Central Council of Physical Culture and Sports

Report

on the ascent to v. Tyutyu-bashi 2nd West by S wall of S buttress — first ascent, 5A cat. difficulty, approximately, made on August 2–3, 1979 on the Central Caucasus, in the Adyr-su gorge by a group of climbers from "Dzhailyk" alpine camp in the following composition:

• SERGEY ANATOLYEVICH RYZHIKOV — Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor
• ANDREY EVGENYEVICH PETROV — 1st sports category.

On August 2–3, 1979, a group of climbers from "Dzhailyk" alpine camp consisting of: Sergey Anatolyevich RYZHIKOV, Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor, and Andrey Evgenyevich PETROV, 1st sports category, made a first ascent of the route to the summit of Tyutyu-bashi 2nd West by the South wall of the southern buttress, approximately 5A category of difficulty.

The southern buttress is located somewhat east of the southern edge, along which a 3B category route is laid to the same summit, and is separated from the edge by snowy slopes and a wide couloir. The buttress is separated from the walls of the 3rd Western Tyutyu-bashi — Central, by a huge couloir. The short snow-rock ridge of the buttress to the south ends in a wide almost vertical wall, cut almost in the middle by a weakly inclined crack from bottom to top, where it ends to the left (west) of a characteristic rock tower protrusion. The key section of our route follows mainly along this crack.

Approach to the route. From the "Dzhailyk" alpine camp, follow the trail along the right bank of the Kulumkol-su river to the last large clearing under the terminal moraines of the glaciers of the gorge — "lower paradise camping".

Here, turn left and follow the trail on grassy slopes, then scree, always bearing left, enter the left side of the Western Tyutyusi glacier. Along the Western glacier, sticking to its left side (in the middle part of the glacier — covered crevasses), exit, bypassing the Tyutuyskie camping on the moraine under the glacier, under the wall of the route along the S edge to v. 2nd West Tyutu. By-passing the wall to the right along the glacier, exit to the S wall of the S buttress. From the "Dzhailyk" alpine camp — 3.5–4 hours.

Route description.

R0–R1. Along the snowy and icy, then destroyed rocks (live rocks!) ascend under the wall 250–300 m. Under the overhanging rock cornice of the wall, it is possible to lay out a site for a semi-reclining overnight stay for two.

The lower part of the wall overhangs with monolithic rocks. The start is in the lower part of the cleft.

R1–R2. Up along a vaguely expressed inner corner 20 m. Climbing above average difficulty, then to the right onto an oblique ledge (2 hooks, 1 loop with a carabiner) 25 m, 70°. Along the oblique ledge to the right. R2–R3. Along the oblique ledge to the right and up 5 m, then 5 m up under the overhang and further along the oblique crack to the right to a small inclined shelf with snow. 30 m, 5 hooks. 30 m, 80°. R3–R4. Straight up 15 m under the overhang. Through the overhang up (ladder, hooks can be driven only in the crack under the overhang). Further difficult exit 10 m to a narrow ledge. Control cairn. 30 m, 90°, 5 hooks. R4–R5. Very difficult exit to the right through the outer corner, then up under the crack-chimney 10 m. 15 m, 80°, 3 hooks, ladder. R5–R6. Along the vertical crack-chimney of tapering inward beak-like section to the fork of the crack, then along the right crack. The crack slowly tapers inward, the rocks are monolithic, smooth, without cracks, so it is possible to place only wedges or wide-profile hooks in the crack itself, leading the carabiner on a loop. Therefore, it is difficult to drive hooks. Climbing is extremely difficult. 30 m, 85°, 2 loops, 7 hooks, 3 ladders.

We exit onto a wide 1–1.5 m, long (up to 10 m) shelf, slightly inclined. A sitting overnight stay is possible.

R6–R7. Upward are steep monolithic rocks. Along the crack-chimney up 40 m:

• The crack is initially wide — up to 1.5 m
• After 20 m it narrows to 0.3–0.5 m
• There are practically no holds, very few cracks
• Very difficult and varied friction climbing
• The narrow part is "crawled" up on exhalation in a wedge chest-back

Equipment and features:

• 6 hooks
• 1 cam
• Loop
• Ladder
• 40 m, 90°
• No ledges for belay

R7–R8. The crack somewhat flattens out, difficult climbing through 40 m leads to a small inclined shelf with stones. 40 m, 75°, 4 hooks.

R8–R9. From here, along the rocks of medium difficulty and simple rocks 80 m bypassing to the left the characteristic rock tower — to the saddle of the buttress. 80 m, 45°, 2 hooks.

R9–R10. To the right along narrow snowy ledges, in places ice, belay for protrusions, move in the direction of the saddle between the 2nd and Central peaks of Tyutyu-bashi. 60 m. Then along the rocks of medium difficulty, to the left, ascend under the wall and further along the rocks covered with ice, climbing above medium difficulty 20 m, then 30 m exit to the rocks of the type of "ram's foreheads", along which 50 m climbing of medium difficulty to the snowy ridge of the summit. 45 m, 160°, 1 hook.

Descent along the route 2A cat. difficulty on Tyutyu-bashi 2nd West to the glacier and further to the camping.

Route passage. We left the "Dzhailyk" alpine camp on August 2 at 14:00. At 18:30 we stopped for an overnight stay under the wall — point R1 of the route description. On the morning of August 3, in excellent weather, we started on the wall at 6:15 and were on the summit at 18:00.

Sections R1–R6 were first passed by S. A. Ryzhikov, sections R6–R9 — first passed by Petrov.

Features of the passage:

• The first one went on a double rope — 60 m, folded in half.
• The wall part was passed in galoshes.
• The first climber experienced muscle cramps in his hands.
• There was one backpack: boots, food, bivouac equipment.

Conclusions and recommendations.

1. The route is rocky, saturated with difficult climbing, length 700 m, sections of 5–6 cat. difficulty — 160 m, proposed 5A cat. difficulty.
2. The optimal group composition is 2 people.
3. The wall part is passed in galoshes.
4. The route is logical.
5. A good set of hooks is necessary. Drill-in hooks are not necessary.
6. Overnight stays are possible under the wall, on the saddle of the tower, on the summit. A sitting overnight stay is possible on a long ledge.

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE

Long ledge, a sitting overnight stay is possible.

Total: rock hooks — 33, chocks — 3, loops — 3, ladders — 6. Climbing hours — 20.

Morning after an overnight stay under the wall.

S. Ryzhikov exits to the traverse on section R6–R7.