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traverse of peaks 5150 m and 5100 m from east to west. Peaks 5150 and 5100 m are located in the main ridge of the western part of the Zavlaisky ridge and close the Kок-Kyik gorge. The traverse is made from east to west.

1st day: approaches from the intermediate base camp of the Sverdlovsk expedition (3800 m), located in the upper reaches of the X Kок-Kyik gorge near the lake, under the beginning of the route. Overnight on the moraine, height 4200 m.

2nd day: exit at 6:00 am through a stream flowing from under the glacier, which descends from the slopes of peaks 5600 m (loss of height up to 100 m), then ascent to the glacier and firn slope into the gap between peaks 5600 and 5150 m.

Route features:

  • Traverse in good weather conditions takes 9 hours.
  • In bad weather, there are places for a tent practically along the entire route.
  • The glacier is crossed in a rope team, as there are closed crevices.
  • The firn slope has a steepness of 35 to 50°.
  • From the foot to the upper part of the pass requires about 3 hours.
  • When passing this section, in some places, there is variable movement and insurance through an ice axe.
  • The height of the pass is 4950 m.

After reaching the ridge, there is a gentle ascent in the southern direction along the ridge to the peak 5150 m:

  • The peak was found to be free of snow, consisting of layered rocky rocks of a scaly type.
  • It drops steeply to the south, in terraces.
  • The ridge at the peak has cornices, hanging in the eastern direction - when passing, caution and insurance are required.
  • Time taken from the pass to the peak is 1 hour.

The route goes along the ridge with separate ascents and descents to the peak 5100 m - Kок-Kyik and takes one hour (simultaneous movement in a rope team).

Sources

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