23 Ulluuuz via the E slope of the E ridge — 5A cat. diff. (V. Samokhvalov, A. Ryabukhin, Yu. Slezkin and O. Trubnikov — August 7, 1964).

The path from the “Bezengi” alpine camp to the Severny Ulluuuz Glacier see in description 12. On the moraine of the glacier under the slopes of the Archimedes peak — a bivouac.

From the bivouac (in ropes and crampons!) across the glacier and then upwards, 200–250 m to the right of the lower rocky spur. Across the bergschrund, ascend directly upwards 700–800 m along the ice-snow slope, then along a not very pronounced couloir, to the right of the second triangle of the rocky spur (protection! avalanches!) with an exit to the snow plateau of faults above the rocky triangular spur.

From the plateau:

• ascend along the snowy slope through the bergschrund;
• further along the snow-ice slope 200–250 m upwards to the lower right rocky spur under the summit tower (avalanches!);
• on the right side of the spur (“live” stones! pitons!) 10–15 m upwards.

From the top of the spur:

• 300–400-meter traverse left-upwards along the ice-snow slope under the rocks of the summit tower (pitons!);
• along the ice slope-couloir, ascend to the saddle of the East ridge of the Ulluuuz summit.

From the saddle:

• upwards along the loose rocks of the ridge;
• then along the snow-rock couloir on the right side of the ridge, ascend under the East ascent of the summit tower;
• along simple rocks 8–12 m upwards along the couloir;
• further along the slabs, ascend to an inclined shelf-slab (many “live” stones on the wall!);
• along the shelf under the wall — traverse left, bypassing the overhanging stone from below;
• further along the chimney and simple rocks — ascend to the eastern tower of the summit;
• along the 40-meter sharp, destroyed rocky ridge — exit to the summit of Ulluuuz.

Under the summit on the scree of the southeast ridge — a bivouac.

From the initial bivouac — 20–24 hours.

Descent see in description 18 or 19.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 4 people.
2. Initial bivouac — moraine of the Severny Ulluuuz Glacier. 3 hours — departure time at 12:00 midnight.
3. Equipment: main rope — 2 × 40 m; expendable cordelette — 4 m; rock pitons — 6–8; ice screws — 7–9; rock hammer — 2; carabiners — 12–14; crampons — 4 pairs; tent — 1.
4. Bivouac locations — on the snow plateau of faults, on the ice slope under the summit tower, on the East ridge, under the summit on the Southeast slope and on the descent routes.
5. Departure on the route not earlier than the second half of summer (avalanche danger!)