of the route. Overnight on the moraine, height 4200 m. 2nd day: exit at 6:00 am through a stream flowing from under the glacier, which descends from the slopes of peaks 5600 m (loss of height up to 100 m), then ascent to the glacier and firn slope into the gap between peaks 5600 and 5150 m. Route features:

• Traverse in good weather conditions takes 9 hours.
• In bad weather, there are places for a tent practically along the entire route.
• The glacier is crossed in a rope team, as there are closed crevices.
• The firn slope has a steepness of 35 to 50°.
• From the foot to the upper part of the pass requires about 3 hours.

Report

On the high-altitude traverse of Peak Oktyabrsky – Peak Lenin, with the ascent to Peak Oktyabrsky via the western edge, accomplished by the combined team of CSKA. Dedicated to the 30th anniversary of the ascent by the Red Army team to Peak Lenin in 1934. The Trans-Alai Range, discovered in 1871 by the renowned explorer of Central Asia, A.P. Fedchenko, is one of the highest mountain ranges in the Pamir region. The highest part of the range is located in its center and forms a chain of peaks: Peak Lenin – 7134 m, Peak 6852 m, Peak Dzerzhinsky, Peak Kyzyl-Agyn, Peak Edinstva, and others. Peak Lenin is the third highest peak in the Soviet Union, the most popular "seven-thousander," and a high-altitude mountaineering stadium of the country. To the east of Peak Lenin, the Trans-Alai Range turns south and, in the area of Peak Edinstva, divides into two. The main range continues eastward, and a powerful, long Zulumart range with its highest point, Peak Oktyabrsky (6780 m), branches off to the south. The chain of peaks from Peak Oktyabrsky to Krylenko Pass was named "Mountains of Barricades" by N.V. Krylenko in 1928, which now includes: Oktyabrsky Peaks, Peak Edinstva, Peak 6350 m, and Peak 6104 m. Peak Oktyabrsky is a massif with three peaks: the South Peak, with an elevation of about 6750 m (this is the peak visible from the Kara-Jilgа valley), the Main Peak with an elevation of 6780 m, and the North Peak with an elevation of about 2270 m. The elevation differences between the peaks reach 100–120 meters. From Krylenko Pass to the south descends the powerful B. Sauk-Dara glacier, which is framed by steep slopes and walls of the surrounding peaks.

1. Class of traverses
2. South-West Pamir, Ishkashimsky Ridge
3. Traverse of p. Kiik-Bal-Khana (5100 m) – p. Bezymanaya (5170 m) with ascent to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana via the western ridge, combined ridge route.
4. Proposed - category 2B difficulty
5. Height difference — from the start of the route to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana — 550 m, from p. Bezymanaya to the end of the descent — 800 m, length of traverse between the peaks — 1100 m, length of sections with category 4 difficulty — 200 m.
6. Pitons hammered: Rock 20 — Chocks 40 —
7. Number of travel hours — 13.
8. Without overnight stays
9. Ascent made by a pair:

28

Georgian Climbing Club

named after A. B. Japaridze

Class of Traverses

Traverse

Peak "Nablyudeniy" (5579 m) – peak "Fersmana" (5700 m) – peak "Bezimyannyy" (6010 m) – Oshanina massif (6390 m) – peak "30th Anniversary of the Soviet State" (6447 m) – peak "Moskva" (6785 m) – peak "Soyuz-Apollon" (6047 m) – peak "Dushanbe" (5456 m) with ascent to peak "Nablyudeniy" via the southeastern counterfort (first ascent) Team of the Georgian Climbing Club named after A. Japaridze Leader: D. Dangadze, Master of Sports Members:

• G. Abashidze, Master of Sports

Report

on the traverse of peaks Engel'sa — Marx — Shakdarinsky Ridge — Pamir (first ascent).

1. Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of Peaks Engel'sa and Marx

a) Geography of the Area. Both peaks are located in the Shakdarinsky Ridge, stretching in a latitudinal direction, and are its highest peaks.

• Height of peak Marx — 6726 m.
• Height of peak Engel'sa — 6510 m. The Shakdarinsky Ridge is a watershed between the Pyanj River basin (to the south) and the Shakdara River basin (to the north). Lateral ridges extending from the arrays of peaks Marx and Engel'sa divide the northern slopes into three valleys: Khatsak, Shaboy, and Nispar (from west to east). Thus, both peaks are accessible from the north only from the Shaboy valley. Here, both peaks drop with huge walls to the foot of the Marx Glacier. The peak arrays rest on granite foundations, resulting in exceptionally extensive sections of sheer walls and a blocky rock structure. Individual monolithic blocks in the array of peak Engel'sa reach 500 m. The slopes of the ridge are covered with powerful glaciation, and numerous ice falls are present, especially in the area between peaks Marx and Engel'sa. However, the relief of the Marx Glacier does not contain significant difficulties. The slopes of peaks Marx and Engel'sa from the north represent routes of the highest category of difficulty, but ascent by these paths is possible only after thorough reconnaissance.

From the col, descend three rock "steps" of a жандарм on the right, and the fourth one — on the left, to reach the snowy ridge, along which ascend to Dolomit Tsentral'nyy. From the Malyy peak — 3 hours. The further traverse follows route М86.

• Departure time from the bivouac — not later than 4 am;
• On the traverse section, it is practically possible to organize an overnight stay at any col;
• The route is completed within one daylight day.

М92. Dolomit Severnyy — Yuzhnyy via the western wall ascent

(route is rock, 4A cat. dif.) The ascent to Dolomit Severnyy is made