Russian Mountaineering Championship 2021

Altitude Class

Report on the first ascent to Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) via the South Face route "Impromptu," approximately 5B category of difficulty, by the team from the Federation of Alpinism and Sports Climbing of Moscow, August 20-27, 2021. Head Coach: Kuznetsova E. V. Team Leader: Nilov S. A. Moscow 2021

Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) South Face "Impromptu"

Ascent Passport

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-altitude Class

2023

ASCENT REPORT

on the ascent to the peak of Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the center of the Southwest wall 6B category of difficulty (approximately), first ascent by a combined team from Krasnoyarsk Krai and Novosibirsk Oblast. Period: 01.08.2023 – 07.08.2023

1. High-altitude and technical class
2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge, from the south (China).
3. Peak Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the south ridge (first ascent).
4. Cat. diff.: 5B–6A (approximately)
5. Height difference: ascent 4400–6873 m — 2473 m, descent 6873–4600 m — 2273 m. Total length — ascent — 4930 m (fixed ropes — 4130 m on ascent). Length of sections with 5–5+(6) cat. diff. — approximately 1340 m, 4 cat. diff. — approximately 1720 m, horizontal sections of the ridge — 1620 m. Average slope of the route — 40°, above the horizontal part of the ridge — 50–55°,

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Passport

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents
2. Inylchek Ridge
3. Peak Shokal'skogo via the northeast wall
4. Complexity category — 6
5. Height difference — 1172 m. Total route length — 1362 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 824 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 71°
6. Pitons hammered: | 135 | 4 | 109 | 53 | | :-- | :- | :-- | :-- | | 46 | 4 | 41 | 0 |

Report

Peaks SAVO (6088)—Vazha Pshavela (6918) Central Tien Shan

Expedition of CS and MGS SDSO "Burevestnik"

Glukhov V.V.—captain, MSMS
Bobrov V.I.—coach, CMS
Zasetsky V.G.—participant, CMS
Petruk V.P.—participant, CMS
Soustin B.P.—participant, MS

Belarusian Federation of Alpinism

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Peak Pobeda 7439, Zap. Pobeda, Main, via the north edge from Dikiy Pass, 5B, by D. Medzmariashvili 2019

Route Passport

1. Mountain region: Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan.
2. Name of the summit: Peak Pobeda (7439 m).
3. Category of difficulty: 5B high-altitude.
4. Nature of the route: snow-rock-ice.
5. Route:
   • Zvezdochka glacier, Dikiy Pass, Peak Pobeda West along the northern edge, Peak Pobeda Main, 7439 m, descent via the ascent route;

Passport

1. Altitude class.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge.
3. Pobeda (Main) via Dikiy Pass over Pobeda (3) by 3rd category.
4. 6A category of complexity.
5. Elevation difference: 3039 m, distance — 10090 m. The average steepness of the main part of the route (Western ridge from Dikiy Pass to 6700 m) – 44° (5230 m – 6700 m), the whole route – 19° (4400 m – 7439 m).
6. Previously hammered-in pitons: 15 rock, 8 ice, 1 snow (not removed). Hammered-in pitons: rock – 0, ice – 0, snow – 0.
7. Team's walking hours: 26 hours, 5 days.

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge
3. Peak Pobeda Gl. summit (7439 m) via West summit from Dikiy pass from Zvezdochka glacier
4. Category of complexity — 5B
5. Height difference — 3039 m Average steepness of the ridge part of the route — 40°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock pitons — 5*
   • bolt pitons — 8
   • chocks — 6

Arkhangelsk region, Severodvinsk Sports club "Sever"

Ascent Passport.

1. Ascent classification: high-altitude ascents to peaks above 6990 m,
2. Ascent area: Central Tien Shan, South Inylchek glacier.
3. Ascent route: Peak Pobeda Main, via Vazha Pshavela
4. Complexity category: 5B category.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 3039 m (by altimeter);
6. Pitons used: