3. Uky via the Southeast Ridge, 2A.

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, ascend via the trail to the “golubyatnya” FAP shelter and reach the M. Ukyu glacier. Traverse the right side to bypass the steep rise of the glacier under the base of Ukyu's South ridge, then proceed along the middle of the glacier towards the Ukyu col. 250 m before the col (1.5–2 hours from the “golubyatnya”), move from the glacier leftward onto the talus under the base of the Southeastern ridge's rocky massif that descends towards the col. Along the boundary between the rocks (on the right) and the wide talus couloir, ascend to the talus “shoulder” of Ukyu's Southeast ridge — 1–1.5 hours from the glacier. Along the rocky ridge with simultaneous protection via outcrops and pitons, the “jandarms” are passed directly. The pre-summit rise of the ridge is overcome via the wall left of the ridge: from the talus saddle (possibly snowy), traverse left along a ledge for 30 m, then up and right via a wide rock chimney, exiting it leftward through a cleft with a plug, then via moss-covered blocks onto the ridge — protection via outcrops. In other variations of ascending the rise, piton protection is used. The gentle pre-summit section is passed simultaneously along the ridge line. 2–2.5 hours from reaching the ridge. Descent follows the ascent route down to the “golubyatnya”, taking 1.5–2 hours. Special equipment: 5–6 rock pitons or chocks.

Ullu-Auz from Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass.

The summit of Ullu-Auz-Bashi (4679 m) is located in a branch of the lateral ridge, separating the basins of Dumala and Mizhyrgi rivers. The ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi from Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi Pass is classified as 3A category of difficulty.

Day 1.

From the "Bezengi" road, the path goes along the left-bank moraine of the Mizhyrgi glacier until the trail disappears and the moraine descends to the level of the glacier (about an hour and a half of walking), then you need to reach the glacier and ascend along its middle to the first step of the Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall. The first step is passed on the right side along the gentlest ice slope. You should not approach the slopes of Mizhyrgi due to possible snow avalanches, and after passing the first step, you need to quickly move up to the left to the left edge of the second step of the icefall. The lower part of the second step of the icefall is bypassed (on the left) along the talus (50–60 m), then the path goes to the right and leads to the ice above the steep ice slope. Here, crampons are usually put on. Further, the path goes:

• straight up the icefall,
• about 20–50 m from its left edge. Numerous crevices are filled with serac debris and are passed without difficulty. The most difficult section of the second step is located in its upper part, where it may be necessary to:

Ural V. via S. wall, 4А

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the KSP “golubyatnya” shelter, here exit onto the Ukyu glacier, on it, keeping to the right side, ascend (200 m short of) to the Ukyu pass, 2 hours (Fig. 1). From the glacier, right and up 150 m along the snowy slope to the bergschrund. Then move up along the ice ridge going left of all the rocky islands under the saddle between the peaks of M. and V. Ural. The ridge abuts against the rocky tower of M. Ural, here right — under the tower's rocks — exit to the saddle. From the start of the route 3–4 hours. From the saddle up the wide chimney with protection via rock pitons 25 m to the plug, exit from the chimney right and up the wall 10 m to a ledge with a good protrusion (rappel loop). From the ledge:

• left and up 20 m to a rocky outcrop (protrusion 3–4 m);
• then along the rocks (possible snow, ice) 35–40 m to the E. ridge (second loop). From here:
• along the inner corner 20 m to the summit.

Fig. 17

Traversing p. Akritov (3705 m) — p. Agibalova (3705 m) from E.

Caucasus, Sugansky ridge

Strebejev V.N.

July 20, 2002

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Caucasus, Digoria, Sugansky ridge
3. Traversing p. Akritov (p. 3705 m, E) — p. Agibalova (p. 3705 m, W), from E.
4. Suggested — 3B cat. diff. rock
5. Height difference 900 m, length 1150 m.

Galdor Centralny, 3980 m, via the South Buttress Wall, Caucasus, Sugan Range. Strebeyev V.N., August 18, 1995

Passport

1). Technical category 2). Caucasus, Digoria, Sugan Range 3). Galdor Centralny via the S buttress wall (3980) 4). Proposed — 3B cat. diff. combined 5). Height difference 1100 m, length 1300 m, section lengths:

• 3A — 3B cat. diff. — 90 m (buttress),
• 4A cat. diff. — 30 m (inner corner, "Rusty Wall").

