Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — Fortambek glacier.
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via Peak Kirov (6371 m) with ascent to Peak Kirov via the north ridge.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: Height difference — 2495 m. Average steepness — about 15°. Length of difficult sections — 1020 m.
5. Number of pitons used: rock — 64
   ice — 47

Комитет по физической культуре и спорту при Новосибирском облисполкоме

4.8.12

Отчёт

о восхождении сборной команды Новосибирской области на пик Коммунизма через пик Кирова с подъёмом на пик Кирова по северному гребню, совершённого в зачёт чемпионата СССР 1973 года Класс высотных восхождений Новосибирск –1973–

1. Краткое географическое описание и спортивная характеристика объекта восхождения

Пик Коммунизма (7495 m) — высочайшая вершина Советского Союза, расположен на северо-западном Памире, на пересечении хребтов Академии Наук и Петра Первого. Он открыт топографом И. Г. Дорофеевым в 1928 г. [^1]. Первовосхождение на пик Коммунизма совершено в 1933 году выдающимся советским альпинистом Евгением Абалаковым. На склонах пика Коммунизма берут начало многочисленные ледники, относящиеся к трём автономным бассейнам, которые разделены хребтами Академии Наук и Петра Первого — это бассейны ледников Бивачный, Фортамбек и Беляева. Соответственно, можно выделить три района, из которых совершаются восхождения на пик Коммунизма:

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the Left Part of the North Face

Climbing Passport

1. Pamir. Akademiya Nauk Range. The highest point of the former USSR. Peak Kommunizma (Ismoili Somoni) 7495 m. Claimed category: 6A (winter). First ascent. In terms of complexity and conditions, a normal 6B. Route type: ice. Elevation gain: 2500 m. Route length: approximately 5500 m.
2. Section lengths: I — 1400 m, II — 2700 m, III — 230 m, IV — 800 m, V — 200 m, VI — 165 m.
3. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 75°.
4. Number of pitons left on the route: total — 30.
5. Total number of ice screws used on the route: 240.
6. Total number of artificial anchors (AAs) used: 50.
7. Team's total climbing hours after processing the route: 4 hours.
8. Team:

Ascent

to Peak Kommunizma from Walter Glacier via the spur with an exit to the ridge between Peaks Izvestiy and 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. Protocol No. 422 dated 09.11.1976. Classify the route: traverse of Peak 6700 m — Peak Kommunizma with ascent via the northwest spur and Voykov Ridge, ice and snow. Credit the group with the first ascent.

First Ascent

by the MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" group, led by N. Cherny. Peak Kommunizma is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, at the junction of the Peter I and Academy of Sciences ranges. Its northwest slopes descend onto the Pamir Firn Plateau. The plateau drops steeply to the north onto the Walter and Traube glaciers. The northern slopes of Peaks 50th Anniversary of VLKSM (6700 m) and Izvestiy descend onto the first glacier. Two routes to Peak Kommunizma have been established from Walter Glacier: the Borodkin route, which exits onto the plateau, and the Bezzubkin route, which exits onto Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. The MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" group made an ascent of Peak Kommunizma via a new route from Walter Glacier. The route follows a snow and ice spur that leads to the ridge between Peak Izvestiy and Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. From there, the group followed a previously established path via Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM and then along the northeast ridge of Peak Kommunizma to its summit. The descent followed the ascent route down to the saddle between Peak Kommunizma and Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM, then the group descended onto the firn plateau and along the "Burevestnik" ridge to Fortambek Glacier. The group departed from the base camp with the following members:

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak, 30th by height, climbing route — Peak Communism, 7495 m above sea level, via the counterfort from Walter Glacier, route by N. Chyorny.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3495 m, length of category difficulty sections: 5 — 2500 m, category difficulty 6 — 300 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Pitons hammered for safety: rock — 10, ice — 30, bolt — C.
7. Number of travel hours — 41.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 4 nights on snow in a tent.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualifications:
   1. Studenin B. A., Master of Sports of International Class, team leader.

24 4234

Traverse of Western Pamir

Passport

Class of traverses Western Pamir Traverse of peaks 6280–6600–6840–6701–7495 Proposed 6th category of difficulty, first ascent Length 14480 m, max. elevation difference — 2895 m Pitons hammered:

• rock — 42
• ice — 144

Route Description: Traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the Segment from Pik Parashyutistov to Pik Akhmad Donish

Group II of the "Burevestnik" Complex Expedition. Pamir, August 1968.

Description

of traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the segment including Pik Parashyutistov – Pamiro Firnovo Plateau – Pik Kommunizma – Pik 6701 m – Pik Izvestiya – Pik K. Tsetkin – Pik A. Donisha.

I. Brief Geographical Characteristics of the Area

The Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges are located in the Northwestern Pamir. Their junction, Pik Kommunizma, is the highest peak in the USSR. The ridges, the first stretching in a latitudinal direction and the second in a meridional direction, are characterized by powerful glaciation and high peaks in their central parts adjacent to Pik Kommunizma. Studying the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges, which play a significant role in shaping the climatic conditions of the Pamir and surrounding areas, as well as in the water balance of the Amu-Darya, is of great interest.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing class — high-altitude
2. Climbing area, ridge — Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk ridge
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — Peak Kommunizma 7495 m via the southern wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B
5. Route characteristics:
   1. height difference — 2800 m
   2. length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 1200 m
   3. average steepness of the lower part — 55° average steepness of the wall section — 85°

Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Ukrainian SSR ![img-0.jpeg]({"width":555,"height":552,"format": "Jpeg","uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/r9xyHAvOvdkcYFgEnUgGJTGQdFabvpu5/img-0.jpeg","id":64763611}) Report on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma via the south face ![img-1.jpeg]({"width":682,"height":670,"format": "Jpeg","uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/2u7knCK5FD8RbdRRywsEXZxaICkmFBhA/img-1.jpeg","id":64763612}) Kiev, 1973

I. Sports Characteristic of the Route

The object of the ascent, Peak Kommunizma, is located at the junction of the Petra Pervogo and Akademii Nauk ranges in the Central Pamir. After E. M. Abalakov's first ascent of Peak Kommunizma in 1933, a large number of new routes were laid to its summit. The area around Peak Kommunizma is frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is fairly well-known both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. (See "Pobezhdennye vershiny" 1968–1969.) Following the brilliant reconnaissance by V. Bozhuukov and A. Belopukhov in 1965, and the successful ascents by the groups led by E. Myslovsky and V. Onishchenko, the central part of the south face of Peak Kommunizma became one of the main challenging routes for Soviet mountaineers. Our team's acquaintance with Peak Kommunizma began in 1967 when we made the first ascent of its northeast ridge, earning the title of USSR champions. In 1972, we attempted to ascend via the center of the south face. Due to harsh weather conditions and time constraints, we were forced to descend, having reached an altitude of 6300–6400 m.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing class — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — North-Western Pamir.
3. Climbing route to the summit of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m above sea level) via the south-western wall.
4. Climbing characteristics: height difference — 2800 m; average steepness — 70°; length of complex section (90°) — 1540 m. Number of pitons: rock — 501; ice — 15; bolted — 32.
5. Number of travel hours — 121. Number of overnight stays — 23, half of them sitting.
6. Team of the Rostov Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports.
7. Team members: