Activity Feed
Route Description: СЗ ребру и правой части С стены
### Description of the 5B category complexity route to the summit of Arkhon Maly (3953 m) via the North face of the Western ridge, including details on the approach, ascent, and descent.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — first ascent.
- Ascent area — Tepli-Arkhon massif.
- Peak — Arkhon Malyy, its height — 3953 m, ascent route — via the Northern wall of the Western ridge.
- Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections with 5B-6 difficulty category — 370 m, average steepness 76° (of the wall section).
- Pitons hammered: | | rock | ice | bolt | stopper | |:---|:---:|:----:|:---:|:-----:| | for belay: | 86 | 3 | 0 | 34 |
Route Description: 1-му кф. С гребня
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Jimaray-khokh (4773 m) via the North Ridge, category 3B difficulty, with a detailed description of the approach, ascent, and descent.
Ascent Passport
I. Climbing category: technical 2. Climbing area: Caucasus; 2.8; Kolka glacier 3. Peak, route: Dzhimaraikhokh peak (4773 m); I knee-fold of the North ridge from Kolka glacier 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B category of difficulty; first ascent 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2000 m, route length — 2800 m, length of sections: 5 category of difficulty — 20 m, 4 category of difficulty — 200 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 40°–45° 6. Pitons hammered: ice screws — 50 pcs., rock pitons — 3 pcs., chocks — none 7. Number of climbing hours/days — 20/2
Route Description: С гребню
### Description of the Route Details on traversing the 2B category complexity route to Peak Skryabin via the North Ridge, including approach details and technically challenging sections.
Approach Description
From the confluence of the Zaki and Zrug rivers along the dirt road that runs along the Zrug River to the ruins of the church. About 20 km. A kilometer upstream, the river splits into two tributaries:
- Follow the right tributary eragrafically for 1.5 hours to the kosh.
- Then, head right along the stream (eragrafically, the left side of the gorge).
- Enter a small cirque formed by two ridges of p. Skryabina. Bivouac is possible. From the church, it takes 4–4.5 hours.
Route Description
P. Skryabina via the North Ridge, category III difficulty. From the bivouac, head right onto the ridge. Then, along the ridge for 250–300 m (R0–R1), category I difficulty. After that, the ridge turns into a mountain slope with minor ascents (R1–R2), 100 m, category II difficulty.
Route Description: Ю стене
Description of the ascent to the summit of "Peak Shesti" via the southern wall, category 5B, climbed by Georgian climbers in August.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent Class — Technical
- Ascent Region — Central Caucasus
- Summit — Pik Shestirekh via the South Face
- Estimated Difficulty Category — 5B
- Route Characteristics:
- Elevation Gain — 1100 m
- Average Steepness — 65°
- Pitons Driven:
- Rock Pitons — 95
Route Description: левой части ЮЗ стены
Description of the Trikozov route to the summit of [Цей-Лоам](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chei_Loam) via the SW wall, category 4A difficulty level, with details of the ascent and technical features.
Description of the route to the summit of Tsey-Loam via the SW wall (Trikozov's route), 4A category of difficulty 2.9.54 according to KMGV
Trikozov's route on Tsey-Loam peak in the Dzheyrakh district of Ingushetia is an interesting, moderately complex and technical line. In the first ascenders' report, the category of difficulty is indicated as 3A, while in the FAR classifier, it is listed as 4A category of difficulty. The name "via the NW wall" is a typo; the route actually follows the SW wall. The route is more challenging than the route through a series of chimneys on the right part of the SE wall on Zub peak, 4A category of difficulty, but easier than Donskov's route on the left edge of the SW ridge on Koazoy-Loam peak, 4B category of difficulty. The route is not recommended as a first independent 4A climb: it involves pendulum moves, diagonal belays, and artificial climbing techniques (ITC), and requires navigation skills on the approach and the route. Descending via the ascent route is complicated due to numerous diagonal sections.
The approach to the route starts along the grassy slopes immediately behind the Kyazi tourist center in the direction of the SW wall of Tsey-Loam peak (photo 1). The jagged peaks are bypassed on the left via grassy ledges. The route's landmark is the couloir running along the SW wall and a massive plug at its beginning (photo 3).
Photo 1. Approach from Kyazi tourist center. Internet photograph
R0–R1: A 10 m wall of easy climbing, bypassing the plug in the couloir, followed by 600 m along the couloir. Scree, "ram's foreheads," and hard firn at the beginning of May. The simple terrain leads out to the right from the couloir onto the R1 ridge between the wall and the rocky ridge (photo 4). The main couloir continues upwards (photo 5).
R1–R2: 60 m upwards of easy climbing.
Route Description: центру Ю стены
Report on the ascent made by the Samara Region team to the summit of Tsey-Loam via the 5B category route through the center of the southern wall.
Russian Mountaineering Championship 2021 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents.
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Tsey-Loam (Kyazi) 3171 via the route through the center of the S wall (Kurochkin's route), 5B category of difficulty by the team from Samara Region for the period from October 28 to 29, 2021. 2021 year
1. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information |
|---|
Route Description: правой части Ю стены
Report on the first ascent via the left part of the southeast wall of the Gaykomd peak in the Caucasus by a team from the Alpinism Federation of the Republic of Buryatia in 2017.
Alpinism Federation of the Republic of Buryatia
Report on the ascent of FARB team to the summit of Gaikomd, first ascent via the left part of the southeast wall
Russian Championship. Technical Class. February 2017 Ulan-Ude 2017
Ascent Passport
- Ascent area: Caucasus, from Krestovyi pass to Shaviklde peak
- Peak: Gaikomd, 3192 m, first ascent via the left part of the SE wall
- Estimated category of difficulty: 5B, first ascent.
- Route characteristics: rock.
Route Description: центру левой части ЮВ стены
Report on the first ascent of "Nebo yanvarya" ("January Sky") route, 6A category of difficulty via the SE wall of Gaykomd Glavny peak (3171 m) in January 2018.
Ministry of Sports of Krasnoyarsk Krai
Krasnoyarsk Regional Alpine Federation
Russian Mountaineering Championship
2018
Snow and Ice Class
Report
On the first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team – 1 to the summit of Gaikomd (Kyazi) Main, 3171 m, via the central left part of the SE wall, named "Nebo yanvarya" (January Sky). The first ascent is approximately category 6A difficulty. Krasnoyarsk 2018
Team Leader:
Zhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich
Route Description: левой части ЮВ стены
Report on the team's ascent to the summit of [Tsey-Loam](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tsey-Loam) via a 6A complexity category route on the left part of the SE wall.
REGIONAL PUBLIC ORGANIZATION "FEDERATION OF ALPINISM OF MOSCOW REGION"
Russian Championship in Alpinism
2024 year
High-Altitude Technical Class
Report
on the ascent made by the team of GK UAL Moscow Region – Perm Krai to the summit of Tsey-Loam (Kyazi), 3171 m via the left part of the SE wall (K. Dorro's route), 6A category of complexity, from 04.06.2024 to 04.06.2024 Cherepovets 2024 ASCENT DOCUMENT | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Chikin Artem Borisovich (CMS) |
Route Description: диретиссиме З стены
Report on the second ascent of the direttissima of the western wall of Zub Sofrudju peak, 6A category of difficulty by the "Freeline" alpine club team from Essentuki.
Report on the second ascent by the team from the multifaceted mountaineering club "Freeline" in Essentuki
To the summit of Zub Sofruju
via the direttissima of the western wall, 6A category of difficulty Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2020 Addresses: 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, Oktyabrskaya St., 434, apt. 59 Popov M.L. 89282657130