Dolomit Severny from Dolomit Severny Pass, 2A

Route description:

From Chat bivouac, ascend via the right moraine and large talus slopes into the talus cirque between Chat-bashi Peak (left) and Dolomit Severny Peak (right). From here, take a straightforward snowy-talus slope to reach Dolomit Severny Pass. From the pass, traverse a 300-meter crumbling ridge to its sharp depression. From this point, descend leftwards to a ledge, then follow a chimney (R2) and a ridge composed of slabs to approach a large slab (R4) overhanging the ridge. Bypass it on the left via talus (loose rocks!). Continue via rocky terrain to a large "roof" slab lying edge-upwards, a key landmark. Bypass the "roof" on the left through a couloir and then ascend to the summit ascent via the ridge (beware of cornices early in the season!). From the ascent, descend via straightforward rocky terrain to a large talus saddle, then ascend the summit via a straightforward talus slope. The ascent takes approximately 5.5 hours from the bivouac. The descent from the summit follows the "Dоломит Северный по центру бастиона Западной стены" route, exiting onto Okhotnichy Pass. Then, descend via talus and snowy slopes to the bivouac in the Chat-bashi cirque (40 minutes from the pass).

Severny Dolomit Peak — 3700 m

Ascent via the southwest wall — category 3–6 difficulty (Description along the route to the summit) The path to the bivouac on Dolomit Lake — see the route description to Yuzhny Dolomit. From the bivouac, traverse scree to the base of the wall, in the direction of two black streaks of running water on the wall. Below them is an alluvial cone and above it, three caves. The ascent primarily follows the left streak. The lower part of the wall is very steep — so after the scree slope, move left onto ledges. The sequential transition from the 1st to the 2nd and then to the 3rd ledge is via internal rock corners (Protection!). The third ledge leads into a couloir with a black streak, along which the ascent continues. From the 3rd ledge, traverse the couloir and continue upwards — along the right side of the couloir. The rocks here are of the "sheep's back" type (Protection! Pitons!). In case of bad weather, a second ascent option is possible (After entering the couloir, ascend to its right ridge and follow it up to the end of the couloir. This path is technically more challenging). Along the rocks on the right side of the couloir, ascend to a 4-meter wall below a large black overhanging wall. Cross the wall (Pitons! Can be traversed with a boost) and then ascend 30 m via easy rocks to the ridge, traverse it, and then move right into the 2nd couloir. Traverse right-up through the couloir to ledges. Along the ledges, ascend to the 2nd stream (Protection!) and follow it up along rocks of the "sheep's back" type (Protection! Pitons!) to a wide scree ledge. From the base of the wall — 5 hours. Along the ledge, move left to the 1st stream. On the edge of the ledge — a control cairn.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Dolomit Severny via the right part of the western wall, category 4A by the team led by Popov V.I.

I. Climbing Passport

M86. Dolomit Tsentralny via West Face

(rock route, category 4B, first ascent by Yu. Melnik, 1965) From the lake, head up and to the right along the scree towards the couloir between the North (left) and Central (right) Dolomites. The couloir ends at the bottom with a block of steep cliffs resembling "ram's foreheads". Ascend to a small rocky ridge via its lower right part, 150 m from the couloir. The ridge divides in half two short, gentle couloirs resembling internal corners to the right of the main couloir. From here, the starting point of the route is visible - a huge internal corner - the "Book". The ascent to the ledge R0 below the "Book" follows the terrain without visible landmarks and lacks a defined line. It takes 3.5 hours from the bivouac. From the R0 ledge, ascend via the crack with the overhanging left "page of the book". Then, move up and to the right along a sloping ledge, cross to the other "page of the book", and exit it via the internal corner onto a ledge to the control cairn R2 (strenuous climbing). From the cairn, traverse 4 m to the left along the slab, then ascend to a small ledge. From here, via the R3 crack between two slabs, exit under the overhang of the left slab into an internal corner (strenuous climbing; when there's verglas on the slabs, the middle 10 m of the slab are traversed using ladders). Ascend 8 m up the corner and then move right onto a grey slab - an internal corner leading to a narrow ledge R5. It takes 3.5 hours from the "Book". From the slab's edge, move left and ascend up and to the right, bypassing monolithic overhangs along a 10-meter narrow ledge. At its end, ascend straight up along smooth rocks (beware of loose rocks! blind cracks). Reach the next ledge R7. It's also possible to ascend directly from R6 via a hanging crack, but if it's icy, it's better to go to the right.