Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Caucasus.
2. Rock class.
3. Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
4. Peak Dombay-Ulgen Western (4036 m), through the center of the Triangle of the southern wall.
5. Proposed 6B category difficulty, first ascent.
6. Route characteristics: height difference: 1036 m, length — 1690 m; length of sections 5–6 category difficulty — 605 m; average steepness of the main part of the route (Triangle South wall) — 84°;

143. Tikhtengen South via the Eastern ridge (route is combined, T. Longstaff, cat.4B, fig. 20, 23). From the initial bivouac on Tsanner flats (item 141) move across the plateau towards the snowy couloir of the Eastern ridge of Tikhtengen saddle, to the right of the steep ascent to pyramidal IV and three small gendarmes. From the plateau, after crossing the bergschrund, ascend 200-250 m up the snowy couloir to the saddle of the Eastern ridge. On the saddle, turn left and ascend rocks of above average difficulty, then ascend snowy rocks of average difficulty of the Eastern ridge to reach the I gendarme. Further,

Semenovsky Peak via NW spur 3A

From the Bezengi Glacier, above where the 3rd stream flowing from the SW cirque of Dykh-Tau meets the glacier, ascend via avalanche debris, then along a dry riverbed and a grassy-scree slope to the right of the spur. Traverse the 'ram's foreheads' to the right and above them, left along rocky ledges onto the ridge of the spur, about 1 hour from the glacier. Along the ridge on moss-covered solid rocks with simultaneous belay on outcrops and rock pitons for 1.5–2 hours. Further: along an 80–100 m scree slope, bypassing a 'gendarme - camel' to the left, 30 m along a simple ridge and another 60–80 m on scree. Then: 60 m along slabs to the left of the ridge with piton belay and another 30 m along a heavily destroyed ridge to a col before the final Semenovsky Peak, (4050) steep ascent of the rocky ridge. From here, 20 m to the left (caution: unstable rocks, possible ice) and 10 m up a wall (piton) onto the edge of the northern snow-ice slope of the summit. 200 m along a 'pocket' between the snowy slope and rocks, 150 m along a gentle snow-ice ridge (attention - belay via ice screws) and along a snowy slope to the SW ridge, 80–100 m to the left to the summit. 8–10 hours from the glacier. Descent along the S ridge according to description 1. Hazardous places: on the rocky section of the spur - heavily destroyed rocks, rockfall hazard, on the pre-summit ridge - possible ice.

153. Shaurtu Severная — Glavnaya

(combined route, category III difficulty, fig. 14, 16, 17). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp (group of 2-4 people) to the summit of Shaurtu Severная is described in route 147. From Shaurtu Severная, descend via simple ridge rocks towards the Glavnaya summit. Overcome the big gendarme directly via steep, broken rocks of medium difficulty (piton belay). From the big gendarme, descend via steep rocks with a low gendarme onto a narrow, possibly snow-covered, saddle (cornice). From the saddle, traverse a big, wide gendarme via snow-covered simple, местами medium difficulty ridge rocks, and descend from it onto a saddle (cornice). From this saddle, traverse a small gendarme along the ridge and reach the col below

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Sugansky Ridge, Classification section number 2.6.
2. Gabueva Mahara peak (4160 m) — from the South, via the Southern edge.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route elevation gain — about 700 m (from point R0). Total route length — about 1800 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 2 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 90°. Average steepness of the entire route — 40°.
6. Pitons left on the route — none. Number of used rock protection — 7.
7. Climbing hours — 5; days — 1.

South Sugan

South Sugan (3900 m) is a small peak in the ridge connecting the Sugan ridge with the Main ridge, between the peaks of Shtulu to the south and False Sugan to the north. The slopes of the peak are home to:

• Western glaciers - snowfields that feed the Akhsu river
• Eastern glaciers - snowfields that feed the Orsdon river Technically simple, heavily destroyed South Sugan is rarely visited by climbers (mainly during traverse with False Sugan). The only route was climbed on August 4, 1929, by L. Gasparotto, U. Vallepiano, K. Geron, G. Zinger.

47. South Sugan via the South ridge (combined route, 1B category of difficulty, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-20 people) to the tongue of the Doppakh glacier is described in route 46. From here, ascend the moraine to the tongue of the Doppakh glacier and cross it to the left in the direction of a small snow slope under the saddle of the South ridge of the South Sugan peak. After crossing the glacier, cross a small stream flowing from under the small hanging Soldier glacier, which is located under the saddle of the ridge connecting the peaks of South Sugan to the left and False Sugan to the right. Then traverse left - up the scree slopes of the southeastern slopes of the South Sugan peak, in the direction of a large snowfield under the saddle of the South ridge of the peak. Up the snowfield, straight up, then up the gentle ("live") rocks (insurance) - ascent of 50-60 m to the saddle of the South ridge of the South Sugan peak.

151. Bo­dorku Za­pad­nuyu from the south via the couloir and the Eastern ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 20, 23). On the saddle (point 150) turn left and ascend via an easy gentle, in places sharp (belay required), with short simple walls, heavily destroyed and snow-covered (cornices) 300–400-meter rocky Eastern ridge to the summit of Bo­dorku Za­pad­nuyu. From the Ly­chad­skie plo­schad­ki 3–4 hours.