Mshatka-Kaya — 15 h

Author: Aleksandr Lavri­nen­ko, Odes­sa

“Not That Way!” 5B 270 m 6c A3

T. Tush­ko — A. Lavri­nen­ko, Feb­ru­ary 2007 The idea was to fol­low a big cor­nice to the right of “Ryzhiy Vyval” (The Red­dish Out­burst); pho­tos gave hope

• as a crack was vis­i­ble along the cen­ter of the cor­nice. Up close it turned out to be not a crack, but a scar from a de­tached boul­der. Hav­ing said good­bye to a beau­ti­ful idea, but sav­ing a dozen bol­ters and avoid­ing a cold over­nigh­t, we reached the sum­mit via a com­plex zig­zag. The ap­proach and first 2 ropes coin­cide with the “Treugol’nik Sleva” (Tri­an­gle on the Left) route. 2-3

"The Final Stroke" (5b).

We made the first attempt to climb the route with Max Polyakov in winter 2009, but various reasons prevented us from completing it. We removed the ropes and left. Now, on April 1 and 2, Sanya Khomenko and I finished the route. Description by sections: the route starts from the same ledge as "Vosemorka", "Pesnya", "Khokhol cherez zerkala", and goes between "Pesnya" and "Khokhol". The beginning is easy to read; there is a bolt 8 meters above the ledge. Sokol, "The Final Stroke" route (5B). The route line is highlighted in blue. High-resolution photo 0–1 A small approach, then onto the bolts to a piton, from it up to the right to a crack with grass. Up through a series of cracks, sometimes on a slab. Belay station on a bolt and a hook. 40 m, A3. From the station, it's recommended to climb to the next bolt without accepting the belay to reduce the fall factor. 1–2 Up to the right on a slab with cavities (anchors, skyhooks), get over the bend, then on a more gentle slab to the station. There's a bolt. 35 m, VI, A3. 2–3 From the station, up to the left through an overgrown crack for about 10 meters, then ITO on the slab in the direction up to the left to a sloping ledge. On it, a station — a bolt and an anchor. 40 m, VI, A3. 3–4 From the station, 4 meters up to the left, then up on the slab to a small ledge, up to the right to the second ledge. From its left part, up through a series of cracks. Station on a bolt. 35 m, VI, A3. 4–5 From the station, up to the left, then up into an internal corner formed by the edge of a large flake and a wall. Up the corner, then up to the right under a small cornice. Through the cornice up to the right, then traverse to the right onto a ledge. Station on a bolt and a hook. 35 m, V, A3.

New route on Sokol "AlisA" 5B

In Crimea (Sudak region) on Sokol mountain between "Vos'merka" and "Ryzhiy Ugol" routes a new route "AlisA" 5B has appeared. Sokol mountain (Sudak) The "AlisA" route is 160 m long from R0. The start of the route is the same as the R0 station of "Ryzhiy Ugol". On the wall, there is an inscription "AlisA". You need to go through a vertical slit - a groove above the inscription.□

Thread of the "AlisA" route

R1, R2, R3 stations are equipped with rappel rings. R4 station is on a plateau - a tree. The route is thoroughly cleaned of loose rocks and flakes. The route is recommended for well-prepared climbers in technical and psychological terms.

• relief skyhooks
• hole skyhooks
• vertical and horizontal cams
• topo guides in sufficient quantity

Sokol Peak — «Time Machine» 6A

A new route «Time Machine» 6A has been completed on Sokol Peak (Crimea, Sudak). The route length is 390 m. It took more than a week to complete the first ascent with breaks for New Year holidays and rest days. The climb started on December 29, 2011, and finished on January 11, 2012. Route authors:

• Sergey Pugachev
• Sergey Nadtochiy

Technical description of the route

R0–R1: II, 20 m, 55°, F5a; The start of the route is at the base of an inclined slab, moving towards a large juniper tree. Station on a tree. R1–R2: VI, 50 m, 80°, A2, e4, (four bolts). From the station after the tree, move left to an overhanging crack, then up through it. After the second bolt, climb left onto a destroyed slab (ignore the separate lying boulder) — climb to the right. After the bolt, move left to a vertical crack and continue up it to the station.

