Report on the Ascent of the Primorye Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Team to the Summit of Slesova (4240 m), A. Klenov's Route via the Right Part of the NW Wall, Variation

Russian Championship, Technical Climbing Class, Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, July — August 2013

Climbing Passport

Pamir-Alai, Karavshin gorge, 5.4.3
Slesova peak, 4240 m, via the right part of the NW wall
Proposed: 6A category, A. Klenov's route, variation
Route character: rock climbing
Height difference: 830 m

Route length: 1220 m Section lengths:

V category — 200 m
VI category — 770 m Average steepness:
main part — 80°
entire route — 72

Hooks left on the route: total — 0.

Used on the route:

stationary bolts — 0
removable bolts — 2
hooks — 53
chocks (camalots) — 152 Total ITO used — 21

Team's walking hours: 47 h, 5 days
Team leader: Krasnolutsky Alexander Vyacheslavovich, CMS Participants: Ishchenko Alexander Vitalievich, MS, Bobrov Igor Sergeevich, CMS
Coach: Ishchenko Alexander Vitalievich, MS
Processing start: July 27, 2013

Route start: 7:00, August 3, 2013 Summit reach: 18:00, August 4, 2013 Return to Base Camp: 14:00, August 5, 2013 Summit photo. Taken from the report of the "Odessa" team, 2007

Profile of the NW wall of Slesova peak. Shot from under the entrance pitch of peak 4810

Team's movement schedule by sections:

July 27, 2013, 11:00–19:00 (8 h) — processing, sections R0–R5
July 28, 2013 — participant's illness
July 29, 2013 — participant's illness
July 30, 2013, 8:00–17:00 (9 h) — processing, sections R6–R7, ITO 40 m
July 31, 2013, 8:00–13:00 (5 h) — processing, sections R8–R10, ITO 15 m
August 1, 2013 — rest
August 2, 2013 — rest
August 3, 2013, 7:00–20:00 (13 h) — sections R11–R16, ITO 30 m, overnight stay
August 4, 2013, 7:00–18:00 (11 h) — sections R17–R25, free climbing, overnight stay on the summit
August 5, 2013, 7:00–14:00 (7 h) — descent via "Perestroyka crack", 5B category

Ascent Schedule

Route Description by Sections

R0–R1. Up through a simple internal corner. R1–R2. Traverse right along the wall to a wide scree shelf. Station on "local" hooks. R2–R3. Continue moving right along the shelf, then up-left towards hanging fragments. Station at the base of an overhanging internal corner. R3–R4. Up through the internal corner. Station can be made where the overhang is overcome. R4–R5. Difficult climbing through a ledge and then vertically up. Station on "local" NEW bolts. R5–R6. Short traverse left, then up into a small internal corner. Through a vertical wall section to a small convenient shelf with "local" NEW bolts. R6–R7. ITO along the edge of an overhang. Free climbing is possible. "Local" NEW bolt after 20 m. Station before the "Bird" ledge, centered. R7–R8. Skyhook move left-up to bypass "Bird" under 6 mm cracks and 8 mm quickdraws. Station on three 8 mm quickdraws at the end of a small internal corner. R8–R9. Step right, step down, and possibly free climb right-up towards a gentle inclined internal corner. Station on "local" hooks. R9–R10. Up to the end of the corner, then right-up along the wall towards the right edge of a ledge. After bypassing it, climb up to large reliable holds. R10–R11. From the station, left towards a rock cone. Behind it — a platform for one tent. Up through a simple crack through a small ledge into a niche. Two "local" bolts. R11–R12. Through a rock wall right into the base of a large internal corner. Interesting difficult climbing ends on a narrow ledge with a station on personal anchors. R12–R13. Easy climbing under an overhang. R13–R14. Left, bypassing the overhang, into a corner. R14–R15. Right through a climbing crack into an uncomfortable niche for two. R15–R16. Impressive climbing up, first through a corner, then along the wall. At the end of the pitch, the wall eases, station. R16–R17. 15 m of easy climbing along an inclined wall onto a convenient four-person ledge. R17–R18. Left through a series of walls, bypassing a ledge. R18–R19. Simple slab with a crack leads to a destroyed chimney — an internal corner. In the upper part, move left. R19–R20. Short internal corner, then wall sections. General direction — up-left. Small ridges — counterforts — start to appear from the left. R20–R21. Climbing alongside the corner along the wall. R21–R22. Careful climbing to bypass an overhanging ledge of the internal corner. Station can be made on the next ridge. R22–R23. Up, then along a ledge left behind a bend. Station — on a sloping slab. R23–R24. Up. Convenient station at the base of a corner. R24–R25. Simple corner, move behind a bend. Difficulties end. Summit and overnight stay straight ahead, descent — left.

Section R2–R3