Climbing Report of the Primorye Federation of Alpinism and Mountaineering Team on the Ascent to the Summit of Slesova (4240 m), A. Klenov's Route via the Right Part of the NW Wall, Variation

Russian Championship, Technical Climbing Class, Pamir-Alay, Karavshin, July — August 2013

Climbing Passport

Pamir-Alay, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3
Slesova peak, 4240 m, via the right part of the NW wall
Proposed: 6A category of difficulty, A. Klenov's route, variation
Route character: rock climbing
Route height difference: 830 m

Route length: 1220 m Section lengths:

V category of difficulty — 200 m
VI category of difficulty — 770 m Average steepness:
main part — 80°
entire route — 72

Hooks left on the route: total — 0.

Used on the route:

stationary bolts — 0
removable bolts — 2
hooks — 53
chocks/camalots — 152 Total ITO (Individual Climbing Equipment) used — 21

Team's total climbing hours: 47 h, 5 days
Team Leader: Krasnolutsky Alexander Vyacheslavovich, CMS Team Members: Ishchenko Alexander Vitalievich, MS, Bobrov Igor Sergeevich, CMS
Coach: Ishchenko Alexander Vitalievich, MS
Processing start: July 27, 2013

Route start: 7:00, August 3, 2013 Summit reach: 18:00, August 4, 2013 Return to Base Camp: 14:00, August 5, 2013

General summit photo
Taken from the "Odessa" team's report, 2007

Profile of the NW wall of Slesova peak. Taken from under the Entry point of peak 4810

Team's movement schedule by sections:

July 27, 2013, 11:00 to 19:00 (8 h) — processing, sections R0–R5
July 28, 2013 — team member's illness
July 29, 2013 — team member's illness
July 30, 2013, 8:00 to 17:00 (9 h) — processing, sections R6–R7, ITO 40 m
July 31, 2013, 8:00 to 13:00 (5 h) — processing, sections R8–R10, ITO 15 m
August 1, 2013 — rest
August 2, 2013 — rest
August 3, 2013, 7:00 to 20:00 (13 h) — sections R11–R16 completed, ITO 30 m, overnight stay
August 4, 2013, 7:00 to 18:00 (11 h) — sections R17–R25 completed, free climbing, overnight stay on the summit
August 5, 2013, 7:00 to 14:00 (7 h) — descent via "Perestroyka krэк" route, 5B category of difficulty

Climbing Schedule

Route Description by Sections

R0–R1. Up through a simple internal corner. R1–R2. Traverse right along the wall to a wide talus shelf. Station on "local" hooks. R2–R3. Continue moving along the shelf to the right, then up-left, towards hanging detachments. Station at the base of an overhanging internal corner. R3–R4. Up through the internal corner. Station reasonably made at the point of overcoming the overhang. R4–R5. Complex climbing through a cornice and further vertically up along an unclear goal. Station on "local" NEW bolts. R5–R6. Small traverse left, then up into a small internal corner. Through it, across a vertical wall to a small convenient shelf with "local" NEW bolts. R6–R7. ITO along the edge of the overhang. Free climbing possible. "Local" NEW bolt after 20 m. Station not reaching the "Ptitsa" cornice, centered. R7–R8. Skyhook move left-up, bypassing "Ptitsa" under 6 mm cracks and 8 mm quickdraws. Station on three 8 mm quickdraws at the end of a small internal corner. R8–R9. Step right, step down, and possibly free climbing right-up towards a light inclined internal corner. Station on "local" hooks. R9–R10. Up to the end of the corner, then along the wall right-up, towards the right edge of the cornice. After bypassing it, climb up to large reliable holds. R10–R11. From the station, left towards a rocky cone. Behind it — a platform for one tent. Up through a simple crack through a small cornice into a niche. Two "local" bolts. R11–R12. Through a rocky wall to the right into the base of a large internal corner. Interesting complex climbing ends on a narrow ledge with a station on personal points. R12–R13. Easy climbing under the overhang. R13–R14. Left, bypassing the overhang, into a corner. R14–R15. Climb up a lazatielnaya crack into an uncomfortable niche for two. R15–R16. Impressive climbing up, first through a corner, then along the wall. At the end of the pitch, the wall slightly lies down, station. R16–R17. 15 m of easy climbing along an inclined wall onto a convenient ledge on four. R17–R18. Left, through a series of walls, bypassing a cornice. R18–R19. Simple slab with a crack abuts a destroyed chimney — an internal corner. In its upper part, transition left. R19–R20. Short internal corner, then walls. General direction — up-left. Small ridges — counterforts start to approach from the left. R20–R21. Climbing alongside the corner along the wall. R21–R22. Careful climbing, bypassing the overhanging ledge of the internal corner. Convenient to make a station on the next ridge of counterforts. R22–R23. Up, then along the ledge, left behind the bend. Station — on a sloping slab. R23–R24. Up. Convenient station at the base of the corner. R24–R25. Simple corner, move behind the bend. Difficulties ended. Summit straight ahead, descent — left.

Section R2–R3