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Report on the Ascent of the Primorye Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Team to the Summit of Slesova (4240 m), A. Klenov's Route via the Right Part of the NW Wall, Variation

Russian Championship, Technical Climbing Class, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, July — August 2013

Climbing Passport

1. Pamir-Alai, Karavshin gorge, 5.4.3
2. Slesova peak, 4240 m, via the right part of the NW wall
3. Proposed: 6A category, A. Klenov's route, variation
4. Route character: rock climbing
5. Height difference: 830 m Route length: 1220 m Section lengths:

• V category — 200 m

Climbing Report of the Primorye Federation of Alpinism and Mountaineering Team on the Ascent to the Summit of Slesova (4240 m), A. Klenov's Route via the Right Part of the NW Wall, Variation

Russian Championship, Technical Climbing Class, Pamir-Alay, Karavshin, July — August 2013

Climbing Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3
2. Slesova peak, 4240 m, via the right part of the NW wall
3. Proposed: 6A category of difficulty, A. Klenov's route, variation
4. Route character: rock climbing
5. Route height difference: 830 m Route length: 1220 m Section lengths:

• V category of difficulty — 200 m

Route followed by the team­ — Semiletkin's Route 1993­ — Moroz's Route c.­c. 1988 Klenov's Route 1993

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Passport

I. Rock climbing category. 2. Spurs of the Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge. 3. Peak 4240 m, center of the North face. 4. Proposed 6B category of complexity, first ascent. 5. Height difference 830 m, length 968 m length of 6B sections — 583 m, 5B — 267 m average slope of the route — 75°, average slope of the wall section — 81° 6. Driven pitons: rock placement elements bolt ice

Passport

I. Rock category 2. Spurs of the Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge 3. Peak 4240 via the right part of the N-3 wall 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, second ascent 5. Height difference 940 m, length 1020 m, length of sections with category IV difficulty — 385 m Length of sections with category V difficulty — 370 m Average steepness of the route — 70°, average steepness of the wall section — 80° 6. Pitons hammered:

Pamir-Alay

1. Type — rock.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river).
3. Slesova peak via the center of the North face (Pogorelov's route).
4. Category 6B.
5. Height difference — 940 m. Length — 1065 m. Length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty — 960 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 79°.
6. Number of pitons used: rock pitons, drilled holes for skyhooks | 69 | 1+45 * | 268 | 41 |

Passport

I. Rock climbing category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su river gorge 3. Peak 4240 (Slesova) via North wall (Pogorelov's route) 4. 6B complexity category, third ascent 5. Height difference 810 m, length — 986 m. Length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 874 m, including 6 cat. diff. sections — 789 m. Average slope of the route — 71°. Average slope of the wall section — 81°. 6. Pitons driven: rock 128/48, chockstones 276/138, bolted 2/2+36

I. Class of Rock Climbing Ascent

2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su river gorge.
3. Peak 4240 (Slesova) via the North-West face.
4. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 810 m, route length: 986 m. Section lengths:

• R5–R6 — 874 m
• R6 — 789 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 81° (3430–4210 m)

6. Number of pitons used: | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons |