Ascent Log

I. Winter Climbing Category. 2. Climbing Area: Central Caucasus, spur of the Main Caucasian Range. 3. Peak Chatyn 4368 m, route via the right part of the North face. 4. First ascent. Proposed difficulty category 5B. 5. Route characteristics up to the ridge: height difference — 710 m, length — 855 m, average steepness — 56°, length of 5 m/tr sections — 675 m. 6. Pitons used: ice screws — 78, rock pitons — 2, chock stones — 4, bolt pitons — 0. 7. Total climbing hours: ascent with processing — 18.5, descent to Base Camp — 10.5. 8. Overnight stay: half-lying, on the shoulder before the ridge, ice was chopped. 9. Leader: Viktor Petrovich Avtomonov, Master of Sports.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Tsey gorge, section number according to the classification table: 2.7.
2. Khitsan (3600 m), via the Western ridge from the South.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 450 m. Route length: 1200 m. Section lengths:

• V category — 0 m
• VI category — 0 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 20°, total route: 25°.

6. Pitons left on the route: total 0; including drill pitons — 0, ice screws driven — 1.

PASSPORT

I. Category of first ascents. 2.2.10., mountains of Dagestan, Shalib ridge. 3. Metiko, 3812 m, from the north and along the north-eastern ridge, combined. 4. Assumed 2A category of difficulty. 5. Height difference 500 m, average steepness 40°, length 1000 m; of which 1 category of difficulty – 300 m, 2 category of difficulty – 655 m, 3 category of difficulty – 45 m. 6. Pitons hammered for rock protection – 1, 3 snow anchors placed. 7. Group's moving hours – 4 hours. 8. Without overnight stays. 9. Leader: Konstantin Eduardovich Dorro, 1st sports category.

Ascent Log

1. Region of ascent — Kamchatka, Ganal Range.
2. Peak — V. Yuzhnaya 2050 m, Southern Ridge.
3. Class of ascent — combined.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 2B.
5. Height difference — 550 m.
6. Route length — 1425 m.
7. Number of days — 1 day.
8. Number of walking hours — 8 h.
9. Leader, participants, surname and initials, sports rank.

Ascent Passport

1. Class of ascents — high-altitude and technical.
2. Area of ascent — North-Western Pamir, Peter the First Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Kirova, 6371 m, along the Eastern ridge from Walter Glacier.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B cat. diff.
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference 6371–4200 = 2171 m, average steepness — 50°, length of sections: R2 — none, R3 — 800 m, R4 — 1000 m, R5 — 700 m, R6 — none.
6. Number of pitons driven: for belay: rock — 44

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

The ascent leader and author of the description is Zaretsky Ivan Approach: Both routes start from the Molodezhny pass. You can ascend to the pass from the Mramorny lake side. From the lake, a trail leads towards the pass, which ends at a talus slope. The ascent is via the scree, bypassing the "ram's foreheads". This path to the pass is:

• the shortest,
• not the easiest to ascend,
• not the safest to descend. From Mramorny lake, you can also reach Molodezhny pass via Kursanov pass. From the lake, a trail leads to Kursanov East pass. Then, from the pass, the trail follows the ridge towards Molodezhny peak. From Kursanov West pass, the trail, going along the slope, leads to Molodezhny pass. This path is longer, but it mostly follows an obvious trail.

16 to Uchyitel peak:

The route starts from Molodezhny pass. From the pass, the route follows a trail that, bypassing the peak on the right, leads to the ridge. The highest point of the ridge is the summit. Descent is via the ascent route.

1B to Molodezhny peak

Pik Pioner via the center of the South face, 4B, Smirnov, 1980

R0–R1 From a mossy and grassy ledge, ascend the wall via ledges to a small cornice, under which a hook is placed for the belay station. A white patch on the wall to the right of a black streak serves as an orientation point. R1–R2 Move left along the 80° wall with horizontal slots and local pitons to the base of an internal corner, up which you ascend (6A). To the right of the route, there is a small ledge with a hammered hook and a hole for a spit. You can set up a belay station there or climb further and establish it on a small ledge about 10 meters higher. R2–R3 A nerve-wracking rope pitch. The entire section is 25 meters, but:

• Not everywhere is there good protection,
• There is a loose block that you need to grasp to climb up. From the chip off to the left Up the little corner to a slab, above which local pitons and a drill hole are placed. R3–R4 The crux pitch. There's a scoop with a crack in its depth. The upper part involves exiting through an overhang. The pleasant aspect is that you can set up a reliable belay and calmly focus on climbing. The crux, in my estimation, is 6B. Then, a couple more belay stations above the exit, and a reclining internal corner begins, leading to a large ledge where "Urubko, Smirnov, Gryaznov, Babeshkin routes" converge.

• Climbing category: technical
• Climbing area: Trans-Ili Alatau ridge
• Peak, its height, and ascent route: peak "TRUD", 4650 m, via the right part of the Western wall, first ascent.
• Estimated route category: 5B
• Route characteristics: height difference — 1180 m, average steepness — 55°, total route length — 1560 m, section lengths:
  • 3rd difficulty category — 415 m
  • 4th difficulty category — 580 m
  • 5th difficulty category — 540 m
  • 6th difficulty category — 25 m
• Pitons used:

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.4. Central Caucasus, mountain region — Prielbrusye, Terskol gorge, SE spur of Elbrus
2. Names of peaks: Sarykolbashi-tersak (3776) — Sarykol (3700) Route: traverse from south to north
3. Category of complexity: 2B
4. Character of the route — rock.
5. Height difference of the route: 1376 m
6. Length of the route: 3320 m
7. Length of sections with the highest category of complexity: