North­ern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via the right part of the West Ridge Category III difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye valley.
2. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via the right part of the West Ridge
3. Proposed: Category 3A

4.2.154

Description of the ascent to Peak Paustovsky via the North Ridge

We reach the Paustovsky glacier moraine. The lower part of the glacier is flat and crevasse-free. One should head towards a large rocky outcrop that ends in the north ridge. Then:

• Ascend via ledges and steps with careful belaying, deviating slightly left.
• Be aware of loose rocks.
• In the upper part, a snow cornice is bypassed on the left. The path along the rocky outcrop leads to the ridge. Here, a large snow plateau with a slope to the right opens up. After traversing 80–100 m, we reach the snow ridge, which should be traversed wearing crampons. The ridge ends at a gendarme. The ascent to the gendarme begins with a steep ice slope. About 2/3 of the way up, there's a rocky outcrop. Belaying is done using an ice screw. The slope's steepness is 60–70°, and it's ascended by cutting steps.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Trans-Ili Alatau.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pioneer, 4050 m, via the southern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: a) wall height difference — 275 m; b) section lengths: 2 — 30 m; 3 — 445 m; 4 — 115 m; 5 — 92 m; c) average wall steepness — 68°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating intermediate belays, rock pitons — 33, bolt pitons — 4, chocks — 6.
7. Total climbing hours — 7 h 20 min.
8. Number of overnight stays — none.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

Ascent Passport

1: Class of ascent — combined 2: Region of ascent — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge 3. Peak Sportivnaya, height 4000 m, western ridge 4. Presumed category of difficulty — 3B 5. Characteristics of the route:

• height difference — 700 m.
• length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 20 m.
• average steepness — 40°

6. Pitons driven:

II Δ ⊂ Π ∘ P T

I. The route is rock climbing 2. Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai gorge, KSP of Kyrgyz Ala-Too 3. Peak Bokc, center of the eastern wall 4. First ascent 5. Height difference: 840 m, route length: 1780 m sections:

• I cat. diff. — 80 m
• II cat. diff. — 140 m
• III cat. diff. — 480 m

I. Climbing category­­ — first ascent 2. Climbing area­­ — Kyrgyzsky ridge, Golubina lake area 3. Peak "Klov" (tentative name) 3920 m via N ridge, route type­­ — rock 4. Proposed category of difficulty­­ — 3A 5. Route description: height difference­­ — 2 km, length of sections 3­­–4 km, cat. diff.­­ — 240 m, average steepness­­ — 45° 6. Pitons driven: - rock­­ — 14 - chocks­­ — 11/2 - ice­­ — 0 7. Total climbing hours­­ — 8 h

I. The route is rock. 2. Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge, KSP of Kyrgyz Ala-Too. 3. Peak Ratsek along the ridge from the north. 4. First ascent. 5. Height difference: 440 m, route length: 1200 m. section

• 4 cat. diff. — 20 m.
• 3 cat. diff. — 200 m.
• 2 cat. diff. — 200 m.

1.9 Peak Ratseka via the Northwest Ridge, 2B

Name in the classifier: "via the NW ridge" Hardware requirements:

• Crampons
• Set of stoppers
• Rock pitons
• 4-6 quickdraws
• 14-16 carabiners
• 3-4 slings Maximum height: 3930 m

1st day of ascent. February 8, 1990. The group started the route at 3:00 AM. Section P0–P2. The upper snow-filled passage is traversed to the right under the ice wall. The sheer ice wall is climbed using Alpfiz with ice screws, with a short traverse to the left under the rocks of p. Sinagina. The belay spot is uncomfortable. Section P2–P6. The ice slope, with an average steepness of 65°, is climbed along the left part of the couloir, pressing against the rocks. Closer to the center of the couloir, snow dust pours down, making it difficult to work. Section R6–R7. The ice cornice is climbed to the left and upwards, leading to a very steep internal angle. The climbing is tense, and the belay spot is very uncomfortable. Section R7–R8. The ice internal angle leads to a ridge, the belay spot is uncomfortable, and it transitions into a rocky internal angle, with rocks covered in ice, making the climbing tense, and the belay spot uncomfortable. Section R8–R10. A series of moderately difficult rock walls with small, smooth holds covered in ice lead to a steep "chimney" with a plug. Section P10–P11. Climbing in the "chimney" with a plug is very difficult and tense. It is necessary to clear the holds from ice and snow. The "chimney" ends with a rock ledge — a good spot for belay. Section P11–P12. A series of moderately difficult rock walls, complicated by ice on the rocks, lead to a steep, broken rock ridge, with dry rocks, and convenient belay spots. Many old pitons are found on the rocks. The rock ridge leads to the summit. The descent from the summit was made via the ascent route. Features of the passage:

Description of the Ascent to Peak "Mayakovsky" via the Northwest Wall (Upper Section)

A group from the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists consisting of:

• REZNIK V. P.
• SHKLYAR G. Z.
• SAVIN V. I.
• PETRASHKO G. A. Led by (signature) Alma-Ata 1962 Peak "Mayakovsky" is located in one of the ridges of the Trans-Ili Alatau range. It is situated in the cirque of the Tuyuk-Su glacier, from which the Malaya Almaatinka river originates.