Report on the ascent to the summit of Misses-Tau via the 5B category route by the sports group of the FASPb assembly

(Yu. Shevchenko's route, 1976)

Climbing passport

1. Climbing category: Technical
2. Climbing region: Central Caucasus, Mijirgi gorge
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: Misses-Tau peak 4427 via the right counterfort of the wall, combined, 5B category
4. Route characteristics:

• Route length 1550 m
• Height difference 980 m
• Average steepness of the main part 85°, total 70°

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Misses via the right spur on the Wall, category 5B, by the team from KAiS MEI from August 9, 2019, to August 13, 2019.

I. Climbing Report

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Leonkin Sergey Sergeevich, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Zadvorný Andrey Vladimirovich, 1st sports rank, Lazarev Nikolay Andreevich, 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full name of coach	Kutkin Sergey Anatolyevich

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Mizhirgi gorge, 2.5. From Kittlod pass to Gezivcek pass (from the north from the Main Caucasian Ridge).
2. Name of the peak: Misses-Tau, name of the route through the center of the Eastern wall.
3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, second ascent.
4. Nature of the route: combined
5. Height difference of the route: 980 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1492 m. Length of sections:

• V category of difficulty — 295 m.
• VI category of difficulty — 165 m. Average steepness:

Ascent made during the 1972 USSR Alpine Championship

1. Class of ascent — technically difficult.
2. Area of ascent — Bezengi, Mikhigri gorge.
3. Ascent route — Pushkin Peak via the North face (5000 m).
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 2000 m, average steepness — 60°, length of the most difficult sections — 980 m,
5. Number of pitons used: rock pitons — 112 pieces, ice pitons — 80 pieces, drilled pitons were not used.
6. Number of climbing hours — 70 hours only on the wall.
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

23 Ulluuuz via the E slope of the E ridge — 5A cat. diff. (V. Samokhvalov, A. Ryabukhin, Yu. Slezkin and O. Trubnikov — August 7, 1964). The path from the “Bezengi” alpine camp to the Severny Ulluuuz Glacier see in description 12. On the moraine of the glacier under the slopes of the Archimedes peak — a bivouac. From the bivouac (in ropes and crampons!) across the glacier and then upwards, 200–250 m to the right of the lower rocky spur. Across the bergschrund, ascend directly upwards 700–800 m along the ice-snow slope, then along a not very pronounced couloir, to the right of the second triangle of the rocky spur (protection! avalanches!) with an exit to the snow plateau of faults above the rocky triangular spur. From the plateau:

• ascend along the snowy slope through the bergschrund;
• further along the snow-ice slope 200–250 m upwards to the lower right rocky spur under the summit tower (avalanches!);
• on the right side of the spur (“live” stones! pitons!) 10–15 m upwards. From the top of the spur:
• 300–400-meter traverse left-upwards along the ice-snow slope under the rocks of the summit tower (pitons!);
• along the ice slope-couloir, ascend to the saddle of the East ridge of the Ulluuuz summit.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: rock.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Object of ascent: v. Ural V. via the SE wall.
4. Proposed route - 5B category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference - 550 m, length - 684 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity - 545 m. Average steepness of main sections is 70° (3600-4080), including 6 category of complexity at 87° (3600-3685); 85° (3715-3770).
6. Pitons hammered: rock 65, bolt 7, chocks 72, 3.
7. Team's man-hours - 20 and days - 2.

153. Shaurtu Severная — Glavnaya

(combined route, category III difficulty, fig. 14, 16, 17). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp (group of 2-4 people) to the summit of Shaurtu Severная is described in route 147. From Shaurtu Severная, descend via simple ridge rocks towards the Glavnaya summit. Overcome the big gendarme directly via steep, broken rocks of medium difficulty (piton belay). From the big gendarme, descend via steep rocks with a low gendarme onto a narrow, possibly snow-covered, saddle (cornice). From the saddle, traverse a big, wide gendarme via snow-covered simple, местами medium difficulty ridge rocks, and descend from it onto a saddle (cornice). From this saddle, traverse a small gendarme along the ridge and reach the col below

Shkhara (Main), North Edge, 5B cat. dif.

The initial bivouac can be organized either

1. on the "Austrian overnight stays", or
2. in a snowy hollow above the ice drops adjacent to the left of the rock outcrops of the North Edge (250–300 m above the base of the edge). From the "Austrian overnight stays" to the snowy hollow is 2 hours according to description 7. From the hollow, having overcome the randkluft, ascend 50 m up the snowy slope to a rocky ledge going from left to right along the eastern rock wall of the North Edge. The ledge 70–80 m leads to a snow-ice couloir ("tie"), dividing the lower wide part of the edge into two ridges - kant. The couloir is stone-dangerous, and therefore, having ascended along the border of the rocks of the left ridge to the rocky island in the narrow part of the couloir, one should cross the couloir and exit to the right ridge. Along the rocks of medium difficulty of the right ridge 150–200 m upwards under the overhanging rock wall. Here is the junction of the ridges of the lower part of the edge. Through the ice groove flowing into the couloir-"tie", exit to the 10 m wall and climb it to the overhanging rock. Further, the path goes along the clearly defined jagged ridge. Steep rocky sections and walls are bypassed on the snow on the right. After 150 m, on the left side, 3–5 m below the ridge, there is a platform for a tent. The subsequent movement goes along the snowy rocks of medium difficulty 80–100 m with an exit to the 50 m ice slope. After the rocky ascent on the gentle snow-ice ridge, resting against the wall of rusty rocks, it is possible to organize a bivouac. From the initial bivouac 10–12 hours walking.

Russian Alpine Championship

High-altitude technical class

Team from Voronezh Regional Public Organization "Alpinism Federation"

Ascent to Shkhara (Main) (5068 m) — via the ridge (H. Tomashek route), category 5B

2008

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi region, section number according to the classification table 2.5.
2. Ascent to Shkhara (Main) (5068 m) via the ridge (H. Tomashek route).
3. Category 5B.
4. Route type: combined.

Report on the second ascent by the team from the multifaceted mountaineering club "Freeline" in Essentuki

To the summit of Zub Sofruju

via the direttissima of the western wall, 6A category of difficulty Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2020 Addresses: 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, Oktyabrskaya St., 434, apt. 59 Popov M.L. 89282657130