Traverse Tyutyu Western–Eastern, combined, 3A

Route description:

From the "Dzhaulyak" alpine camp, follow the right (orthographically) bank of the Kullumkol River along the trail to a stream, then turn right into the gorge. Cross the stream and move up the trail, which runs along the moraine ridge towards the rock screes. Below the screes, turn right and cross the large talus to the trail leading to the edge of the terminal moraine. Tyutyu overnight campsite. 2.5 hours from the camp. From the campsite, move along the left (in the direction of travel) edge of the glacier along the moraine ridges to reach the plateau below v. Tyutyu 1st Western. The plateau has crevasses. Turn left on the plateau and, bypassing the ice ascent to the left, reach the glacier terrace, from which:

• a straightforward ascent to the Kullumkol Pass. If the snow is in good condition, from this terrace you can:
• turn right onto the steep snow-ice slope and immediately ascend to the ridge below the second "gendarm". From the pass:

Tyutyu East - West, combined, 3A

Route Description

The path from the "Dzhailyk" hostel goes along the right side of the Kullukol gorge to the foot of a steep grassy slope, on whose shoulder the "Paradise Campsite" is located. From the "Paradise Campsite", the ascent begins along the moraine until reaching the Western Tyutyu glacier. Crossing the glacier along its central part, we reach the foot of a snowy shoulder located on the eastern slopes of the Tyutyu-bashi massif. We ascend the steep snowy slope to the shoulder (avalanches!!), then along a heavily damaged rocky ridge of medium difficulty, we reach the 5th peak of the Tyutyu-bashi massif. The descent from the 5th peak to the saddle and the ascent to the Main peak go along a sharp snowy ridge (cornices!!). From the Main peak, we descend along monolithic block-type rocks (1.5–2 ropes). Here, there may be flow ice covered with snow. The ascent to the 3rd peak goes along a rocky ridge of medium complexity. It is advisable to move to the left. The descent to the saddle between the 3rd and 2nd peaks goes along snow-covered slabs. On the saddle, there is a gendarme, which is bypassed on the left. Having passed the gendarme, we approach a 6–8 m rock wall, which is climbed using free climbing with piton belay, after which we reach the 2nd peak. Along a wide snowy ridge, we move towards the 1st peak along a snowy slope, bypassing the gendarme on the left, and descend to the Kullumkolsky pass. Having descended from the pass, we reach the Western Tyutyu glacier and, crossing it, we return to the "Paradise Campsite". Time from "Ullu-tau" hostel to "Paradise Campsite" is 1.5–2 hours. From the "Paradise Campsite", the entire traverse takes 14–15 hours.

Tyutyu Central via the West Ridge, combined, 26 hours

Route description:

The path from the Ullutau alpbase to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine near the West Tyutyu glacier follows the trail in the Kulukol gorge, on its left side, with a steep ascent to the glacier tongue. It's also possible to ascend via the Rayskie nochyovki (Paradise Camps) and exit onto the moraine shoulder of the West ridge of Shogentsukova peak. From the campsite, exit onto the glacier and move along its left part (closed crevasses!) to approach the Kulukol pass col, located under the southern slope of the West ridge of Tyutyu Zapadnaya peak. From the pass:

• Turn right
• Traverse the col along a simple snowy scree
• Ascend the ice-snow slope to the West ridge of Tyutyu Zapadnaya peak On the West ridge:
• Bypass the Katya Korlyakova gendarme (with a triangulation tripod on its summit)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus.
3. Object of ascent — Tyu-Tyu 2nd Western (4420 m) via the North wall.
4. Height difference of the wall part of the route — 1400 m. Total route length — 1765 m. Length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 215 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 335 m.
5. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 65°.
6. Pitons driven:

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Central Caucasus, Tyutyu-Su gorge
3. V. Tyutyu, 2nd Zap. via N. side, 4420 m
4. 6A category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 1400 m, length 2100 m Length of sections with 6A–6B category of difficulty is 380 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 65° (3050–4150 m)
6. Number of pitons hammered: rock bolt pitons ice screws 20 96 26

Ascent Passport No. 121

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Tyutyu Su gorge.
3. Tyutyu 2nd Western peak via the northern wall (M. Khergiani route).
4. Category of difficulty: 6A.
5. Height difference — 1150 m, length 1800 m, of which 5th and 6th category of difficulty are 720 m.
6. Pitched: | Ice screws: | Rock pitons: | Nut placements: | Cams: | | :---------- | :----------- | :-------------- | :---- |

Report on the Second Ascent

Dulnev's Route, Tyutyu 2nd Western peak via the left part of the South face of the South ridge. Assumed 5B category of difficulty. Multidisciplinary Mountaineering Club "FREELINE", Pyatigorsk.

Passport

1. Class: technical.
2. Central Caucasus, Kullumkol gorge.
3. Tyutyu 2nd West via the left part of the South face of the South ridge, 4420 m.
4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, second ascent.
5. Height difference: 920 m, length — 1100 m.

V. Tyutyu 2nd Western route via the left part of the South face, South ridge, first ascent. Central Caucasus.

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Kullumkol gorge.
3. V. Tyutyu 2nd West via the left part of the South face, South ridge, 4420 m.
4. Assumed 5B cat. diff., first ascent.
5. Height difference: 920 m, length — 1100 m.
   • Length of sections with 6A–6B cat. diff. — 99 m.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent region: Central Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Tyutyu-bashi, 2nd Western, 4850, via the 10th wall of the 10th counterfort. 4. Proposed category: 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, length of sections with 5–6 category: 160 m, average steepness 60^{\circ}. 6. Number of pitons: rock pitons — 33, chocks — 9, loops with carabiner — 3, including for creating artificial anchors — 6; total 39. 7. Number of climbing hours: from "Jailyk" tourist camp to the route — 4–5, from the foot to the summit — 13. 8. Number of overnight stays: one, lying down. 9. Group composition:

Central Council of Physical Culture and Sports

Report

on the ascent to v. Tyutyu-bashi 2nd West by S wall of S buttress — first ascent, 5A cat. difficulty, approximately, made on August 2–3, 1979 on the Central Caucasus, in the Adyr-su gorge by a group of climbers from "Dzhailyk" alpine camp in the following composition:

• SERGEY ANATOLYEVICH RYZHIKOV — Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor
• ANDREY EVGENYEVICH PETROV — 1st sports category. On August 2–3, 1979, a group of climbers from "Dzhailyk" alpine camp consisting of: Sergey Anatolyevich RYZHIKOV, Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor, and Andrey Evgenyevich PETROV, 1st sports category, made a first ascent of the route to the summit of Tyutyu-bashi 2nd West by the South wall of the southern buttress, approximately 5A category of difficulty. The southern buttress is located somewhat east of the southern edge, along which a 3B category route is laid to the same summit, and is separated from the edge by snowy slopes and a wide couloir. The buttress is separated from the walls of the 3rd Western Tyutyu-bashi — Central, by a huge couloir. The short snow-rock ridge of the buttress to the south ends in a wide almost vertical wall, cut almost in the middle by a weakly inclined crack from bottom to top, where it ends to the left (west) of a characteristic rock tower protrusion. The key section of our route follows mainly along this crack. Approach to the route. From the "Dzhailyk" alpine camp, follow the trail along the right bank of the Kulumkol-su river to the last large clearing under the terminal moraines of the glaciers of the gorge — "lower paradise camping".