Triangle — 5. "Orthodox"

Massif: Triangle (1000 m) Complexity: 6A, VI, A3+ Authors: E. Poltavets (Kharkov), A. Lavrinenko (Odessa) Year of creation: 2010 Length: 485 m Time to complete: 15–20 h Route description: The line passes through the central part of Triangle. The route is long, laborious, and minimally equipped with bolts. The rock is not monolithic everywhere. From the overnight stay, approach the wall and move left for 100 m. The route starts 50 m to the left of the start of route №6 "Druzhba" — the letter "D" on the wall. The starting point is marked by fresh collapse traces under the wall. R0–R1 45 m. Up a five-meter overhanging wall to the right. The terrain then becomes more manageable. Move left and up along a wide crack with a small tree. After 30 m, the crack turns right and disappears. On the wall, move left and up 8 m towards the inner corner to a bolt, then climb left into the corner. It's better to set up a station in the corner, under the protection of a ledge, as the second section has very crumbling rocks.

• 35 m V
• 8 m VI A3+
• 3 m V R1–R2 35 m. Without using the resonating plate on skyhooks, move right and up (3 holes), then up through crumbling terrain; there are two bolts. From the second bolt, move along a shelf to the left, then up 5–7 m through a crumbling corner. Station on personal anchors.

Description of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi, 4A cat. difficulty

Written by Katterrin on April 23, 2010. Before the May holidays, I finally gathered my thoughts to write a description of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi, 3B cat. difficulty. Maybe it will be useful to someone. Route "Bashnya" on Chelebi

4₁, cat. difficulty

UIAA scheme of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi from the guidebook "Skaly u morya" (Rocks by the Sea) The route is located in the leftmost part of the Chelebi massif; to its right is the route 2B "po Kaminu" (via the Chimney).

The route in question is laid out on the northeastern side of the main peak of Layub Vostochny. The route can be conditionally divided into four parts:

• the lower part — a snowy slope, a snow-ice cone, rocks, below the "sheep's foreheads";
• the overhanging Northeast wall;
• the ridge of the counterfort;
• the rocky-snowy ridge of the summit. The route is generally complicated by solid rocky formations, heavily snowed, and sheer sections covered with accreted ice. The greatest difficulty is presented by a three-hundred-meter wall, with an overall steepness of more than 90°. The passage is facilitated by the presence of two giant internal corners crossing the wall in a zigzag from left to right, then from right to left (sections R4–R5, R5–R6, R6–R7) in the direction of the counterfort ridge. The most challenging part is the upper section of the wall (sections R9–R18), composed of ice-covered slabs with a steepness of 80°–90° and in places overhanging up to 120° and corniced. Further, the route passes along the complex steep rocks of the counterfort, transitioning into the rocky-snowy ridge of the summit.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Shokoladny Peak via the grooves of the southwest wall, Kurochkin route, category 5B, undertaken by the MPEI Alpine Club team from August 19 to 21, 2022.

I. Ascent Report

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Kurochkin Alexey Vitalievich, CMS
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Markevich Konstantin Georgievich, MS, Yablokov Evgeny Alexandrovich, CMS
1.3	Full Name of Coach	Kutkin Sergey Anatolievich, CMS
1.4	Organization	MPEI Alpine Club
	2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Tsey gorge, section number according to the classification table: 2.7.
2. Khitsan (3600 m), via the Western ridge from the South.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 450 m. Route length: 1200 m. Section lengths:

• V category — 0 m
• VI category — 0 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 20°, total route: 25°.

6. Pitons left on the route: total 0; including drill pitons — 0, ice screws driven — 1.

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Daut valley, classification table number 2.2
2. Peak Kyshkadzher 3837 m (by GPS), via the 3rd ridge
3. Category of difficulty — 4A (presumably), first ascent
4. Route character — rocky
5. Height difference of the route — 260 m Route length — 760 m. Average steepness of the route — 28°
6. Total equipment used: Rock pitons — 7, Nuts — 37
7. Left on the route during descent — 1 bolt piton